Quote:C.C.I.A.A. NAPOLI 495876
Your garment was made by Sartoria Partenopea
Quote:I believe Eligo is two makers ago Andrew....I would also like to know who is the current maker, though.
"The brand Eligo Napoli is owned by none other than Vincenzo Attolini. He is the eldest son of Cesare Attolini and named after his grandfather, who by many is considered the originator of Neapolitan clothing.
He broke off several years ago from Massimilliano and Giuseppe, Cesare's other two sons, to start his own label. He is so proficient at producing high quality goods he has won the contract to start producing all of Luciano Barbera"s suits and coats."
Courtesy of Ian at The World's Finest
I've read this too, but was never able to reconcile it completely with the evidence... Some part of the story is missing. I say this because close examination and documentation of the detailing and interior labeling suits/jackets by Barbera, Sartorio (prior to that label being bought by Kiton) and Sartoria Attolini leave me no choice but to assume that they were all produced in the same facility, or at least in very close association with each other. I've never seen an Eligo coat in person, but pics of the interior labels in Ians auctions match exactly with the Barbera/Attolini and Sartorio coats.
Between Attolini and the most recent coats (at least some of which are Partenopea), there was at least one other maker - a small shop set up or used by Caraceni. I never did get definitive evidence of this, but the distinctive cut of those coats, and conversations with people in the industry point to it being true.
Quote:I recently saw an E-bay auction for a Barbera coat. The seller claimed that Attolini was the manufacturer as evidenced by an internal tag marked 'Grilux SpA', which was stated to be Attolini's distributor. My Barbera suit has this tag as well but I have no idea whether or not the seller is correct as to the manufacturer.
Grilux Spa is another name for/is owned by/is in close association with Barbera (I don't know the exact relationship) and you'll find it printed on almost all Barbera labels going backat least 15 years. It has nothing to do with the maker
It should be noted that all this is fairly irrelevant in terms of the actual quality of the coats and suits. The Barbera Sartoriale line has always been of the highest quality (imo the Partenopea jackets are probably the lowest quality in the history of the label which is saying something, as they are very very nice.) My opinion - Barbera is underrated in terms of construction quality, and their styling and fabric selection is the best in the industry. It would be a mistake to think of a Barbera garment as being only as good as the shop that tailored it. It is much more. Probably the only major reason to differentiate between the makers is that the cut has varied somewhat, as is to be expected.