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Wolverine 1000 Mile Boot Review - Page 312post #4666 of 762512/15/13 at 2:15ampost #4667 of 762512/15/13 at 2:43amQuote:
If the Goretex holes (which it does have and which can get plugged up with detergents and dirt) were larger than liquid water, then I would hazard to say it wouldn't be waterproof. Water vapor should be smaller than liquid water so you have an anomaly in your statement. A paradox if you will.post #4668 of 762512/15/13 at 6:57am
I just received my boots from Crane's (No. 8 color.)
Tried them on, made sure everything was 100%, two applications of Obenauf's boot oil and.....Beautiful.
Pardon the reflection, I wanted to show how the oil darkened the soles and heel. It was a nice benefit of applying the oil.
The boot oil slightly darkened the No. 8 color of the boots, but I think in a good way.
It was really nice pre-application but in my opinion the oil added something good.
I'll let the oil do it's thing for a few days and hit them with the Obenauf's LP I purchased.
Thanks Crane's! You guys are awesome!!post #4669 of 762512/15/13 at 7:09ampost #4670 of 762512/15/13 at 8:36amQuote:Originally Posted by Neognosis
Goretex breathes (SORT of) because it has holes in it that are larger than liquid water, but smaller than individual molecules of water vapor.
I'm open to learning more though, I'm not claiming any kind of expertise in this, just trying to remember high school chemistry and physics, and it just seems contrary to common sense to assume that a solid does not impede breathability to some extent when applied to another solid.Quote:Originally Posted by Spyder187
If the Goretex holes (which it does have and which can get plugged up with detergents and dirt) were larger than liquid water, then I would hazard to say it wouldn't be waterproof. Water vapor should be smaller than liquid water so you have an anomaly in your statement. A paradox if you will.
Water molecules (whether liquid or vapor) are always made up of two hydrogen atoms and one oxygen atom, separated by bond lengths of about 84 picometers (picometers are 1000x smaller than nanometers). These bonds do bend, stretch, and vibrate with temperature and radiation (like IR), but this difference would be transient and minimal in comparison to the size of Goretex pores, which range from 60-90 microns (roughly one-million times larger than a water molecule.post #4671 of 762512/15/13 at 9:29ampost #4672 of 762512/15/13 at 12:36pmpost #4673 of 762512/15/13 at 1:00pmQuote:Pics?Originally Posted by BostonHedonist
I'm starting to miss the original shade of my Rust 1ks. They have developed their own patina but a few years of Obenauff's and regular wear have darkened them considerably. At this point, they're so easily mistaken for brown.
Can anything be done? Maybe cordovan polish?post #4674 of 762512/15/13 at 1:31pmpost #4675 of 762512/15/13 at 4:02pmpost #4676 of 762512/15/13 at 5:14pmpost #4677 of 762512/15/13 at 5:17pmpost #4678 of 762512/15/13 at 7:40pmQuote:Originally Posted by nevereast Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)You sure they are rust?
And those look awfully dark for rusts when new...
It was late in the day using natural light for the "before pic," but yes, they're rust.
No way am I "flipping" them to some hipster. These boots have only just broken in!post #4679 of 762512/15/13 at 8:07pm
hey guys hows it going? Been looking at boots for awhile and finally bought a pair of the 1000 mile hartmann's in brown. Love the look and fit of the boot. Was just wondering what kind of products I should use on them to keep them looking great. They wont be wore much to work in as I paint cars and dont wanna run they're look. Any info will be greatly appreciated.post #4680 of 762512/15/13 at 9:57pmQuote:Originally Posted by Dtrickz
hey guys hows it going? Been looking at boots for awhile and finally bought a pair of the 1000 mile hartmann's in brown. Love the look and fit of the boot. Was just wondering what kind of products I should use on them to keep them looking great. They wont be wore much to work in as I paint cars and dont wanna run they're look. Any info will be greatly appreciated.
Before everyone just tells you to read 312 pages of threads, here's the quick summary based on my reading of the threads (yes, it too me awhile). I’m not an expert, and am just trying my best to summarize, so if anyone has corrections, please holler.
- Conditioning: Boot oil is highly recommended. Varying opinions but general consensus from all the threads is Obenauf's and Filson's boot oil are winners. Both will darken the leather. Lots of debate about Neatsfoot oil and whether it will eventually rot the boot stitching. Seems to be no consensus on the matter, but lots of people swear by it. If you go with Neatsfoot oil, make sure it's "pure" and not a compound. Whatever boot oil you use, 1 coat is minimum, many people do 2 coats. As mentioned, this will darken the leather so if you want to avoid that, then skip any of these products and the waterproofing ones. (Note, it will initially look darker at first, and after a few days, it will lighten up a bit but still be darker than before the oil application).
These are 2 alternatives to boot oil that seem to get mentioned:
Meltonian shoe cream -- comes in various colors so get the closest one to match you're actual boot color. Added advantage is that the coloring will help clean/fill in scuffs.
Venetian Shoe Cream (aka "VSC") -- I've read so many glowing recommendations of this and people universally seem to say that it won't darken your boots.
Lexol Conditioner -- this gets recommended as well, but from far fewer people. Doesn't mean it's not good, just that it doesn't seem to get as much love on the forums as the other options listed.
- Waterproofing: Further protection with intense waterproofing can be had through use of Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP (aka Obenauf's LP) or Sno-seal. Depending who you ask, you'll get different recommendations, but they all converge around these 2. There is debate on whether you need this at all if you aren't exposing your boots to the outdoors a lot (or water/snow). These will also darken the boots.
- Brush: Get yourself one or more horsehair brushes. If you're just using it to clean and buff non-colored washes, one brush should be OK. If you're using colors waxes/polishes, get one for each color to avoid any transfer.
- 2013-12-16: Added lexol conditioner as an option based on wdahab's recommendation.
Edited by tmchow - 12/16/13 at 10:27am
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