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Wolverine 1000 Mile Boot Review - Page 334

post #4996 of 7016
Hey Crane's what is your policy on care for roughout cxl?

Other input also appreciated
post #4997 of 7016
http://www.brannock.com/cgi-bin/start.cgi/brannock/charts.html

Is this size chart legit? My feet measure around 9.75 inches, so according to that, I would need about a 7.5 boot size correct? The reason I am asking is because I ordered an 8 and they feel a little to big, but I don't want the 7.5 to be too small.
post #4998 of 7016
I have a pair of Alden Indy boots in Natural CXL (I'm still trying to make up my mind whether my next pair of W1K will be the rough out Morleys or rust CXL) and I will say that I love the neocork sole so much. It's the perfect balance between flexible (much more than putting a rubber half-sole on leather), thick, and just a bit grippier than leather in slippery conditions. Wore it in snow and ice a bunch this winter and while I won't say that it was like wearing a lug sole, it definitely was not the "you'll kill yourself" that leather or crepe soles can be. Also, it has the advantage of not getting pitted and having debris jam into it when wet, a problem I have with my butyl and oil soles. And, at least anecdotally, it can go several times longer than a leather sole before needing to be replaced.

The downside, from a longevity perspective, on the Indy's is that the heel it comes with wears down wayyyyy faster than the Vibram heels that come on Wolverines. So, after only 2-3 months of wearing my Indy's almost every day, they already are just about needing a reheeling. Other downsides: the CXL is notably thinner, but most people don't seem to have durability problems with the thinner CXL, though most people don't thrash their Indy's.

Actually, speaking of heels, does anyone know what model the Vibram heel is that comes with the W1K? On the pairs that I've worn, the heel has barely worn away at all, compared to other rubber heels I've worn. I want to make sure I tell my cobbler exactly which heel to put on, since it's definitely my favorite (and I don't really need any tread or commando grip on it).
post #4999 of 7016
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pecan89 View Post

Hey Crane's what is your policy on care for roughout cxl?

Other input also appreciated

Viberg recommends Venetian leather balm. Two custom outdoor/fire boot makers recommend you use Obenauf's products and apply them exactly the same way as smooth side out CXL. I tend to agree with this since CXL is CXL. It doesn't matter which side faces out. Now with that said if you worry about color and texture changes on smooth side out CXL due to conditioning rough out CXL is definitely not for you.
post #5000 of 7016
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercuryman76 View Post

This is Blackrock Leather 'n' rich and it seemed to work fairly well. The after photos are after one pass with the cleaner. 

 

I recently started using this stuff and really like it. Initially I got it to try out with leather goods I make, but liked the results so much that I have been using it on some of my boots and shoes. It really gives phenomenal results, especially on vegetable tanned leathers. I wish I could find an MSDS so I knew generally what else aside from carnauba is in it. But as far as mystery products go, this is one I recommend to others.

post #5001 of 7016
What kind of insoles are y'all using in these? I picked up some dr scholl's "work boot" but I'm not really a fan for reasons I can't quite put into words.
post #5002 of 7016
Quote:
Originally Posted by grundletaint View Post

What kind of insoles are y'all using in these? I picked up some dr scholl's "work boot" but I'm not really a fan for reasons I can't quite put into words.

A Wolverine gel insole.
post #5003 of 7016
Oh....well that would make sense! Thanks. Which style works in the Addison?
post #5004 of 7016

Viberg is now priced above Crockett and Jones. How is their quality control? Alden has atrocious quality control and uses worse leather than C&J.

post #5005 of 7016
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crane's View Post

They'll darken a bit but that settles down and goes pretty much away after a few days or so. Just don't overdo the oiling. Wipe them down with an oily rag, let them sit for a few minutes and then wipe off the excess. I do mine in sections so it's easier to get an even coat on them. You might see a spot or two that appears darker when you oil them the first few times. Those are dry spots and after a few treatments that evens out as well.

I applied a coat of oil and waited a few days and was about to apply LP when I noticed this. After the first treatment of oil I did notice a couple spots; nothing that would bother me, but wondering if I should apply another round of oil first or move onto the LP. Moving forward, what is the protocal of using oil vs LP?
post #5006 of 7016

 

Copped a pair of Montgomerys in black. Feels more comfortable than the original W1K. In terms of the leather, according to a Wolverine representative it's Horween leather, but I compared the leather with the original W1K, this feels more shiny and PVC-ish.

Anyway, what should I use for this boots? Is the Heavy Duty LP sufficient?

post #5007 of 7016
Quote:
Originally Posted by JTrent82 View Post
 

Woof.  Let's dial back the tension and put some of that work boot related wisdom to use.  What's up with the 1k boot in EEE?  Am I going to be swimming in it?  If I have to choose, as a Brannock 10E, will I have more luck in D's or EEE's?

 

I measure a 12E on the Brannock device, and I wear a 12D in Wolverine 1K (I have two pairs). I typically wear a moderately heavy sock (Icebreaker city or hiking socks), and I add an insole for arch support and a bit of cushioning. I can't imagine wearing dress socks with these boots. 

 

My toes don't come anywhere near the hitting the front of the boot - maybe an inch of clearance? Being able to wiggle my toes without my pinky toe being smashed is a beautiful thing. I regularly walk 5-10 miles on pavement, and occasionally trails, in these boots. 

post #5008 of 7016
Pro-method for getting some cheap W1K's right now through Nordstrom.

