I have Diors/W+H/APC's/John Elliot and have had N&F/RRL/various repros. W+H (from the last 2 seasons since they re-did the denim program) is probably the best value in terms of a readily available jean as there are many stockists and often sales. Stay away from the bleach wash from the first season back as it was prone to blowouts. RRL raws are pretty nice and they have some interesting washes, but you're at the mercy of reseller availability - I don't think they're necessarily worth full retail. I have a pair of the newer black APC's and I have yet to experience the mythical 23423423423" stretch, but then again I didn't size down too wildly.
Here's how I sized everything:
Diors: 19cm in 29 and 30, but it's really dependent on the wash and MII vs MIJ, my last gray pair from WAYWT is at the tailor now
W+H: straight in 30, I have the 1 year wash I picked up on a whim at end of season sales when it first came out
APC: NS in 29, I have the newer black on black pair, I've been able to button all the way from day one (although they were a bit tight at first)
John Elliot: 29, nimbus wash, fit is similar to one of the MII Dior washes, it's probably one of my slimmest jeans right now (maybe I'm just self conscious), definitely a slim taper similar to PS/17.5cm, if I start squatting a bit heavier these will probably be a no-go
N&F: weird guy in 30
RRL: raw slim fits in 30x34
*edit* I've also owned Geller jeans but the top block was too lose with too extreme of a taper for me
Edited by cyc wid it - 2/22/13 at 12:14pm