MR TOJ: principles and ethics aside, which jacket, be it julius, rick, ccp or whatever, would you improve on and maybe use as a template ....hypothetically speaking ?
All of those jackets are so focused in aesthetic, in pattern, in final product, changing them would be like painting a lemon green.
I've said this before somewhere else, but Julius leather jackets are nicer and built better than Rick Owens, but cost half as much. Both usually undergo some post-processing, but material for material, and build for build, Julius > Rick, MMM, everything except maybe something like Hermes or some old guard luxury brand.
The lambskin (the Julius 'ram' thing is an Engrish aberration of 'lamb', age of animal doesn't affect thickness of skin as far as I know) that Julius uses (at least in that jacket I showed, and I think kelvin's as well) is very thick.
That Julius jacket I posted up had something like 8 Riri zippers on it, of mixed executions and pulls (ie a custom order), those plus the leather (the cupro lining is cheap though) that Julius uses would probably exceed $200-250 or more in material cost alone, for a buyer like Julius, and then Japanese labor is pretty expensive. That is a lot of material cost for a garment. Even a nice tailored suit made from a brand name fabric mill would be similar in material cost. That's why both nice leather jackets and nice suits tend to hover around the $2000 point and go way up from there.
Rick jackets, from what I've seen, would probably amount to $100 of materials, some less, some more. The crazy gradient and post-processed stuff uses lower quality materials and more labor.
CCP uses a lot of horse and kangaroo and shit right? That stuff isn't cheap but it's not like he has to go on a safari and poach animals to get it, maybe $2-300 in material cost, and then whatever he pays himself or his people for their time to make it. Kangaroo isn't imported to my parts but it's commonly used in the garment industry (and is a meat industry castoff as you well know otter) so it's not particularly unobtainable nor is it prohibitively expensive. Good soccer shoes are made from kangaroo.
I have a hair on hide zebra skin on my floor right now... I could make someone a jacket from it.... for about $10,000
I know, the Julius looks better in pictures, but in real life, I need a slight bit of shoulder drop to balance me out. I'm too skinny to wear shit tightly.
Margiela has wide shoulders naturally (margiela much?) and the jacket tapers down a lot, it fits very snug in the body when zipped, with wide sleeves, classical biker jacket style. When unzipped, it all shifts to the back and tents over the back, much like a stiff perfecto or other rider's jacket would do.
Julius is softer lamb and is so tight that it sits flatter on the back even when unzipped. Silhouette-wise I prefer the former to the latter, as the tented cropped jacket over a tee and some slouchy slim jeans is my archetypal street look.
The Julius is supposed to be tight, not because everything is supposed to be tight, but along the lines of the Julius compressed jacket in conjunction with the inflated military pants look. A classical biker jacket, less so, IMO.
Owning both Julius lambskin and Mr. Olive cow skin jackets myself, I find myself agreeing with all of this. The Julius ultra soft leather lays flat on my back when unzipped, whereas the stiffer cow hide of my Mr. Olive jacket will tent outward on the sides and rear when worn unzipped.
When paired with too skinny/slim of pants, the Julius jacket makes me look so skinny it's spooky! But the Mr. Olive cow hide jacket tends to make me look far bigger than I am (when worn unzipped) due to the way it hangs on me. Note that making me look "far bigger" means I simply look "normal" in other people's minds.
Because of this I tend to feel more confident and comfortable when wearing the Mr. Olive cow hide jacket. The Julius jacket really needs to be combined with bulkier bottoms for it to feel right on a skinny guy. I always like how mine looks when combined with cargo pants incorporating bulky pockets and/or a larger top block.
It's a couple years old, when I wore Rick tees as a thermal layer. I got over that stage. I wore white MMM german armies with that all the time I think, I can't remember now. dark shoes don't suit me unless they're full on dress shoes.