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Cool Shoes, Paraphernalia & Desiderata - Part II - Page 779

post #11671 of 12774
Grendel, come home. We miss you!
post #11672 of 12774

 

Paying that much for someone else's bespoke sounds dumb

post #11673 of 12774
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefan88 View Post

Paying that much for someone else's bespoke sounds dumb

Do Berluti offer bespoke fitting? I would have thought they worked off standard lasts. I could be wrong though.
post #11674 of 12774
Quote:
Originally Posted by MalfordOfLondon View Post

Do Berluti offer bespoke fitting? I would have thought they worked off standard lasts. I could be wrong though.

Yes, but it hasn't really been a consumer friendly process. IIRC, they've either severely cut bespoke or eliminated it entirely in recent years.
post #11675 of 12774
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefan88 View Post

Paying that much for someone else's bespoke sounds dumb

As is the broguing on the TF. Never understood the appeal of broguing good exotic skins.
post #11676 of 12774
Quote:
Originally Posted by MalfordOfLondon View Post

Do Berluti offer bespoke fitting? I would have thought they worked off standard lasts. I could be wrong though.

Yes, they do complete bespoke orders according to Last magazine article, dating April 2012.

And if you look at the shoe trees, they look nothing like RTW quality.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedDevil10 View Post

Yes, but it hasn't really been a consumer friendly process. IIRC, they've either severely cut bespoke or eliminated it entirely in recent years.

Delos was seen in Japan just last month as the fitter of bespoke orders. So berluti bespoke still exists.
post #11677 of 12774
Quote:
Originally Posted by MalfordOfLondon View Post

Do Berluti offer bespoke fitting? I would have thought they worked off standard lasts. I could be wrong though.

Yes, they do complete bespoke orders according to Last magazine article, dating April 2012.

And if you look at the shoe trees, they look nothing like RTW quality.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedDevil10 View Post

Yes, but it hasn't really been a consumer friendly process. IIRC, they've either severely cut bespoke or eliminated it entirely in recent years.

Delos was seen in Japan just last month as the fitter of bespoke orders. So berluti bespoke still exists.
post #11678 of 12774
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefan88 View Post

Paying that much for someone else's bespoke sounds dumb

RTW gator boots could easily cost as much.
post #11679 of 12774
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

Delos was seen in Japan just last month as the fitter of bespoke orders. So berluti bespoke still exists.

 

Good to hear the program is still running...not that I plan to commission anything.

post #11680 of 12774

Enzo Bonafe gator boots as on the berlutis are around 1900 euros in Norway, as a special order. No bespoke fitting, but the rest is pretty much the same. (choice of design, colour, ...) I can understand the jump in price if bespoke for oneself, but buying someone elses bespoke (unless you´ve got identical feet) still sounds dumb

post #11681 of 12774
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

Delos was seen in Japan just last month as the fitter of bespoke orders. So berluti bespoke still exists.

Berluti has just re-designed and enlarged their London flagship store in Maddox Street. They have added the first floor ('second floor' for all you Americans) and basement to the previously ground-floor only store. I believe, it was the basement which is to be entirely 'bespoke only' for shoes and clothing, How much the suits and other clothing items are 'true bespoke', I don't know. I was told they will be made in Italy.

But Berluti still has a bespoke shoe workshop in or near their Rue Marbeuf head quarters in Paris. The London store has a number of bespoke samples on display. These samples look nothing - I am almost bound to say 'unfortunately' - like their ready-to-wear stuff. They are decorated and over-designed like a Christmas tree or a Fabergé egg. Yes, the craftsmanship is impeccable, but the taste is dubious. All elements of BCBG got lost and the look is loud and garish to appeal to a clientèle who wants to display 'expensive' for the world to see. Kind of Lattanzi by the power of three! I suppose, if you want to commission a bespoke pair, you might be able to calm their efforts down.

