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Wolverine 1000 Mile Boot Review - Page 371

post #5551 of 7013

People keep mentioning the same questions keep getting asked, so I figured it's not a bad time for an FAQ in this thread. 

 

Why shouldn't I buy this boot?

If you plan on using this as anything more than a dress boot, then there's likely better options for you. At $350 MSRP, it's not too far off from White's Boots and Nick's Boots, both of which have superior construction and higher quality materials. For example, Wolverine uses cheaper leatherboard for their insoles, an integral part of the shoe's construction, while White's and Nick's use thick leather insoles. A lot of folks spend $30+ on adding a rubber half-sole, putting the full price Wolverine 1K plain-toed boot at $380+, putting the boot very close to the price range of Nick's and White's. With that said, the boot is a steal if you can find it for around $75 off or more.

Quote:
Originally Posted by slide13 View Post
  Example of White's Boots (Click to show)
I currently have 4 pair of White's and there was a 5th pair I sold that were a little on the big side for me. 2 pair were custom ordered direct through White's, one pair custom ordered through Baker's and 2 pair I scored direct from White's off of Ebay. I absolutely love White's boots and their service is excellent. Every pair I ordered came in on time or earlier then expected and their boots never dissapoint. Here are my current White's:  L-R: Brown dress leather cap-toes w/ double leather sole Brown chromexcel swing lasted w single leather sole Roughout Farmer/Ranchers w/ mini-lug sole Roughout Smokejumpers (my winter boots, dubbed with couple coats of Obenauf's....looked just like the F/R to start with)

 

The downside is, you'll likely have to wait several weeks to get your boot. If this bothers you, go ahead and buy Wolverine at MSRP even. The remainder of this FAQ assumes that you are.

What size should I wear?

Buy it from Nordstrom, if you're unsure, get a few sizes, send back what doesn't fit. It's free returns. 

How should I treat my boots?

Brush lightly to remove dirt, condition with Lexol conditioner (everyone can agree on that). No need to condition frequently with CXL, buff with microfiber towel in between conditionings (brush lightly beforehand). 

Do you want to put protective wax on your boots? Is there nothing I can say to convince you otherwise? OK. Get Obenauf's LP, use a blow dryer to heat the container, if neccessary, not the fucking boots, and put it on the boots. Don't put Obenauf's LP on the sole or the inside of the boot. 

Shoe trees are a good idea. Woodlore is good, you can also get that at Nordstrom Rack for really fucking cheap. You don't need them, but they help.

My boots are roughout though, how do I treat that?

See this post.

I have a bad scuff on my boot, what do I do?

Try applying some conditioner and buffing with a microfiber towel.

I shit on my boots, how do I get the shit off?

Get as much of the shit off as you can with a soft towel. Toilet paper is particularly good at dealing with this problem. Apply saddle soap to the problem area (use as directed), condition the area. 

Is this normal?

No. Did you wear it outside? No? Return it.

I put Obenauf's LP on my boots here's a picture. Do you want to see?

No.

What's a good insole?

Search this thread. Some people like Superfeet. You're probably better off getting the appropriate sized boots or padded wool socks, instead. Wool will wick moisture away more effectively and help prevent blisters, especially in the summer.

I bought leather-soled 1Ks, but I really wanted a rubber sole boot, what's the best sole?

If you wanted a rubber sole boot, you should have bought one to begin with. Each time you resole the boot, it will shorten its life. Don't resole the boot until the original sole is worn out. Leather soled boots are more vulnerable to damage when wet, and so if you plan on walking quite a bit through very wet weather, you may want to consider having a cobbler add a Topy  or Topy-like sole to your boots.

Where can I get replacement laces?

I've had a bad experience with the stock laces, and Wolverine CS has suggested paying $17.99 for replacement ones (I'm sure you can get them to send you another pair for free if you really try), so I looked into other avenues: these aren't shit and Viberg makes the best waxed cotton laces I've handled.

I'm a woman, and I can't buy from Nordstrom, what do i do?

