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The WAYWT Discussion Thread - Page 4708  

post #70606 of 117666
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teger View Post

if my shorts are the vagina monologues, what are these?
iw1wkg.jpg
schindler's list?

ahahahahahahahaaa
post #70607 of 117666
Quote:
Originally Posted by johanm View Post


The fit on this is, on the whole, good. Some nits: the collar fits too loosely around the neck, the upper back is tight, and the sleeve pitch is slightly off, resulting in rippling around the tricep.
Stylistically, not my taste. Jacket a bit too long, button point a bit too low, lapels way too skinny and do not roll from the buttoning point, trousers not cuffed, and the contrast buttonholes are a facepalm.gif Also, I prefer a more relaxed shoulder construction.
It's odd that it took 7-8 fittings. Even Huntsman / Richard Anderson / Maurice Sedwell, known for the most fittings on the Row, do about 4-5. Most do 2-3. Anderson & Sheppard do 1-2.

 

The fit is actually good.  You can tell he made several personal adjustments, but that is fine and sort-of the point of custom made suits.  If it is true Bespoke (and done w/o a preexisting pattern) he will have all the pattern changes to reference to address everyone's critiques.

post #70608 of 117666
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Moo View Post

How Jewish? Jewish Jewish or just Jewish?

197

"Ya know, like Fiddler on The Roof, cast or audience?".
post #70609 of 117666
Quote:
Originally Posted by johanm View Post

I would note, for the sake of discussion, that cdhagg's suit is not miles away from this Raf one posted by impolyt:
480
The differences I observe are (i) tighter collar, (ii) slimmer trousers, (iii) slightly higher buttoning point, and (iv) it's worn by a Raf Simons runway model and not a maligned SF poster

Seriously? I see here a rather avant-guardist interpretation of the suit that is a crossover between lounge suite and cutaway coat. The jacket is probably 3-4" longer than typical, with fronts and quarters cut similarly to a cutaway coat, while the back doesnt seem to be long like tails. The whole line of the suit is extremely coherent to me (I won't take out the MS paint red lines but I see a lot of well aligned lines, including a perfectly symmetrical X from notch to quarters), while at the same time being quite unusual. That one certainly looks odd to me too, but not in a bad way. I quite like it, even though I couldn't see myself wearing it
post #70610 of 117666
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teger View Post

if my shorts are the vagina monologues, what are these?
iw1wkg.jpg
schindler's list?

i agree with gdl203

that black suit will be highly noticeable if wearing in office environment
post #70611 of 117666
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

Seriously? I see here a rather avant-guardist interpretation of the suit that is a crossover between lounge suite and cutaway coat. The jacket is probably 3-4" longer than typical, with fronts and quarters cut similarly to a cutaway coat, while the back doesnt seem to be long like tails. The whole line of the suit is extremely coherent to me (I won't take out the MS paint red lines but I see a lot of well aligned lines, including a perfectly symmetrical X from notch to quarters), while at the same time being quite unusual. That one certainly looks odd to me too, but not in a bad way. I quite like it, even though I couldn't see myself wearing it

Yeah, I think that's the correct interpretation of the length / cutaway styling of the Raf jacket. I was kind of mentally treating it like a normal lounge suit and discounting the extra length, focusing on the shoulders, chest, sleeves, etc.
post #70612 of 117666
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

I think between johanm and the self-critique, most of the fit points have been mentioned. The fit at the main points of the body isn't too bad really - there are a few diagonal and horizontal folds that indicates problems (prob a lower shoulder and upper back posture) that should certainly have been fix with 8 fittings (I still cannot believe this btw, never heard of this).

My point when i say that it's bad or that the uniqlo looks better is less about minutiae of fit and more about the overall look and proportions. Johanm calls it styling but, really, what is the point of a bespoke tailor if he doesn't have a good eye and cuts shoulders, lapels, length and all the lines to fit the specific customer and bring in a harmonious balance? How can he let him leave with skinny short lapels that don't jibe at all with the slightly extended padded shoulders and extra long sleeves? Even if the tailor accepts to cut such skinny lapels (which stand out), he should then bring the whole look together with coherent stylistic choices (e.g. narrow shoulders, cropped everything, a la TB). I look at the suit and it just strikes me as looking odd. Odd in a bad way, that's all, no hate. It is silly to call all these things merely stylistic preferences, these are all important choices that can make a garment look either good or bad - sure, one can prefer to look bad, but that doesn't change the fact that these stylistic choices are, in fact, not good.

