Monitaly triple-needle shirt. That's three times the stitches, three times the soul.
By Pete Anderson
Photos by Albert Thomas and Dan Chaparian
Even to people who pay attention to boutique men's clothing--maybe you're one of these people--Monitaly is Yuki Matsuda's "other" line. Yuki and his business, Meg Company, are getting a lot of attention for his meticulously crafted, referential shoes sold under the name Yuketen. (To read more about Yuketen and see photos of next fall's lineup, check out Styleforum's preview of Yuketen F/W2010; we also have an interview with Yuki where he shares some of his inspirations). But the disproportionate attention may not last long--where Yuketen tweaks classic shapes and themes for shoes, Monitaly does it for the rest of a dudes' wardrobe. Monitaly's Fall/Winter 2010 line has a limited number of pieces but the scope of their design is wide. At (capsule), Albert and I got a look at Monitaly's impressive outerwear as well as some trousers and tailored pieces.
The most immediate impression was made by the Riders Coat--a double-breasted wool coat cut something like a peacoat, but with caped shoulders and a zip chest pocket. Yuki said the cut comes from a 1930s German motorcycle jacket. That influence and the quirky details set the coat apart from the sea of peacoats out there, even in basic navy, grey, or black melton. A grey herringbone in U.K.-woven shetland wool takes it up a notch. But it's also available in colorways that showcase Yuki's idiosyncracies--primary color stripes on a white or brown ground, referencing the Hudson Bay blankets that have kept Canada warm for centuries. For those of us not raised in an L.L. Bean catalog, a white wool motorcycle jacket with crayola stripes might require some explanations to friends and relatives, but it's pretty to think we live in a world where that isn't true.
HBC stripes on white (left) and brown (right).
The piece also shows off Monitaly's attention to detail and small perks in its garments. The coat is lined in a khaki cotton duck or blue chambray, and snaps are leather-reinforced.
Fok tried out the raglan zipper jacket, which will be available in a red windowpane fabric straight off a pair of vintage Woolrich hunting pants. The subdued colorway and tough functionality are of course right in Fok's wheelhouse as a consumer--the red in this jacket is a real step outside the box for him.
Like Fok, this jacket is all business on the outside.
But the pocket linings lay bare its/his campy soul.
Yuketen will also be offering a packer-style coat for Fall/Winter 2010. Belted and with an off-kilter buttoning point that doubles the fabric where the coat closes, the coat seems like a wintry contender, even if next winter is as miserable as this one has been for us in the midatlantic.
Coat has also been done in the red windowpane. Looks good unbelted as well.
Lastly, the Yuketen mountain parka will likely be snapped up by the 1970s mountaineering 60/40 fans, although this one is done in 100% cotton duck. The saturated red will be easy to spot from a helicopter when you're lost in Central Park or the wilds of Bushwick.
Mino and the parka.
Check out an additional rear pocket while Mino checks you out.
Monitaly is doing some trad-ass sportcoats next fall. I liked the high buttoning point on the three button (roll to two) single-breasted blazer. The lapel is shaped rather than straight, exaggerating the lapel roll. Monitaly's best pieces seem to exaggerate the coolest details without approaching caricature. My favorite fabric may have been the battleship-heavy melton wool, but I tried it out myself in brown herringbone.
The other professors will be soooo jealous. The varied metal buttons make it feel like a repaired heirloom.
Self-fabric elbow patches.
The jackets are partially lined and all seams are taped. Monitaly's not kidding with the sub-slogan "tenacious for quality."
There's also a double breasted blazer in some of the same fabrics, with an almost Tautz-level peak lapel and the same mixed-up buttons and throat latch as the single-breasted jackets--unfortunately, we didn't manage to snap a photo.
Although I was most impressed by the outerwear and jackets, the shirts and trousers were a more than adequate supporting cast. The triple needle shirts have a bigger collar than we've seen from most "workwear" lines recently, and round, peaked chest pockets. They share their chambray and wool fabrics with the coat linings and sportcoats, respectively. Chambray-lined wool hunting pants are also done in the same herringbone and charcoal fabrics. You could put together a Monitaly suit that would be guaranteed Mister Mort bait.
The production piece will be lined in lighter chambray.
Zip pockets so you don't drop your shells. Or small game. Or prophylactics.
Opening Ceremony and the Garbstore currently stock Monitaly. We'll keep you updated with who will be carrying the Fall/Winter 2010 collection.