Buy it direct from Wolverine (call one of their stores), or look into White's, Nick's, or Dayton. You'll get a boot with better materials and construction, for a small amount more. If you're open to dress boots, look at C&J, Edward Green, or St. Crispin. 

Are there sales?

Yes. Look in the sales thread in this forum. 

Are these boots good for hiking?

No, you will fall and die. Buy hiking boots.


Edited by misterjuiceman - 2/5/14 at 10:18am
post #5552 of 7013
When in doubt use profanity.

FWIW Obenauf's application instructions for LP includes "Melt LP for easier application and/or use a hair dryer after application for faster and better penetration."
post #5553 of 7013
Quote:
Originally Posted by grundletaint View Post

There really should be a boot care thread to clear all the fucking bullshit out of this one.

No fucking kidding.

I'd like people to either identify their education background, cite the source(s), or disclose their related work experience when they start throwing out pH level, molecular composition, isotope, viscocity, etc so that we can decide how much weight we give to the information being shared.
post #5554 of 7013

Sooo I just bought a pair of Wolverine 1k in Brown.  They're coming in sometime next week.  In the meantime, I was wondering if you think it is necessary to apply any sore of treatment to my boots.  I live in Minneapolis, MN.  Currently there's like a foot of snow outside, but it usually gets cleaned up within a couple of days.  I bike to/from class and usually step on the muddy/snowy ground only ~5-10 minutes a day.  The only times when my shoes get dirty are when I'm walking around on the weekends to stores, bars, friends, etc.  

My current pair of shoes are Timberland Earthkeepers Concourse Buck Oxford.  I have not treated them at all, worn them throughout the winter the last 8 months, and haven't been particularly careful.  They've held up surprisingly well for $50 and are quite water-resistant (socks haven't gotten wet yet).  They get salt marks every week or so, but I just wipe them down and they seem to be fine.  I know that I will not be hiking or doing any rigorous outdoor work in my new boots.  Another thing of note is that I really like the brown color (vs. rust/cordovan) and don't want anything that alters the color (alternatively, I want to preserve the color).  So far, I've considered Obenauf's LP or Venetian Shoe Cream, but don't know if they're necessary or if there's better alternatives.  This was quite an investment for a student like myself and hope that they will last at least two or three years.  

 

All suggestions are welcome.  Thanks! :D

 

A

 

p.s. I dislike the glossy look associated with certain post-treatment boots. 

p.p.s. Should I change the soles?  Do I need shoe trees?  So many questions D:

 

 

edit: grammar.


Edited by xsacredlotus - 1/30/14 at 9:05pm
post #5555 of 7013
Have you read any of this thread? Regardless of how long your on snowy ground, you still should treeat your boots. Boot oil for sure, and it's up to you if you want to use lp or not.
post #5556 of 7013
Quote:
Originally Posted by gfloridafan93 View Post

Have you read any of this thread? Regardless of how long your on snowy ground, you still should treeat your boots. Boot oil for sure, and it's up to you if you want to use lp or not.

Yap.  Page 2 w/ Crane was useful.  The last 5-10 pages not so much.  Other sites like Reddit MFA suggest (images) that LP changes color.  Venetian oil seems popular, but I dunno how much extra water-resistance it'll add. Lexol is out there, So is not doing anything as the leather is already pretty water-resistant by itself.  dunno. 

post #5557 of 7013
I too was worried about changing the color, but really don't worry about it. I used obenaufs oil (which was said to darken even more than the lp), and there wasn't a significant color change. So really don't worry about it.
post #5558 of 7013
I've been having better results not soaking stuff in oil if I just get some on a clean rag or old sock/tee shirt and get oil in the rag first then apply from the rag.

Way easier to apply lighter, more even coats compared to by hand
post #5559 of 7013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pecan89 View Post

I've been having better results not soaking stuff in oil if I just get some on a clean rag or old sock/tee shirt and get oil in the rag first then apply from the rag.

