Originally Posted by whoopee
Chris, how do the Victory cloths wear? There's a killer pattern in the Victory Jackets book I've been thinking of for a long time, but I worry about fragility.
The Victory Jackets are great. At 12 oz they don't feel heavy or bulky. they will look good and wear well for a long time. Worth the investment.
What others may dislike about the Victory Flannels is what I like about them. I make clothes for clients in mainly two different locales, Chicago & Dallas. Clients in Texas who love flannels like the finish of the Victory cloth. It does not look heavy and holds its shape well. Better for travelling and packing. It has a contemporary look and feel with a touch of refinement. Personally, I like clothes with a modern look.
I can't say that these cloths wear any warmer than normal for these weights and cloth type. That is subjective.
To say that I like the finish of Victory Flannel is not to say I prefer it. I appreciate the difference in finish and the high quality. The solids in the back of the book look nice in dark colors but don't render as well in lighter colors. Cloth 77206 has a vintage diamond pattern that I am curious to see made up. Very unique. 772002, Navy chalk Stripe, and 772007, Charcoal Grey Chalk, are 2 favorites.
Fox appears to be good flannel, but not special. I will try them to know how they tailor.
I really love the Harrison's book F39. "Worsted and Woollen Flannel"
Two weights 11 & 15 oz. Broad range of color and pattern.
A good cloth comparison are the glen plaids. 39024 and 25 from Harrisons and 772024 and 25 from Holland & Sherry.
Harrisons has the beefy, cloudy, mottled look that, to me, defines a classic flannel look. That is the quintessential look of flannel. The H&S Victory cloth is a clean updated, contemporary version. I would wear them both. I appreciate the look of both. They each have their own appeal to the eye.
Harrisons 39036 is a grey and black mottled pattern that I made up in a 3 piece suit. Incredible suit. Maybe the best looking suit I've made from this book.
Have made odd jackets from 39037, black/grey and off white houndstooth which I would recommend to anyone who can handle the weight. (15 OZ)
39005 is a great shade of navy for a suit. Saw it made up and worn by a guest at Manton's book signing in NY, and have made it for myself.
The Scabal book is good but avoid the light weight. Too flimsy, no guts.
Viceroy Flannel is too soft. High maintenance to keep a crease in the trouser.
I don't have enough expierience with Minnis Flannels to comment.
As to the original question of this thread. Generaly speaking, Holland & Sherry light weight cloths hold up and tailor well, although I am not familiar with the book you refer to. How you wear and care for clothes will determine which cloth is best suited for you.