Wolverine 1000 Mile Boot Review - Page 173

Does anyone reccomend/use insoles with these boots?

^ I used to use a thin leather insole like the ones found in Ecco shoes, but prefer to wear a nicely cushioned Smartwool light hiker wool sock.

I wear insoles in my courtlands, but its because I have plantar fasciaitis. I also have wide feet and they don't offer EEE sizing, so I had to move up a 1/2 size. The insoles took up the slack from sizing up.

One of my soles lasted 6 months on my Wolverine Rockfords, the other one had hardly any wear.  I put JR soles on, and have had no problems since.  The original sole certainly isn't to the same standards as my Aldens which last at least two years.

 

Someone else on the forum was mentioning they were having trouble with tiny pebbles imbedding themselves into the sole.  I had that problem originally as well. Also not a problem I've had since replacing with JR or with any of my alden/allan edmonds/florsheims.

Received Rust 1k Miles from Crane's today. Great boots, going to start treating them with Obenauf's.

 

Just to add my data point on sizing, I went with 14D. Wearing them with some cotton athletic socks, I can fit two fingers behind my left heel if I jam my foot forward. I like my boots to fit like this, they don't feel too big. On a Brannock device my left foot measures 13.5C, right foot 13C. I once tried on size 13 Red Wing Beckman boots but they were too small. I haven't actually tried on a 13 in Wolverines, but I think I'm going to stick with 14.

 

 

I also currently wear:
13 in Clarks Desert Boots, but were fairly painful to stretch out

14D in Allen Edmonds Bayfield

14D in AE Malvern

13C in AE 5 last (with thinner dress socks)

 

It's my understanding that going down a full size is a difference of about 1" in length, correct? If that's true, my Clarks are only 3/16" shorter in length, and I can't imagine wearing boots much shorter than them. My AE Bayfield are about the same length as the Wolverines. Going down to a 13 in the Wolverines would be too short.

It's about a third of an inch for every full size difference ie. a size 10 is 1/3 of an inch longer than a size 9.

Hmmm...I may have to exchange these. Will sleep on it.

 

Wearing all American today.

Just got some 1000 miles in rust... and man do they look exceptional! Took 'em out for a spin tonight and was surprised how comfortable they are out of the box!

I know this has probably been asked thousands of times.. but is there anything I need to do to this boot other than condition it? I live in Nebraska so it snows and rains quite a bit.. but it's not like I jump in snow piles or puddles all the time.

Basically I encourage the worn rugged boot look.. but I also want the boot to last.

Also.. recommendations on products to use.

i just used huberd's shoe oil on mine. worked great. http://www.amazon.com/Huberds-Shoe-Oil-8oz/dp/B000PSBTNE

Where is your shirt from?

I dig it.

I could use some advice. I'm a 22 year old college senior and interested in a high quality casual boot. The 1000 Mile collection would be ideal, but I simply can't afford it. Can anyone recommend boots of similar style and tolerable build quality around the $200 range? Thanks!

Edit: Also, since I don't have very deep pockets, if they were to get scuffed or damaged I might lose my mind. They're like driving a Lamborghini in my mind. I'm afraid to even drive it.
Edited by CaptainHammer - 1/2/13 at 11:55pm

 

The Crane's Method of SnoSeal-ing: http://www.styleforum.net/t/163864/wolverine-1000-mile-boot-review/100_100#post_3732089

 

I use the oven to bake on lowest setting (150-170 F) for 8-10 minutes to warm the leather, as opposed to using a hair-dryer like above.

 

Follow-Up with occasional boot-oil or leather conditioner of your choice. Some examples:

 

- Filson Boot Oil

- Montana Pitch Blend

- Venetian Shoe Cream

- Neatsfoot Oil

- Obenauf's

- Lexol

 

 

This info really needs to be a 1st-post sticky, lol.

 

 

 

Thanks! Pendleton. FYI, their made-in-US shirts are much, much better than their imported.

 

 

You can get 1K classics under $300 pretty easily, and well worth the extra saving over $200-boots. Wolverine 1K's are one of the cheapest ways to get into Chromexcel leather, which is used on +$500 Alden's, White's, et al.

 

I like the looks of these, but have no experience with them: http://www.jcrew.com/mens_category/shoes/ruggedboots/PRDOVR~54388/54388.jsp

http://www.amazon.com/Chippewa-Mens-Rugged-Handcrafted-Lace-Up/dp/B0036VN958/ref=pd_sbs_shoe_3

 

Alternatively, I've seen Thorogood mentioned before:

http://www.amazon.com/Thorogood-Mens-Vinegar-Horsehide-Leather/dp/B006XGGC8E/ref=pd_sbs_shoe_15

http://www.amazon.com/Thorogood-Mens-Boerum-Horsehide-Leather/dp/B006XGG8OC/ref=pd_sbs_shoe_4

 

Nothing else is worth mention/consideration IMO.

i was under the impression that you are supposed to oil the boots first before you sno-seal. though i cant remember the reason. on a side note, now that i treated with boot oil, im having trouble getting a shine.

As Mario pointed out, the Chippewa boot is a nice one you can find fairly cheap. I'm using mine for winter footwear. See the posts in this thread if interested: http://www.styleforum.net/t/219242/chippewa-boots#post_6008391

The alternative I'd choose would to just save up ~$75 and buy yourself a pair of Wolverine 1ks.