Basically, shoerepertoire.com is having a 40% off sale, but they have terrible inventory control and often awful customer support. But you can price match deals through Nordstrom. Most of the shoerepertoire.com stock is out, but the shoe I actually want, the Morley, is still in stock with plenty of sizes. So I got it for $260 with tax and shipping, which is $140 off what I could get from most out-of-state-free-shipping places, and still $80-100 cheaper than a certain place I could call up for a deal but might not have them in stock right now. Of course, lets see what quality of shoe I get... but if it sucks, or the fit sucks, they have a great return policy, and since there's a Nordstrom within driving distance I can do an exchange there.

Anyway, looking forward to these, I've been on the fence for this shoe for a while, and it was basically a waiting game to see if it popped up on a DOTD or somewhere else first (almost was on Haberdash for $200, but they had the 9 and the 10.5 only in stock, and were final sale...) I basically feel it's a more economical choice than the Vibergs ($700!!!!) and likely a better fit (and cheaper) than OSB. Hopefully I get a pair that doesn't have an overly burnished toe, since that's a bit silly looking, though I'm sure I'll beat the shit out of the toe soon enough anyway.

Edit: And haberdash has these for $200... just called Nordstrom up and they modified it to that price. So $220 from them (haberdash doesn't actually have them in my size, so it is slightly more expensive, but great deal).
Edited by wdahab - 1/17/14 at 4:33pm
post #5009 of 7016
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crane's View Post


They'll darken a bit but that settles down and goes pretty much away after a few days or so. Just don't overdo the oiling. Wipe them down with an oily rag, let them sit for a few minutes and then wipe off the excess. I do mine in sections so it's easier to get an even coat on them. You might see a spot or two that appears darker when you oil them the first few times. Those are dry spots and after a few treatments that evens out as well.

 

-So how often do you oil like this?

-Also, lets say I get it very dirty and want to clean off before oiling, how do you recommend cleaning?

-Lastly, why do you use Filson Oil (http://www.filson.com/products/boot-oil.55101.html) over the Wolverine recommended neatsfoot oil?

 

Context: I live in California with not much rain, and plan to wear these at least every other day.

post #5010 of 7016
Quote:
Originally Posted by malaysian View Post


Copped a pair of Montgomerys in black. Feels more comfortable than the original W1K. In terms of the leather, according to a Wolverine representative it's Horween leather, but I compared the leather with the original W1K, this feels more shiny and PVC-ish.
Anyway, what should I use for this boots? Is the Heavy Duty LP sufficient?

I have a pair of Monties and treat them the same way as my other 3 pairs of USA boots. The leather is not CXL that's for sure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wdahab View Post


I actually want, the Morley, is still in stock with plenty of sizes. So I got it for $260 with tax and shipping, which is $140 off what I could get from most out-of-state-free-shipping places, and still $80-100 cheaper than a certain place I could call up for a deal but might not have them in stock right now. Of course, lets see what quality of shoe I get... but if it sucks, or the fit sucks, they have a great return policy, and since there's a Nordstrom within driving distance I can do an exchange there.

Anyway, looking forward to these, I've been on the fence for this shoe for a while, and it was basically a waiting game to see if it popped up on a DOTD

The Morley is a good looking boot. Our rep wears them. I'm seriously considering getting a pair of the desert boots but I'm waiting to see if a nice wingtip shoe is in the Spring lineup.

Quote:
Originally Posted by backtoreality15 View Post

-So how often do you oil like this?
-Also, lets say I get it very dirty and want to clean off before oiling, how do you recommend cleaning?
-Lastly, why do you use Filson Oil (http://www.filson.com/products/boot-oil.55101.html) over the Wolverine recommended neatsfoot oil?

Context: I live in California with not much rain, and plan to wear these at least every other day.

I oil my boots whenever they feel dry or the leather starts getting stiff. That's how it's done and the frequency depends on you and what you do. If you treated your boots with the same frequency as me you would wreck them. Again it's based on your specific use and not what anyone else does. Now I do wade in water with these boots so once they are dry they get a thorough going over every single time I do that. Lexol cleaner or saddle soap is what I use for cleaning. Recently a fellow a bit up used a product on their tan boots and it did a great job cleaning them up. You might consider it as well. Wolverine does not recommend neatsfoot oil by the way. The reason why i use Filson boot oil is because it was specifically designed to treat full grain vegetable tanned leather. I also have an endless supply of it. If I didn't I would be using Obenauf's products exclusively.

Quote:
Originally Posted by marmot8 View Post

I applied a coat of oil and waited a few days and was about to apply LP when I noticed this. After the first treatment of oil I did notice a couple spots; nothing that would bother me, but wondering if I should apply another round of oil first or move onto the LP. Moving forward, what is the protocal of using oil vs LP?

Ignore it. It goes away after a few required treatments. Don't ever keep dumping oil on them to try to even out any initial spotting. Go ahead and LP them. Oil is your primary conditioner.. LP or snoseal is used to proof them and you might do that once a year. I tend to proof my boots twice a year. Once in late Fall and then again just before the Spring Missouri muck season begins.
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