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Wolverine 1000 Mile Boot Review - Page 288

post #4306 of 6682
Quote:
Originally Posted by michaeljohnr View Post
 

Who knew?  The moral is to try these on before purchasing.  I would have purchased the 10's and sent them back if I went with the standard half size down.

I'm in the same boat as you - I measure an 11B on the Brannock device and wear a size 11 in most shoes. I went in to try the 1Ks on and a 10.5 didn't fit me at all - I had to size down to the 10.

post #4307 of 6682
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSizzle View Post

It's definitely possible to get the whole boot to shine like the toe box, but that would only work as a display. Once the leather flexes, that high shine will disappear as the wax cracks away. I believe that's why that high shine is usually reserved for the toe box.

Some tips:

http://a-butler-for-all-occasions.co.uk/Shiny_Shoes.php

http://a-butler-for-all-occasions.co.uk/The_Butlers_Tips.php
post #4308 of 6682

 

If you notice, all of his shoes are shown without any articulation. If you read his guide, even he says that you will have to brush a lot of polish out of the natural creases to prevent cracking. So, as I said, it's somewhat unrealistic to bring the entire boot to that level of polish, and doing so on a work boot would seem strange to me.

 

Now, if Cranes jut wanted the picture for the sake of photography or for advertising, I'd think it could be fun. Whoever takes it up is going to be putting in a lot of time though.

post #4309 of 6682
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSizzle View Post


Now, if Cranes jut wanted the picture for the sake of photography or for advertising, I'd think it could be fun. Whoever takes it up is going to be putting in a lot of time though.

Cranes is busting Mario's chops. LOL!
post #4310 of 6682
Just ordered a pair of Cordovan No. 8 from Crane's.

Very much looking forward to their arrival.
post #4311 of 6682
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSizzle View Post

If you notice, all of his shoes are shown without any articulation. If you read his guide, even he says that you will have to brush a lot of polish out of the natural creases to prevent cracking. So, as I said, it's somewhat unrealistic to bring the entire boot to that level of polish, and doing so on a work boot would seem strange to me.

Now, if Cranes jut wanted the picture for the sake of photography or for advertising, I'd think it could be fun. Whoever takes it up is going to be putting in a lot of time though.

Many hours of work. Wolverine 1K leather is also way too soft for all over bulling. Parade boots are usually going to be a heavier leather, less oiled and stuffed full of beeswax. The soles are also going to be treble leather and hobnailed to aid with reduced flex. Work boots are going to be better treated with oil/preservative and the occasional polish (for colour rather than shine).
post #4312 of 6682
Anyone switch up the laces on their 1K's? Thinking of putting some red laces on my Brown 1K's, wanted to know if anyone has pics of their own this way. Gracias.
post #4313 of 6682
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spencer View Post

Anyone switch up the laces on their 1K's? Thinking of putting some red laces on my Brown 1K's, wanted to know if anyone has pics of their own this way. Gracias.

I put a pair of leather viberg laces in my black captoe 1ks, i'll upload pics when i get home from the university today if i can remember 

 

edit: remembered

 


Edited by karanimal - 11/18/13 at 7:04pm
post #4314 of 6682
Quote:
Originally Posted by karanimal View Post

I put a pair of leather viberg laces in my black captoe 1ks, i'll upload pics when i get home from the university today if i can remember 

