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- topicClothingtagged by SYSTEM, 5/25/12
- categoryDenimtagged by SYSTEM, 5/25/12
- categoryJeanstagged by SYSTEM, 5/25/12
- topicKMW Kicking Mule Workshoptagged by SYSTEM, 5/25/12
- brandMomotarotagged by LA Guy, 10/15/13
- itemMomotaro 702 (15.7 oz, Deep Indigo)tagged by LA Guy, 10/15/13
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- topicSponsorstagged by LA Guy, 10/15/13
- topicSugar Canetagged by SYSTEM, 5/25/12
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What I Learned from Slim Denim
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Styleforum Top Pickspost #2252 of 258011/17/13 at 9:26pmpost #2253 of 258011/18/13 at 2:37ampost #2254 of 258011/18/13 at 9:30ampost #2255 of 258011/18/13 at 10:39ampost #2256 of 258011/18/13 at 2:57pm
Our friends Sandy & Emil Corsillo over at The Hill-Side have recently released a video that gives us a peak into the creation of one of their most unique fabrics: the Old Virginia "Modified Herringbone". Combined with a video they made last year showing the weaving process, they offer an amazing look into the process behind the product.
The first video shows us "Old Bob the Weaver" and his amazing 1939 Crompton & Knowles W3 shuttle loom. Bob's family has been weaving in rural Virginia since the 1870's. We follow the story of the yarn as it is woven while Bob demonstrates his expert knowledge of the intricate machine. A very cool insight into the production behind the accessories we carry!
The second, more recent video, follows Sandy and Emil's journey as they travel back to visit Bob at his home once again. Volvo lent them a car and film crew to make the trip, and although they make some detours, we get to see both the weaving of the fabric and the sewing of some ties. The Old Virginia fabric is one of the most unique and interesting we've ever carried, and these videos are definitely worth a look.post #2257 of 258011/20/13 at 2:43pm
Our friends at Big John recently sent us some amazing fade photos of their unique Faux Slub fabric. The fabric uses speckle dyed yarns, which are regular straight yarns that are dyed to leave the core of the yarn uneven. It looks clean and smooth when raw, but with it fades it gives an uneven appearance similar to that of slub yarn denim. This creates the kind of contrast fading vintage denim often has. The fact that the denim is woven at low tension emphasizes this effect. It is a brilliant mix of modern and heritage appearance. You can see the effect in action in the photos below!
The high contrast on this pair is an added bonus we never expected. You can see the uneven vertical fading along the whole denim that gives it the vintage look and shows the cool effect that the speckle dying gives.
The fabric has, as a whole, changed from deep natural indigo to a nostalgic vintage blue. The whiskers are great, but even more interesting is the uneven fading on the thigh of the fabric. Despite being a fabric smooth to the touch, it has created an incredible bumpy pattern.
The close up on the knee reveals the uneven fade in more detail. In addition to the amazing wrap-around honeycomb fades, we see the vertical lines coming down the fabric.
The back of the jean reveals some nice honeycombs and the wallet fade.
Another great example of the vertical, slub-like fading. You can see the impression of a wallet in the back pocket, and how the back pocket stitching begins to pop out as the indigo rubs away.
Finally, a close up on the back of the knee. Despite being a newer fabric, this pair has developed some astounding fades in a relatively short amount of time. We're very impressed with the first fades we've seen come out of Big John! The Faux Slub fabric is available in both fits that we carry.
Big John "Slim Tapered" Faux Slub Selvedge Denim. 100% cotton, made in Japan. Sizes 28-34, 36. $200. For more information and pictures, check it out on our online site here
Big John "Slim Straight" Faux Slub Selvedge Denim. 100% cotton, made in Japan. Sizes 28-34, 36. $200. For more information and pictures, check it out on our online site here.post #2258 of 258011/21/13 at 3:13pm
Here's some more from Tellason: we've fully restocked our inventory of denim! Tellason features both a 16.5oz and 14oz sanforized Cone Mills White Oak yellow line selvedge with white accents available in John Mellor, Gustave, and Ladbroke. The fabric has a dark indigo base, a smooth surface with a slight texture, the heavy weight, and it is custom made exclusively for Tellason. We have decided to pick up size 38 as well, now available for both fabrics in the John Graham Mellor and Ladbroke Grove fits.
