Clothes are worn in three dimensions, but the patterns are drawn, the cloth is cut - and then sewn - in two dimensions. In male clothing, three dimensionality is seen in the fit of the garment when worn. In addition, men’s dress wear has two “free-standing” three dimensional elements. One is the lapel roll on full-canvas suit coats and sport jackets. The other is the collar roll on button down shirts. Everyone knows of Flusser’s assertion that the button-down collar is the most casual of business shirts. I won’t argue that point, but if I’m wearing a great collar roll on my button-down shirt, and sportin’ a wonderful bloom to my jacket lapel, I feel I'm on top of the world!
So, this post is about collar roll and how designers, cutters, and seamstresses achieve collar roll. I’ll take four measurements of collar elements of six different makers of button down shirts. Those makers are:
Lands' End (glory days)
These are all from my closet and were purchased new by me. All are 16.5X34.
I will show pictures of the four measurements I’m taking, using a Mercer shirt. Every shirt will be measured the same way and I’ll provide the same set of measurements for each maker. Finally, I’ll show the differences and similarities of each collar roll via a picture of me in each of the above shirts.
Though I believe this is a fair comparison of the shirts of these makers on me, it does not resolve issues of different builds on different guys. If you are a) long-necked or b) shallow or bull chested, your own body measurements will produce a different look for these shirts than they do on me. YMMV!
Finally, I’ll be wearing a closed top button on each shirt and a a four-in-hand tie in each picture. When knowlegeable folks talk about collar roll on button-down shirt collars, they're ALWAYS talking about a fully buttoned shirt with a four-in-hand tie. The combinations of S curves, Bell Curves, and Arcs are a central part of the Ivy League Look.
I should have this up in the next three or four days.