Way easier to apply lighter, more even coats compared to by hand

Agreed
post #5560 of 7013

In my experience, Obenaufs boot oil doesn't darken nearly as much as LP. And frankly in those conditions I would just wipe down and brush after wearing and condition every once in a while, I think there's sufficient consensus to say that Bick 4, GlenKaren, and Lexol are all good conditioners that won't affect the colour too much and won't cause drying or damage. Again, in my experience, Obenaufs Boot Oil, coconut oil, and various other products are just fine. I don't think there's need to use Obenaufs or Sno-seal unless you're really worried about salt/water and not worried about preserving the original colour. CXL is oily and should perform fine with minimal care.

 

My two cents.

post #5561 of 7013

I compared my brown LP'd 1ks to new ones today and they looked pretty much the same, I think the color brightens up significantly after a while. The texture though isn't the same.

post #5562 of 7013
 
/end discussion on leather care, for fucks sakes
 
In there, the dude says he has +20 year old boots that he hunts with.
 
Some snips:
- Recommends heating boots with a hair dryer on high to apply LP.
- He says it is advisable to use water proofing products on boots if your traipsing through moist grass.
- Says to avoid SnoSeal, but endorses LP.
- Endorses VSC for casual wear.

 

The average bro buying W1K's or Red Wings from the mall won't ever touch/care-for their boots; they're buying them to emulate an outfit from a picture they saw of Ryan Gosling once. I severely doubt their boots won't last several years out of the box as is.

 

Anyway, this bickering bores me.

post #5563 of 7013
Quote:
Originally Posted by revrend View Post


I've seen him recommend Bick 4, so I think it'd be reasonable to assume that's what he's sending. There are only a handful of GlenKaren products and only three types. They all have similar stuff in them.


What evidence are you looking for? Coconut oil is primarily made up of medium chain, highly saturated triglycerides. The molecular geometry helps it penetrate leather extremely well and lends oxidative stability. On the flip side, it has low hydrolytic stability. Neither one of these kinds of rancidity should be a huge concern if applied correctly (in moderation, as with all other conditioners) and if the shoe is being worn with some regularity.

There are downsides to all natural oils. These conversations are almost always borderline bro science and anecdotes and fear of witchery when something new is mentioned. If you want anecdotes, look at horse tack forums. Plenty of people have been using coconut oil for a very long time. And as far as non-footwear leather goes, that's probably one of the better analogues for boots.

Since it's reasonable to assume he's sending Bick 4, which is a liquid conditioner, it can be reasonably assumed that the GK product is most likely a polish correct?

OK so you have given me oxidative and hydrolytic information which is in line with an applied chemistry technical white paper that I've read. Let's go further. Even though it resists breakdown from exposure to air the real problem is water. Whether it's by perspiration or just walking through wet grass coconut oil begins to breakdown or in other terms it goes rancid. Once this happens it becomes extremely prone to microbial rancidity which is the real problem child. The microbes that attack coconut oil produce a host of enzymes and organic acids. The most abundant acid is lactic acid. There is no way digestive enzymes and acids could possibly be good for finished leather. I'm sure this is at least something everyone can agree on.

In my opinion this is why I think coconut oil is so glaringly absent in the vast amount of leather care products that are available. In spite of it's good qualities it's just not suitable for real world applications. I would go further and say that as a standalone conditioner you are asking for trouble with this in the long term because once the microbial action begins adding more oil is just adding more food which means more enzymes and acids. There is no component to counter act the process. Eventually things will break down to the point where red rot will begin and once that happens there is no fix. The day is over.

IMO you guys should be telling people not to do this and steer them into a well known, proven product line.

Ugh horse tack solutions. I'm out in the country so a lot of the weird stuff isn't done around here. Lexol or Bicks is what's used. That being said I do see a lot of motor oil, grease, diesel fuel and paint thinner used on leather boots to "clean and condition" them. I must have a deer in the headlights look when someone does this because they tell me it works great and ask what's wrong. I tend to walk away shaking my head.
Edited by Crane's - 1/31/14 at 8:10am
post #5564 of 7013
Does anyone know if wolverine will release new styles and colors of 1000 miles this year?
post #5565 of 7013
Quote:
Originally Posted by gfloridafan93 View Post

Does anyone know if wolverine will release new styles and colors of 1000 miles this year?

Two new models will be available. They also cut quite a few boot models too.
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