Tellason "John Graham Mellor" slim straight 14.75oz Cone Mills White Oak selvedge in indigo. 100% cotton. Made in San Francisco, USA. Sizes 28-36, 38. $220. For more information on the Tellason John Graham Mellor 14.75oz White Oak, click here.
Tellason "John Graham Mellor" slim straight 16.5oz Cone Mills White Oak selvedge in indigo. 100% cotton. Made in San Francisco, USA. Sizes 28-36, 38. $220. For more information on the Tellason John Graham Mellor 16.5oz White Oak, click here.
Tellason "Ladbroke Grove" slim tapered 14.75oz Cone Mills White Oak selvedge in indigo. 100% cotton. Made in San Francisco, USA. Sizes 28-36, 38. $220. For more information on the Tellason Ladbroke Grove 14.75oz White Oak, click here.
Tellason "Ladbroke Grove" slim tapered 16.5oz Cone Mills White Oak selvedge in indigo. 100% cotton. Made in San Francisco, USA. Sizes 28-36. $220. For more information on the Tellason Ladbroke Grove 16.5oz White Oak, click here.
Tellason "Gustave" slim tapered + 14.75oz Cone Mills White Oak selvedge in indigo. 100% cotton. Made in San Francisco, USA. Sizes 28-36. $220. For more information on the Tellason Gustave 14.75oz White Oak, click here.
Tellason "Gustave" slim tapered + 16.5oz Cone Mills White Oak selvedge in indigo. 100% cotton. Made in San Francisco, USA. Sizes 28-36. $220. For more information on the Tellason Gustave 16.5oz White Oak, click here.post #2259 of 258011/22/13 at 3:05pm
Heres a second to our Big John fades: the KURO2 denim! The KURO2 is a 12oz sanforized selvedge made in Japan replica of a Cone Mills denim used in Big John's 1969 collection, "ROAD COLORS". Unlike regular black denim, the warp yarn is dyed indigo before it is dyed black in sulphur. They also use a special dye on the weft yarn so that the warp and weft fade together. Normally black denim can be stiff and uncomfortable, but these dying methods enable the fabric to be softer and more supple than conventional black denim.
The pictures Big John has sent us are from a pair that has been worn about three times a week for 8 months and washed once. The fabric remains black for a long while before beginning to fade.
The unison fading of the warp and weft can best be seen in this photo of the coin pocket. In a normal sulphur dyed weft the weft threads would remain black. Looking closely you can see the warp threads that peak above also fading white.
This shot of the patch and belt loop shows an unexpected characteristic of the yarn. The fabric was expected to become very soft quickly, but the fuzzy texture is an aspect we didn't foresee.
The back of the jeans show a simple wallet fade and some nice distress on the protruding parts of the seat.
The KURO2 denim is another unique fabric from Big John we've been really impressed with. Their combination of a strong denim history and creative, simple fabrics have made them one of our current favorites.
Big John "Slim Tapered" KURO2 12oz Selvedge Denim in Black/Indigo. 100% cotton, made in Japan. Sizes 28-34, 36. $200. For more information and pictures, check it out on our online site here.post #2260 of 258011/22/13 at 7:34pm
Well, it's been a year since I bought my first pair of Japanese denim. Japan Blue 0202.
I've worn them about 1-2 times per week, and after a year they've started to smell, with beer being spilt on them and other crap. It's time for their first wash.
I assume it is safe to follow the instructions on the label? Machine wash warm, inside out with detergent on a regular wash? Hang dry and stretch the inseam after they come out of the wash?post #2261 of 258011/22/13 at 7:37pmpost #2262 of 258011/22/13 at 8:00pmpost #2263 of 258011/22/13 at 9:02pmpost #2264 of 258011/23/13 at 1:57ampost #2265 of 258011/23/13 at 2:08am
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