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The WAYWT Discussion Thread - Page 5303

post #79531 of 94888
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

i think you are wrong. no jacket sleeve, afaik, is 100% straight. if the "elbow" of the jacket ends up sitting by your bicep, you will not be comfortable.

my point was that one of the biggest concerns with sleeve pitch is having a jacket sleeve that lies flat - which isn't as much of a concern with a jacket that's made of cotton and thus is constantly wrinkled anyway. obviously there's a risk of constricting your arm if you shorten the sleeve too much from the shoulder (which is limited by armhole constraints anyway), but I don't think the inch or so he needs is going to be a deal breaker. he shouldn't get the sleeve altered to a business appropriate length, but just so it doesn't cover his hand.
post #79532 of 94888
i hear, but you never know how that inch or so will play out. im just sayin its something to take into consideration, and mention to the tailor before you do anything, so you dont fuxxor up a perfectly good jacket.
post #79533 of 94888
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teger View Post

get em taken up from the shoulder?
i recently had to get the sleeves of a schneider jacket shortened - they had a working button, but because of the construction/thickness of the wool the tailor i use couldn't take it from the shoulder, so i paid like $75 to have the entire cuff recut. worth it.

better to recut the cuff than take up from the shoulder. Way too risky.
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

ok, while i do like this fit, even though i dont really quite "get" a lot of it, i only ask one thing explained.
the cuffs. i know it has been mentioned, but even the suggested amounts to be shortened would leave it quite long, at least from an MC perspective. i have not been in this thread very long, but i dont recall seeing any other SC sleeves that long.
so, i guess my question is, what is the SWD belief/groupthink/accepted practice/range about cuff length on SCs?
thanks.

There's not really an specific accepted practise, but IME casual jackets feel more natural when they end around the first knuckle of the thumb. That goes for leather jackets, streetwear blazers, and outerwear.

For more conceptual pieces, anything goes depending on how it's designed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

one note about shortening a sleeve from the shoulder. when a jacket is made, the extra length that is put in by the manufacturer to account for different arm lengths, is added at the end. even if the tailor can get the armhole right, it can really throw off the pitch of the sleeve in regards to the elbow.
#jusayin

Agreed.

Since it's a casual jacket, it's better to ask for a "cut job: - see pic:
Quote:
Originally Posted by MZhammer View Post



My tailor, TopShelf in Minneapolis, also offers the "cut job" which I elected to pursue when I bought a Zegna SC off here that was incorrectly measured and was 2" too long on working button holes (which were poorly done by the original owner too)

Only use this option as a last resort but on an SC its not the end of the world for an otherwise good jacket.
post #79534 of 94888
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teger View Post

my point was that one of the biggest concerns with sleeve pitch is having a jacket sleeve that lies flat - which isn't as much of a concern with a jacket that's made of cotton and thus is constantly wrinkled anyway. obviously there's a risk of constricting your arm if you shorten the sleeve too much from the shoulder (which is limited by armhole constraints anyway), but I don't think the inch or so he needs is going to be a deal breaker. he shouldn't get the sleeve altered to a business appropriate length, but just so it doesn't cover his hand.

honestly i've ruined streetwear blazers by taking them up just a couple of inches from the shoulder.

I'll always go for the cut job over taking them up from the shoulder from now on.
post #79535 of 94888
Some great fits in the last 24hrs - guess it's time to lower the standard...

Saturday:

Sat.jpg

Christy's
Wings & Horns
Uniqlo
Albam
Barker
post #79536 of 94888
I wish i can wear something like that when i'm in your age. MOK.
post #79537 of 94888

For once I am appreciating my monkey arms....

post #79538 of 94888
Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewgreg View Post

I wish i can wear something like that when i'm in your age. MOK.

I'm planning on growing old dis-gracefully...
post #79539 of 94888
you are doing a crap job so far. tongue.gif
post #79540 of 94888


Feel like this needs different shoes. Thoughts?
post #79541 of 94888
8174104690_f3cc236e9b.jpg

  • Henrik Vibskov
  • Acne x Snowdon
  • Patrik Ervell
  • Common Projects
post #79542 of 94888
Meh, I'm not sold on the cut job. I would think you'd run the risk of having abnormally wide sleeves at the cuff. Plus, the buttonholes could look off. I've had a linen jacket taken in from the shoulder since the sleeves were about 2" too long, but I haven't picked it up yet. We'll see if it worked out...
post #79543 of 94888
I think about reedo's RC cardigan immediately after I saw what M is wearing.



007 skyfall
post #79544 of 94888
Quote:
Originally Posted by zissou View Post

Meh, I'm not sold on the cut job. I would think you'd run the risk of having abnormally wide sleeves at the cuff. Plus, the buttonholes could look off. I've had a linen jacket taken in from the shoulder since the sleeves were about 2" too long, but I haven't picked it up yet. We'll see if it worked out...

why? You can easily narrow it.
post #79545 of 94888
hkPdJl.jpg
uniqlox3
apc
vandals
psd4sx26

please excuse plebe fit
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