Over the years, I have regularly seen signs in the window of the London store that M, Patrice Rock will be attending at a certain date to take bespoke orders. I was told Rock is still Beluti's head shoemaker, not sure about Delos' position in the Berluti hierarchy. Nor do I know, if a customer can ask for Rock or Delos to attend them and see the order through to completion.
post #11682 of 12774
Informative information as ever, Bengal. Thanks very much.
post #11683 of 12774
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post


Berluti has just re-designed and enlarged their London flagship store in Maddox Street. They have added the first floor ('second floor' for all you Americans) and basement to the previously ground-floor only store. I believe, it was the basement which is to be entirely 'bespoke only' for shoes and clothing, How much the suits and other clothing items are 'true bespoke', I don't know. I was told they will be made in Italy.

But Berluti still has a bespoke shoe workshop in or near their Rue Marbeuf head quarters in Paris. The London store has a number of bespoke samples on display. These samples look nothing - I am almost bound to say 'unfortunately' - like their ready-to-wear stuff. They are decorated and over-designed like a Christmas tree or a Fabergé egg. Yes, the craftsmanship is impeccable, but the taste is dubious. All elements of BCBG got lost and the look is loud and garish to appeal to a clientèle who wants to display 'expensive' for the world to see. Kind of Lattanzi by the power of three! I suppose, if you want to commission a bespoke pair, you might be able to calm their efforts down.

Over the years, I have regularly seen signs in the window of the London store that M, Patrice Rock will be attending at a certain date to take bespoke orders. I was told Rock is still Beluti's head shoemaker, not sure about Delos' position in the Berluti hierarchy. Nor do I know, if a customer can ask for Rock or Delos to attend them and see the order through to completion.

 

The highlighted portion is not a fair description IMO.  All the garish and gaudy designs could be a demonstration of their capabilities.  It is, after all, a bespoke service with designs heavily influenced by client inputs. 

 

Maybe someone had experiences being rejected by Berluti for requesting a plain cap toe oxford design, due to reasons like "this is not our house style, go somewhere else".

 

The other master shoemaker (who also makes lasts) at Berluti is Jean-Michel Casalonga, who's also in his mid thirties and from what I know, a protege of Patrice Rock.

 

Not sure what Delos does, but maybe he's like Paul Wilson of JLP, working as a fitter?

post #11684 of 12774
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

All the garish and gaudy designs could be a demonstration of their capabilities.  It is, after all, a bespoke service with designs heavily influenced by client inputs. 

Of course it could be: One shoe with three rows of different Norwegian stitching could just show the different configuration that can be achieved with Norwegian stitching (just like a child's cross stitch sampler). But it could also be a concious effort to attract the "if you've got it. flaunt it" brigade. After all, Berluti did that trick with the pearl-encrusted slippers for the 1977 coronation of "Emperor" Jean-Bédel Bokassa, which at the time (maybe they still are) were the most expensive shoes ever made.

This is a Berluti shoe (I don't know if it's bespoke or was from the (now defunct) ready-to-wear Ligne Bottier of classic designs.



This shoe achieves an almost Zen-like tranquillity in it's perfectly-judged proportions and it's delicate use of colouring and comes about as close to perfection as it is humanly possible. Berluti has done it once, maybe they can do it again. But then........maybe they don't want to.

As the saying goes: "Where there is muck, there is brass!"
post #11685 of 12774
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

All elements of BCBG got lost and the look is loud and garish to appeal to a clientèle who wants to display 'expensive' for the world to see. Kind of Lattanzi by the power of three! I suppose, if you want to commission a bespoke pair, you might be able to calm their efforts down.

BCBG ...LOL! have not heard that for a while...sounds like they are designing for Russian oligarchs...
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post




This shoe achieves an almost Zen-like tranquillity in it's perfectly-judged proportions and it's delicate use of colouring and comes about as close to perfection as it is humanly possible. Berluti has done it once, maybe they can do it again. But then........maybe they don't want to.
Quote:

Zen like ...almost Shaker like in the simplicity and functionality of the design of the shoe IMO.
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