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Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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Fwocker.

- B

+1

Originally Posted by lee_44106

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Is that an earring in your left ear?

Is that i-Gent (or i-Thugs as the Asian contigent prefer) approved?

What about the signet ring?

looks like a great trip, can't wait to see the finish product

Gaz - sounds like you had a nice trip as well! Good point regarding the absence of a front dart. Something I missed upon first glance.

Mao - is the back seamless as well? From the fitting it looks like you're doing flap pockets, is that correct?

Originally Posted by clee1982

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can't wait to see the finish product
+ 1 and I like the wide lapels of the suit jacket. Everything looks good maomao. Great pictures.

Originally Posted by gazman70k

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the Florentine cut offers a more interesting divergence from SF's obsession with all things Neapolitan.

What are the defining characteristics of the Florentine cut?

Originally Posted by TRINI

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What are the defining characteristics of the Florentine cut?

And, is there an existing thread that outlines the differences between the various regional styles? If not, what reference should I look for? Flusser?

Originally Posted by TRINI

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What are the defining characteristics of the Florentine cut?

Not sure if this is at all accurate, but my observations are that the Florentine cut is smoother with cleaner lines. It has a touch of fullness to add comort, but it keeps that fullness at a minimum to keep its contoured shape.

Is that at all correct?

Originally Posted by lee_44106

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Is that an earring in your left ear?

Is that i-Gent (or i-Thugs as the Asian contigent prefer) approved?

the i-Goons will not be happy with this.

Originally Posted by TRINI

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What are the defining characteristics of the Florentine cut?

Tends to be trim and short. The defining characteristic is that the dart is diagonal going from under the arm to the to the pocket. See here (credit: uppercase)

Originally Posted by imatlas

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And, is there an existing thread that outlines the differences between the various regional styles? If not, what reference should I look for? Flusser?

There is no good resource for this that I know of. The best is to ask if you have questions. Somebody (not me) will usually know. Most of the time they will probably be wrong, but opinionated, but sometimes they will get it right. All in all, the various regional styles are not as different as we would make them seem.

Isn't the shoulder seam also angled more towards the back? Or is that Cifonelli?

The Feb issue of Men's Ex has a wonderful spread on the characteristics of Florentine, Neapolitan, Milanese and Roman cuts. Unfortunately its in Japanese. I'll take a photo of it shortly.

The primary highlights of the Florentine cut are:

1) Sloping but structured shoulders. Not as natural as the Neapolitan cut. There is quite a bit of padding in my RTW jacket.

2) The shoulder seam is angled towards the back pulling the fabric to roll over the shoulders and hence eliminating our beloved divots

3) A single dart on the side. Notice the wonderfully uninterrupted checked pattern that Waomao shared with us

4) Flared skirt with opened quarters that is rounder at the bottom

Should clarify that to my knowledge, the seamless back is NOT a feature of the Florentine cut.

My RTW seems to capture the L&L house style featuring the larger fish mouth notched lapels, soft 3 roll 2 (although I have seen examples of hard rolled 3 button tweed jackets), high armholes, roped shoulders and rather narrow sleeves. All the button holes were hand stictched but I believe the RTW buttons made from the husk of some type of plant but it escapes me for the moment. Fabric is an English hopsack and its fully lined. My only disappointment with the jacket was that the buttons were not fastened as tightly as I expected but that was easily fixed.

Here's a shot of my RTW. Not as spectacular as Moa's beeespoke but good enough for a small timer like me.

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

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Mao - is the back seamless as well? From the fitting it looks like you're doing flap pockets, is that correct?

Back is not seamless. I did not ask if they would do that. Their house style typically have besome pockets, but will do anything you ask, flaps, 3 patches, etc.

Originally Posted by TRINI

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What are the defining characteristics of the Florentine cut?

Shorter, leaner, but full chest and some back drape. No front dart, and slopped shoulders. Very rounded and open quarters. Also, at least for Liverano, no spalla camicie. Pants have no break, normally single pleat, and slim.

Originally Posted by iammatt

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There is no good resource for this that I know of. The best is to ask if you have questions. Somebody (not me) will usually know. Most of the time they will probably be wrong, but opinionated, but sometimes they will get it right. All in all, the various regional styles are not as different as we would make them seem.

This is true, you can easily find the signature Florentine single diagonal dart on Neapolitan jackets. Also when it comes to bespoke, the lines are even more blurred.

Originally Posted by maomao1980

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This is true, you can easily find the signature Florentine single diagonal dart on Neapolitan jackets. Also when it comes to bespoke, the lines are even more blurred.

I bet the Japanese know the difference