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Holland & Sherry - Page 2

post #16 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by Film_Noir_Buff
A prior tailor of mine made a matching beret for me out of cashmere he made an overcoat for me with. I looked a bloody fool in it but it demonstrates the amazing uses for fabric.
Ha ha ha!!!! Would that make you Le Beauf de Film Noir?

I keeeeeed, I keeeeeed...
post #17 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by dah328
About 3 yards for a two-piece SB suit in 40R. Maybe a little bit more if it's a large pattern. There was lots of interest in my cloth. I should have asked for more $$.

3 1/2 yards is more accurate for a 40 regular.
post #18 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJman
Ha ha ha!!!! Would that make you Le Beauf de Film Noir?

I keeeeeed, I keeeeeed...

I did sort of resemble a French Rotty.

Actually it was a very nice beret...for me to poop on.
post #19 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by Film_Noir_Buff
Actually it was a very nice beret...for me to poop on.
You like it, the Westminster Dog Show?
post #20 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos
3 1/2 yards is more accurate for a 40 regular.

So how much would be safe for a 44-46 regular? 4.5?
post #21 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by new obsession
So how much would be safe for a 44-46 regular? 4.5?

Going to a tailor, 3 3/4 yards will work. MTM houses don't like to fool around and loose time when cutting and would be happier with 4 yards. 4.5 yards for an average 40R or 40S may yield a jacket & 2 trousers or at least you could add a vest. Depends on the cutter. I just cut a 3 piece suit, 44" chest from 4 yards. I've cut as large as a 56" chest with a 56" trouser waist from 4.5 yards. That's a big guy!
post #22 of 41
Chris, are you familiar with the Holland & Sherry Book 319 Viceroy flannels? I think they came out 3 or 4 years ago. If you know them, how would you rate them against the Lesser Golden Bale flannels or other higher-quality flannels from sources like Scabal (they have a Super 120s flannel that's nice)?
post #23 of 41
I have used the Viceroy for suits and trousers, but not recently. I will look the book over tomorrow. If I remember, it has a very soft hand.
Have you seen H&S Victory Flannels. Down side; It is about double the price of Viceroy. Super 140's with cashmere and silver mink. Upside; maybe the best looking flannel ever. Tailors extremely well. Looks incredible. Great patterns.

Lessers Golden Bale is always at the top, quality wise.

I use the Scabal flannel a lot. The 120's has a touch of cashmere and is a great value.

Harrisons has a nice flannel book. Beautiful colors and some nice pattered flannels. Perfect Prince of Wales plaid.
post #24 of 41
Chris, how do the Victory cloths wear? There's a killer pattern in the Victory Jackets book I've been thinking of for a long time, but I worry about fragility.
post #25 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJman
You like it, the Westminster Dog Show?


A lot of Bichons there
post #26 of 41
I have a suit from the Viceroy flannel book. Not bad. Not bad at all. I don't think it needs the 5% cashmere, but I don't think the cashmere really hurts it either. It does not hold a crease terribly well, but flannel rarely does. I do like the designs in that book, and prefer them to the Victory book.

For my money, Fox makes the best flannel, but it is not widely available, and the selections tend to be limited. My favorite widely available book is the Minnis. That is killer stuff. Harrison's flannel would be second. Lesser flannels are not so impressive by comparison -- one of Lesser's few failings. "Failing" may be too strong, but they could do better. Their worsted flannels are terrific, but the woolens are just OK.
post #27 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by whoopee
Chris, how do the Victory cloths wear? There's a killer pattern in the Victory Jackets book I've been thinking of for a long time, but I worry about fragility.

They wear very well. I have two suits in that cloth. They are not like real flannels. First, they are impervious to air circulation which makes them quite warm.Second, they have an urbane smoothness which places them squarely in a "Hip" category of flannel. The fabric is almost too smooth.

The Scabal Sapphire flannel is more like a real flannel look, even if it is also worsted, but it has no gloss to its finish, it is fine and still gives a sense of turgidity. This cloth is also warm but not as bad as either the H&S Victory flannel or the H. lesser golden bale flannel below.


The H. Lesser Lumbs Golden Bale worsted flannel wears like iron, retains its shape. It looks like actual flannel and possesses a decidely retro air about it. It is also hot. Thats really the problem with flannel though isnt it? It's insular.

All three cloths make up well as suits with no problems.
post #28 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by Film_Noir_Buff
A prior tailor of mine made a matching beret for me out of cashmere he made an overcoat for me with. I looked a bloody fool in it but it demonstrates the amazing uses for fabric.

Smokin'
post #29 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by whoopee
Chris, how do the Victory cloths wear? There's a killer pattern in the Victory Jackets book I've been thinking of for a long time, but I worry about fragility.

The Victory Jackets are great. At 12 oz they don't feel heavy or bulky. they will look good and wear well for a long time. Worth the investment.

What others may dislike about the Victory Flannels is what I like about them. I make clothes for clients in mainly two different locales, Chicago & Dallas. Clients in Texas who love flannels like the finish of the Victory cloth. It does not look heavy and holds its shape well. Better for travelling and packing. It has a contemporary look and feel with a touch of refinement. Personally, I like clothes with a modern look.
I can't say that these cloths wear any warmer than normal for these weights and cloth type. That is subjective.
To say that I like the finish of Victory Flannel is not to say I prefer it. I appreciate the difference in finish and the high quality. The solids in the back of the book look nice in dark colors but don't render as well in lighter colors. Cloth 77206 has a vintage diamond pattern that I am curious to see made up. Very unique. 772002, Navy chalk Stripe, and 772007, Charcoal Grey Chalk, are 2 favorites.

Fox appears to be good flannel, but not special. I will try them to know how they tailor.

I really love the Harrison's book F39. "Worsted and Woollen Flannel"
Two weights 11 & 15 oz. Broad range of color and pattern.

A good cloth comparison are the glen plaids. 39024 and 25 from Harrisons and 772024 and 25 from Holland & Sherry.
Harrisons has the beefy, cloudy, mottled look that, to me, defines a classic flannel look. That is the quintessential look of flannel. The H&S Victory cloth is a clean updated, contemporary version. I would wear them both. I appreciate the look of both. They each have their own appeal to the eye.

Harrisons 39036 is a grey and black mottled pattern that I made up in a 3 piece suit. Incredible suit. Maybe the best looking suit I've made from this book.
Have made odd jackets from 39037, black/grey and off white houndstooth which I would recommend to anyone who can handle the weight. (15 OZ)
39005 is a great shade of navy for a suit. Saw it made up and worn by a guest at Manton's book signing in NY, and have made it for myself.

The Scabal book is good but avoid the light weight. Too flimsy, no guts.

Viceroy Flannel is too soft. High maintenance to keep a crease in the trouser.

I don't have enough expierience with Minnis Flannels to comment.

As to the original question of this thread. Generaly speaking, Holland & Sherry light weight cloths hold up and tailor well, although I am not familiar with the book you refer to. How you wear and care for clothes will determine which cloth is best suited for you.
post #30 of 41
Thank you, Despos. Excellent post. I was looking at a lenght of the POW with blue over check from the Harrisons flannel book the other day. It is an impressive cloth. I would love to use it some day, but I am leery of the performance of woolen flannel; ie, how much they bag and lose shape, etc.
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