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Wolverine 1000 Mile Boot Review - Page 274

post #4096 of 6892
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joker007 View Post

@ Crane's: Your 1K boot with the "cracked leather" shown on the Picture you attached . which colour is it? Rust or Brown?

Reg

Chris

They're brown. Since then I did a writeup on how to clean them. Instead of oiling them as usual I decided to wax them up to show how well they can look after 7 or 8 months worth of snow mud and water. I used a little #8 cream wax. Now they're a pair of rust or cordovan 1Ks. LOL.

post #4097 of 6892
The first how to is up. We got about 8 more in the works.

Waterproofing your 1000 Mile boot.
post #4098 of 6892
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crane's View Post

The first how to is up. We got about 8 more in the works.

Waterproofing your 1000 Mile boot.

I look forward to this series but I believe you should preface your guide by stating that waterproofing your boots can darken the color. I seem to remember this when I was researching buying my rust 1k's. I didn't want to darken them so I have never waterproofed them.

My request for the next entry is to explain your process for basic polishing care without the waterproofing? Thanks again!
post #4099 of 6892
I have the resident expert working on a how to of waxing these things.
post #4100 of 6892
djr2YpV.jpg

Got them today. Didn't find much on these whole researching. Will do mini review soon in this thread for ppl searching

@crane's you sure about beeswax on this kinda leather?
Edited by nevereast - 10/25/13 at 1:36pm
post #4101 of 6892
Quote:
Originally Posted by Willin View Post

I look forward to this series but I believe you should preface your guide by stating that waterproofing your boots can darken the color. I seem to remember this when I was researching buying my rust 1k's. I didn't want to darken them so I have never waterproofed them.

My request for the next entry is to explain your process for basic polishing care without the waterproofing? Thanks again!
Out of the box:
LpY1aO3.jpg

A few months later with 2 coats of obenaufs LP the crane's method. Darkened a lot during application but this is probably within 25 mins. I wouldn't day the color changes much. Lack of natural light makes a bigger difference in these pics
SZY8KvB.jpg
post #4102 of 6892
Quote:
Originally Posted by Willin View Post

I look forward to this series but I believe you should preface your guide by stating that waterproofing your boots can darken the color. I seem to remember this when I was researching buying my rust 1k's. I didn't want to darken them so I have never waterproofed them.

My request for the next entry is to explain your process for basic polishing care without the waterproofing? Thanks again!

Additionally you should supply convenient links on where we can buy the necessary items like Obenauf's, etc!
post #4103 of 6892

I have only worn my 1k Miles (2nds) twice, and the stitching connecting the tongue to the boot is starting to come off from the inside. Would this issue adversely affect the life of these boots? I still have time to send them back to the seller for a refund (no exchange though) if needed. The left picture shows the issue at hand, and the right picture shows what the stitching normally looks like.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

.

post #4104 of 6892
Quote:
Originally Posted by nevereast View Post

djr2YpV.jpg

Got them today. Didn't find much on these whole researching. Will do mini review soon in this thread for ppl searching

@crane's you sure about beeswax on this kinda leather?

Austen, brown predator leather correct?
post #4105 of 6892

 

I just inherited these Brown 1Ks from a buddy of mine. I don't believe they have ever been oiled or waterproofed. What steps do I need to take in order to restore them? I have a pair of Rust W1k and I am familiar with Cranes Method of oiling and waterproofing. Should I take a brush and try to knock this dirt off and then oil them? I saw up above that Crane used some #8 cream to rejuvenate his. Could anybody give me a little help on what I should do with these?

 

EDIT: Some more pics

post #4106 of 6892
Saddle soap those first. Get as much of the crud as possible off of them. Then apply a light coat of boot oil. Let them sit for a few days and apply another light coat. After a few more days flex the leather a bit to loosen it up a bit. Using a hair dryer to warm up the leather some will help get the oil to penetrate deep. While you're at it apply some oil to the inside surfaces of the boot as well. If those boots are as dry as I think they are you want to take your time with them before you actually wear them. It certainly wouldn't hurt to use LP or Sno-Seal on those before you wear them too.
post #4107 of 6892
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crane's View Post

Austen, brown predator leather correct?
That's what it said online

The box came with a tab that said "aniline chromexcel"
post #4108 of 6892

Yeah..he let these get in rough condition. We both got a pair at the same time and I tried to warn him to oil and WP them! So this is about a year of wear doing neither and not cleaning that much either. Thanks Crane! I will post pics here in a few days after I baby them up!

post #4109 of 6892

Come to find out that my buddy did Oil them when he first bought them with some Obes. They weren't as stiff as the picture made them out to be. However, they were very dusty and grimy. The pictures above are after I brushed them and cleaned them with some saddle soap. I could already tell a difference and see some life spark into them! Have a huge dent in the toe box but I am not too worried about it..gives it a little bit of character! I am going to apply a little coat of Obe's Leather Oil here in a bit.

 

 

 

This is after I applied the Leather Oil. I took a hair dryer to them to help the leather soak up those oils and will let them sit over night as well. Depending on what they look and feel like tomorrow I might do another coat of oil or go straight ahead with some LP. 

 

Crane what is #8 Shoe Wax? I would love to get the same results you have there! Those boots have some character man!

Edited by AmericanLion - 10/25/13 at 11:24pm
post #4110 of 6892
Quote:
Originally Posted by nevereast View Post

That's what it said online

The box came with a tab that said "aniline chromexcel"

It seems like that chromexcel tag ends up in boxes that it shouldn't be in. With that said both types are chrome tanned with a heavy vegetable retannage. Predator has an additional step of being tumbled. In any case both leathers are finished off with vegetable tanning and are a smooth full grain leather. So yes LP or Sno-Seal is what's used to waterproof them. Chromexcel, predator, dublin, bridle, and shell are all examples of full grain leather that's either vegetable tanned or finished by a vegetable retannage. You condition and waterproof all of them the same way.
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