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Wolverine 1000 Mile Boot Review - Page 282

post #4216 of 7013
Quote:
Originally Posted by wdahab View Post


I went with the 9.5E on the modified last. The 9D W1K are too short (big-toe bump) which was the real issue. The width wasn't terrible, just combined with the short length, and I think I could have done okay with a 9.5 or a 10, had I known.

 

Are your Modifieds Indy boots?  Any pics?

post #4217 of 7013
Quote:
Originally Posted by linafelt View Post

Are your Modifieds Indy boots?  Any pics?

Yup they are. There are a couple aesthetic differences between the TruBalance and Modified Indy, especially in the stitching. The narrower heel of the Modified last is just so much more comfortable and realistic (though very similar to the W1K and Allen Edmonds heels, for the most part). Pics over on the modified last thread: here.
post #4218 of 7013
Quote:
Originally Posted by wdahab View Post


Yup they are. There are a couple aesthetic differences between the TruBalance and Modified Indy, especially in the stitching. The narrower heel of the Modified last is just so much more comfortable and realistic (though very similar to the W1K and Allen Edmonds heels, for the most part). Pics over on the modified last thread: here.


Thanks!

post #4219 of 7013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Meezus View Post


What's minimal care?  No issues with water damage?
Great looking boots by the way.

As far as the Obenauf's Oil + LP combo, these are the posts that worry me:

Those aren't rif's boots. They are mine. Water damage? I wade in lakes, rivers and streams with these boots for hours at a time on a regular basis. There is no water damage. That, once again, is because I maintain them in accordance with how I use them.

As far as the leather getting darker is concerned get over it already. The lighter colors darken quicker and much more dramatically period. It is what this type of leather does like it or not. As far as I'm concerned be my guest and don't treat them. Your boots are going to darken anyway. There will be no protection from stains, water, mud, snow, beer or dog shit. You can also expect the life span of the boot to be dramatically decreased as well. The leather will dry out, start to crack and then split. You won't have them long enough to worry about dry rot but hey who cares right? It's all about keeping the color the same! If that's what you want put them in a damn glass case in a controlled environment out of the sun and never wear them.

My approach to leather care has always been pragmatic, My reward is leather goods that look good, are in good usable shape and some of them are older than most of the people who post here. These aren't jeans, you don't size down 2 sizes and they don't fade.
post #4220 of 7013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crane's View Post

Those aren't rif's boots. They are mine. Water damage? I wade in lakes, rivers and streams with these boots for hours at a time on a regular basis. There is no water damage. That, once again, is because I maintain them in accordance with how I use them.

As far as the leather getting darker is concerned get over it already. The lighter colors darken quicker and much more dramatically period. It is what this type of leather does like it or not. As far as I'm concerned be my guest and don't treat them. Your boots are going to darken anyway. There will be no protection from stains, water, mud, snow, beer or dog shit. You can also expect the life span of the boot to be dramatically decreased as well. The leather will dry out, start to crack and then split. You won't have them long enough to worry about dry rot but hey who cares right? It's all about keeping the color the same! If that's what you want put them in a damn glass case in a controlled environment out of the sun and never wear them.

My approach to leather care has always been pragmatic, My reward is leather goods that look good, are in good usable shape and some of them are older than most of the people who post here. These aren't jeans, you don't size down 2 sizes and they don't fade.

Your boots must have a fragrant aroma!
post #4221 of 7013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Willin View Post

Your boots must have a fragrant aroma!

They don't. When I get home I wash them off with a hose and let them dry out on the deck in the shade. If they stink I throw them in a bucket of water with some Dawn dish washing soap. After soaking for an hour or two they get rinsed and allowed to dry. Then I retreat them with boot oil and go. Do you actually believe that back in the day anyone babied full grain leather?
post #4222 of 7013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crane's View Post

As far as the leather getting darker is concerned get over it already.

 

Seriously. Good God...

 

Or buy corrected grain; problem solved!

post #4223 of 7013
Mario, you still recommend Lexol for your conditioning right? Have you used it on any Natural CXL at all?

Also, while the heavier boot oils are great for the kind of use that requires it, I've found Obenauf's oil makes natural CXL turn to a dull muddy color, which is just plain ugly.
post #4224 of 7013
Quote:
Originally Posted by wdahab View Post

Mario, you still recommend Lexol for your conditioning right? Have you used it on any Natural CXL at all?

Also, while the heavier boot oils are great for the kind of use that requires it, I've found Obenauf's oil makes natural CXL turn to a dull muddy color, which is just plain ugly.

 

Yep, I use Lexol for everything mostly because:

 

1. It's readily available at local stores.

2. DFWII endorses it.

3. I'm happy with the results.

 

I've never owned anything Natty-CXL, so can't say. (Despite the temptation of your Trench-Boots FS, in my size, I promised myself my next boots will be White's.)

 

One important note, Lexol should be applied to a rag first, then wiped on; I've found squirting it directly on leather will stain it temporarily.

 

My backpack didn't darken or change-tone with HD LP, but it's dark to begin with...

