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Wolverine 1000 Mile Boot Review - Page 146

post #2176 of 6648

So my 12Ds came in last night, and much to my relief they FIT !!!!.  Shoe was nice and comfortable, a tab bit long, but my foot was snug.

 

I cant wait to start wearing them, im going to try to pickup some Sno Seal on the way home.

 

Just wanted to ask, as these shoes came with the Wolverine Shoe Care kit, should i use that LP and cleaner, or get something else ?

 

These are my first real boots that i want to take care of, the redwings ive just kinda worn, but i might as well seal them.

 

I have gone thru most of the posts in this thread, and it seems like ppl oil them W1k first and then snoseal them, is this correct ? and which oil should i use.

 

Thanks for the help, and big thanks to Crane, his pics sealed the deal on these shoes for me.
 

post #2177 of 6648
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crane's View Post


Nope, not in men's sizes at least.

 

damn it..

 


 
post #2178 of 6648
Hey I want to see pics of the complete care kit you received.

Oil first, snoseal or LP a few days later. Filson boot oil is what I use and recommend. It contains essential oils that are used in the vegetable tanning process and as far as I know nothing else. The Wolverine oil has pine tar in it which may or may not be good for leather in the long run. I have it and use it when I'm out of Filson oil and so far my only complaint is it's sticky.
post #2179 of 6648

This is not my pic, but its exactly what i got.

 

Ok time to find the filson oil locally.  If not i will be calling your store.  I havent even worn the 1ks yet, and im already thinking about getting another pair soon.

post #2180 of 6648
Interesting, it looks like the same stuff as what's in the care kit that comes in the waxed cotton banker's bag. The brush is different but other than that it's the same. I'm going to have to get some of these in too. They should be much cheaper than the 1K luggage version. Now just so everyone knows this kit will work just fine if you don't go out and do the stupid stuff that I do.
post #2181 of 6648

I agree, its a nice kit.  Im just not sure its on par for a Canadian fall/winter weather.

 

So ill try to grab some filson oil, i recall you mentioning that Mink oil isnt good, as thats what the sales person was telling me to put on them.
 

post #2182 of 6648
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moridin View Post

I agree, its a nice kit.  Im just not sure its on par for a Canadian fall/winter weather.

So ill try to grab some filson oil, i recall you mentioning that Mink oil isnt good, as thats what the sales person was telling me to put on them.

 

If it's real mink oil it's animal fat and it can rot. If it's not the real deal it's a blend of stuff and contains petroleum products. Both are really bad for leather.
post #2183 of 6648
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crane's View Post


If it's real mink oil it's animal fat and it can rot. If it's not the real deal it's a blend of stuff and contains petroleum products. Both are really bad for leather.

 

My bottle of filson boot oil says it "contains petroleum distillates."  Did I get the wrong stuff?

post #2184 of 6648
I'm coming up on my 3rd Winter wearing the 1000 Mile Addison boot and I've got to say they're my favorite piece of footwear. They definitely run about 1/2 size large, but I just used that extra space to throw a Dr. Shcholl's work boot insole in for comfort. I'll highly recommend.
post #2185 of 6648
Quote:
Originally Posted by digga View Post

 

My bottle of filson boot oil says it "contains petroleum distillates."  Did I get the wrong stuff?

My bottles say the same thing! Didn't Crane say that "petroleum products" were bad?

post #2186 of 6648
It has silicone in it which is a petroleum product. It's a water proofer (a poor one but all you can use on suede) and it's not going to kill the leather. What you don't want is solvents or volatile aromatics.
post #2187 of 6648
Since we're talking chemicals here's a few things you don't want to do. Keep in mind I've seen some of this in person.

WD40 is a great lubricant and it's really good at repelling water. It's lousy on boots. It can eat the glue, stitching and in some cases rubber. It also reeks. Paint thinner is an awesome cleaner and degreaser but use it on your boots and it will dry the leather, eat glue, dissolve finishes, melt some stitching and it eats rubber for lunch. Clean your boots with boot cleaner not paint thinner. I've seen people use brake cleaner too and that's even worse. Motor oil, mineral oil, gun oil are great lubricants for some things but not for leather. Alcohol and acetone is used in a lot of wax stripper/finish stripper products for shoes. That's all fine and dandy as long as you remember that both will dry out leather like a mad demon and if you get crazy with the stuff it can eat the glue, rubber and in some cases stitching. forget to properly condition the leather after stripping and it won't last long at all. Some soaps are really nasty too and I've seen some of that used to clean boots. Yeah it does a great job and then the leather just falls apart down the road. The reason being it's so alkaline and in some cases the stuff has really nasty degreasing agents in it that dissolve just about anything it touches as well.

You get the idea. It almost always starts with hey that does such a great job on X I think I'll use it on my boots kind of thing. Yeah and mercury at one time was considered to be a great cure all too. Got a cold? I have some mercury! Not.

Now the two most common petroleum products you'll run across in shoe/boot products is silicone and an aromatic like butane that's used as a propellent. Silicone is a great dry lubricant and it's somewhat hydrophobic when it comes to leather. The commonly used suede protectors are pretty much just spray silicone. It keeps the leather fibers lubricated but does nothing to keep them supple. It's better than nothing and pretty much all that you can do with suede. A lot of your general purpose all in one cleaner, conditioners for footwear have silicone in it. Again it keeps leather somewhat resistant to water and it's good for keeping dirt from sticking hard to the leather fibers. There may be some other petroleum based products in these compounds as well. Some would be used as emulsifiers and so on and won't be detrimental as long as the product is used correctly. That by the way is whole different problem in and of itself.

Now you know why the whole catchall statement of stay away from petroleum products and footwear comes from.
post #2188 of 6648

700

 

Krause boot review.

 

First let me tell you the reasons I have been a fan of the US made 1000 Mile boot series. The 1000 Mile boots are simple in design, very well made and one of the most light weight boots around. And the break in time is nil. What I never liked, as most of you know, was CXL leather. Well if you are the same mind the Krause Dublin leather boot is the boot for you. I have had experience with Dublin leather through the Allen Edmonds line. It is not much different than standard calfskin. A little more waxy, it creases the same as calf, is less porous than CXL and shines up great. The enclose picture does not do justice to the deep luster and variation of the oxblood color of these boots. BTW - I also do not care for flat laces hence I replaced them with round laces.

post #2189 of 6648

So if I'm a size 8D in the Allen Edmonds Leeds (1-511 last), should I go a half size down in the Addison boot?  I'd like to wear it with medium to thick socks.

 

Also, any places with a deal on Wolverines today?

post #2190 of 6648
So Wolverine was kind enough to exchange my boots that were a different size and I received the replacements today. I'm a little wary of the boots though. First, the stitching is strange. From an aerial view, you can see that the left boot's stitching isn't nicely rounded (I can deal with that) and that the stitching on the right isn't white. It's been colored as if some edge dressing were applied to the boot and some got on the stitching. There also seems to be less of the sole past the upper. That's also shown in the second picture.



Next, the right boot is taller than the left, as shown in the following picture. The leather and stitching on the back is also crooked on the left boot it seems. The last two pictures are larger pictures of the left and right boot to show this point.





My questions is did Wolverine send me defects? Or maybe they're seconds. Or maybe I'm just being too nitpicky. Has anyone received replacement boots from Wolverine and found them disappointing? I will give Wolverine a call, but I figure I'll wait until the holidays are over first, so I'd like to hear your opinions on this. Thanks for the help guys.
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