Perhaps part of the problem that you've pointed out is that the tailor doesn't do all his own work. He has a shop of about 6 tailors that help him out, and the suit only cost 2k.

And actually, I did have a large say in the details of the suit. I dictated the lower buttoning point (can't stand the current high-button-cropped-jacket trend) and the extra room at the back, for instance.

Additionally, I'd like to add that these robopose pics aren't a very good representation. The suit looks better when I'm just looking at myself in a full-length mirror, and in candid photos taken by friends, for instance.
post #70613 of 117666
2K wow.gif

What's the fabric? Looks a bit like nylon in the pic, but hard to tell.
post #70614 of 117666
Quote:
Originally Posted by johanm View Post

You'd be surprised, even the world's most renowned bespoke tailors don't always nail those minute details:

http://thelondonlounge.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=8227

^ THESE monstrosities are what you get at Saville Row? Seriously? My suit fits much better than either of those three.

VLSI it's worsted wool.
post #70615 of 117666
Quote:
Originally Posted by CDHagg View Post

^ THESE monstrosities are what you get at Saville Row? Seriously? My suit fits much better than either of those three.
VLSI it's worsted wool.

I get the impression the guy ordering the suits is just oblivious.... you get what you ask for.
post #70616 of 117666
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

Seriously? I see here a rather avant-guardist interpretation of the suit that is a crossover between lounge suite and cutaway coat. The jacket is probably 3-4" longer than typical, with fronts and quarters cut similarly to a cutaway coat, while the back doesnt seem to be long like tails. The whole line of the suit is extremely coherent to me (I won't take out the MS paint red lines but I see a lot of well aligned lines, including a perfectly symmetrical X from notch to quarters), while at the same time being quite unusual. That one certainly looks odd to me too, but not in a bad way. I quite like it, even though I couldn't see myself wearing it

I really liked this look too, it's the opener for FW09 (the one with the neoprene boleros and Asics, and that show starts descending into variations from look 2, particularly that the trousers become more 'Raf' as the looks progress) - for most of the reasons you stated; long jacket length, the 'X' with the huge open quarters and that button stance. I agree it's not mild, I was using this in regards to this idea that YY would do in an office - I'd much rather wear something like this.
post #70617 of 117666
Quote:
Originally Posted by CDHagg View Post


Perhaps part of the problem that you've pointed out is that the tailor doesn't do all his own work. He has a shop of about 6 tailors that help him out, and the suit only cost 2k.
And actually, I did have a large say in the details of the suit. I dictated the lower buttoning point (can't stand the current high-button-cropped-jacket trend) and the extra room at the back, for instance.
Additionally, I'd like to add that these robopose pics aren't a very good representation. The suit looks better when I'm just looking at myself in a full-length mirror, and in candid photos taken by friends, for instance.


$2k is actually fairly inexpensive for a true Bespoke.  Generally, making the pattern alone, depending on who did it, can cost up to $1.5k.  Does the tailor still have the pattern or did he just measure you and then send out to have someone make the pant/jacket and then send back, measure you, and the alter?  That just seems really inexpensive for a real Bespoke designed suit.

post #70618 of 117666
Mooshortsphoto.jpg
post #70619 of 117666
a pattern for $1500 is pretty dear.

If I was paying $2,000 for a bespoke suit (which I'm unlikely to do, $2000 is kind of an ugly middle ground, between cheap and good enough Asian bespoke, and full-on old world bespoke, both of which usually turn out better than CDHagg's suit) - I'd be expecting a beautiful pattern, and very good fabric from a big name mill, current season book.
post #70620 of 117666
I might go commission a couple $400 bespokes this week actually, want to make a formal because we're having a kind of casual wedding dinner next month, and then I have mind on this navy chalk stripe bolt I saw in the shop. I don't think they'll be perfect but I'm nearing that point with my tailor, maybe 97%.
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