edit: remembered



Looks good!
post #4315 of 6682

It's that time of year again, winter waterproofing/conditioning. I've gone ahead and streamlined Crane's Method in this post I made for easy reference. I'll post the content also below:

~~~~~

First, a shout-out to what I refer to as "Crane's Method" for life-proofing Wolverine 1,000 Mile Boots. That post changed the way I care for boots. But user @Crane's is more country and I am more city. So I would like to present his method adapted for urban dwellers looking to keep their boots strong and waterproofed while developing an well-worn patina -- and without having to spend all night at it. 

 

But it is still time consuming. I like to do this full process once or twice a year with smaller cleanings and buffing sessions in between.

 

Here were my Rust 1Ks on unboxing day:

 

 

Ah that new boot color. But it never lasts. Here were my boots yesterday, two years later. Nicely worn in and in need of some love.

 

 

1) Prep - Start off by unlacing your boots and prepping the table at minimum you will need:

  • Obenauf's Heavy Duty Leather Preserve (LP). Used by firefighters, it contains leather care oils suspended in beeswax and propolis. I don't touch silicone leather care products except for gloved-tanned leather, where it just feels right.
  • Shoe brush specifically for use on your LP-saturated footwear
  • Hair dryer
  • A PH Balanced leather cleaner/conditioner, I use Lexol
  • Rags

​Bonus points for:

  • Silicone shoe edger
  • Saphir Renovateur
  • Edge dressing 

 

 

2) Cleaning - Wipe shoes with a damp rag then go over it with Lexol. If it's been a while, use a good amount. Really scrub at any dark crud spots. But I don't ever like to clean my casual boots of 100%. A little imperfection is good for the patina

 

They like it when you scrub them behind the eyelets.
 

 

 

Use the ridged end of an edger to get in around the welt.

 

 

Then give your boots a brushing for good measure. Smooth out any scuffs in the uppers and pour a drink before proceeding.

 

3) Heat your LP - Microwave 15 seconds to start then heat to a paste with hair dryer.

 

 

 

4) Cover the uppers and sole edges with a thin but substantial LP. Use the flat edge of the shoe edger to scoop up some LP and work it into the welts.

 

 

 

 

5) Heating & Saturation (approx. 12 minutes per boot) - fire up your hair dryer and melt the LP into your boot's pores and seams from the top down. The LP will tend to run into the places it's needed most and most of the excess will melt its way into the welt, the most critical point for waterproofing. When most of the work is done, get in close and circle the dryer around any wet spots.  

 

 

 

 

 

On the sides, I like to angle the dryer diagonally down from the back. You'll have to hold the in each position for a while moving it slightly up and down. This is the 

 

 

Make sure to spend a little time heating the LP around the welt. It likes to hide in there in little white deposits.

 

 

6) Wipe each boot down with a rag while still warm from the dryer to remove excess LP. If you let it cool too much it gets much more difficult to wipe off.

 

 

 

6) Brush like hell - preferably with a larger brush than shown here. I spend about 2-3 minutes on each side.

 

 

Finished boots, in not-so-great lighting. Go ahead and touch up the edges with some edge dressing if needed. I use Allen Edmonds in Chili.

 

 

Bonus step - it may be redundant at this point. But leather footwear never feels fully conditioned without that Saphir smell.

 

 

 

 

My bots this morning. Yeah, I could have spent more time brushing and they'd shine more. But I like my 1Ks more matte. 

 

post #4316 of 6682
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spencer View Post

Anyone switch up the laces on their 1K's? Thinking of putting some red laces on my Brown 1K's, wanted to know if anyone has pics of their own this way. Gracias.

 

 

Here you go. These are the laces I went with: http://benjos.com/store/products/rosso-scudiera-2/

post #4317 of 6682
Quote:
Originally Posted by mg2380 View Post

 

 

Here you go. These are the laces I went with: http://benjos.com/store/products/rosso-scudiera-2/

 



I like that!
post #4318 of 6682
Quote:
Originally Posted by BostonHedonist View Post
 

 

Nice gloves, princess.

post #4319 of 6682
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarioImpemba View Post
 

 

Nice gloves, princess.

 

Because I'm supposed to enjoy washing beeswax off my hands...

 

But seriously, I got a box of latex gloves last time I cleaned my motorcycle's carburetor filters. Now I use them for everything. But I wish they came with coconut moisturizer inside instead of powder...

post #4320 of 6682
Quote:
Originally Posted by BostonHedonist View Post

Because I'm supposed to enjoy washing beeswax off my hands...

But seriously, I got a box of latex gloves last time I cleaned my motorcycle's carburetor filters. Now I use them for everything. But I wish they came with coconut moisturizer inside instead of powder...
That powder'll fuck your hands up so bad you'll have to put beeswax on them! biggrin.gif
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