 

post #4225 of 7013
I did indeed use Lexol on my Indy Boots this evening. They came out a very lovely golden color, very similar to the shade that I've seen Natty CXL darken to normally. LP doesn't result in the ugly color, in fact I like the LP color. I haven't decided whether I'm going to LP them, they really really needed oiling so it will have to be at least a week before I put LP on them if at all. It's Obenauf's Oil that gives the really muddy, ugly shade, not the LP. I mean, lets be honest, I probably will, since it's coming on snow and rain season. Interestingly, I've seen a people say that CXL shouldn't have wax-based treatments, because its a waxless leather. This includes Saphir, who says use oils on oil based leathers, and wax on wax based leathers, and don't mix. Probably not meant for people like Crane's, but an interesting debatable point.

I've actually only seen one pair of *truly* worn in Indy Boots, here on reddit. Crane's would approve I think, though perhaps not of his choice of mink oil for protection. Better than nothing, and damn if he didn't wear those boots the fuck in.

Oh, and the trench boots sold already, so you're off the hook. Like I said, good boots really hold their value well.
post #4226 of 7013

I received the Kiwi Cordovan wax and the horse hair brush today. Went a bit crazy with wax.

 

 

I used hair dryer to melt the wax and applied several coat on the right foot boot. Not much darkening was observed.

 

After dried I brush the boots in light long strokes. It was an easy shine.

 

From the side.

 

Under the afternoon sun.

post #4227 of 7013
Quote:
Originally Posted by wdahab View Post

I did indeed use Lexol on my Indy Boots this evening. They came out a very lovely golden color, very similar to the shade that I've seen Natty CXL darken to normally. LP doesn't result in the ugly color, in fact I like the LP color. I haven't decided whether I'm going to LP them, they really really needed oiling so it will have to be at least a week before I put LP on them if at all. It's Obenauf's Oil that gives the really muddy, ugly shade, not the LP. I mean, lets be honest, I probably will, since it's coming on snow and rain season. Interestingly, I've seen a people say that CXL shouldn't have wax-based treatments, because its a waxless leather. This includes Saphir, who says use oils on oil based leathers, and wax on wax based leathers, and don't mix. Probably not meant for people like Crane's, but an interesting debatable point.

I've actually only seen one pair of *truly* worn in Indy Boots, here on reddit. Crane's would approve I think, though perhaps not of his choice of mink oil for protection. Better than nothing, and damn if he didn't wear those boots the fuck in.

Oh, and the trench boots sold already, so you're off the hook. Like I said, good boots really hold their value well.

CXL types of leather are not waxless. Beeswax is one of the components of the hot stuff mix that's used in the tanning process. Horween describes the feeling of the leather as waxy not oily even though they do apply neatsfoot oil to the finished leather. We've discussed the problems of neatsfoot oil before but it's worth repeating. Real neatsfoot oil is not easy to find. Most of the stuff these days is made from lard or lard and things like mineral oil. It isn't the real deal. Lard which can rot and petroleum products that can dissolve stitching? No thanks. The same problems exist with mink oil.

Some of this "advice" that goes around tends to breakdown under a modicum of scrutiny.

Since most of the boot oils tend to be clear or or a light shade of yellow no color is being added to the leather. What is being seen is what the leather looks like when wet. If you don't believe me get the leather wet with water and see for yourself. Completely water soaked leather will dry in a day or three. In a matter of hours the surface may dry enough that your boots lighten back up like nothing has happened. Oil doesn't "dry" in a day or three. It takes weeks and perhaps months of use before the leather lightens back up. The other problem that I know about is you better have cleaned the leather thoroughly before you oil or waterproof them. If you don't you will drive that nice fine grey or black dirt deep into the leather.

I constantly hear or read about all kinds of supposed issues with leather goods. Like a great many things most of the trouble stems from things like shitty good sounding advice, the person isn't using or applying a product correctly. or the person just outright refuses to take care of what they have for whatever reason.

If you tell me that pouring motor oil, naptha and kerosene on your boots and lighting them on fire is good for them then you better have something to show me to prove it. Otherwise I'm not listening.
post #4228 of 7013
Heh, misread the tannage list, read the Chromepack line, not the Chromexcel line. It is indeed "waxy" vs "oily"
post #4229 of 7013
Quote:
Originally Posted by wdahab View Post

Heh, misread the tannage list, read the Chromepack line, not the Chromexcel line. It is indeed "waxy" vs "oily"

Yeah it's enough to drive you crazy sometimes. I tend to group them differently. Most of the leather we're talking about is vegetable tanned in whole or in part. A liquid conditioner for this type of leather is an essential for keeping the leather alive. We have a long list from lighter stuff like Lexol up to the heavier stuff like Filson, Obenauf and Chamberlains. Most of the heavier oils do have beeswax in them as a component. It's a leather lubricant and gives the leather some hydrophobic properties as well. If I remember right beeswax also has antbacterial and antifungal properties so it helps keep the leather from rotting.

I'm thinking some of what you mentioned above is nothing more than a convenient "solution" to mitigate the so called discoloring phenomena. IMO it's nothing more than a convenient scapegoat.
post #4230 of 7013

Why are Montana Pitch Blend products never mentioned?

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