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S.N.S. Herning Fall/Winter 2010

post #1 of 18
Thread Starter 
S.N.S. is using the words Trademark, Artisan, and Genesis to describe their collection, a nod to the fact that each piece includes a tag signed by its maker. Text by Pete Anderson Photos by Albert Thomas, unless otherwise attributed. I'm a bad salesman. When I'm selling something I don't like, it shows. I glance to the side, I waffle on details, I give canned answers. Dag of S.N.S. Herning is a good salesman, mostly because he gives an immediate impression that S.N.S. Herning makes a spine-crushingly great sweater and does it the right way. Unlike a few reps at the show who were reticent in dealing with "the press," Dag required no credentials from us before expounding, in Danish-accented English, on what S.N.S. Herning means. Dag--not just David Alan Grier anymore. Literally, it means Søren Nielsen Skyt, who started knitting sweaters in Herning, Denmark, in 1931. The company has never faltered, and today is run by the grandson of the o.g. S.N.S. According to Dag, the deal with S.N.S. is that they aren't so much "designers," so much as producers, and their product is high-quality knits constructed in much the same way--on many of the same machines--since the 30s. (This despite the fact that S.N.S. was in part brought into the men's contemporary spotlight after being picked up by Dover Street Market, Rei Kawakubo's London store and a design tastemaker.) So the fall/winter 2010 collection at (capsule) was more of the same, in a good way. I had myself seen a lot of Herning pieces online, but the dimensional character of the knitting is much more evident in person. The bubble knit on a cardigan and the interior tag stating "Garanteret ren Uld"--guaranteed all wool. Rack of dopest knits. S.N.S. rep demonstrating Danish nonchalance in re collar styling. The overwhelming majority of S.N.S. knits are heavily textured. The "bubbles" pattern is a trademark of S.N.S., and serves to insulate today's wearer against closing-time-in-January cold just as it insulated Danish fisherman against North Sea weather. Most of the fabrics have a tight-knit, dry, almost wiry feel, rather than the loftier and cashmere-soft offerings that dominate the men's sweater market. The stuff isn't overly scratchy, though--I own sweaters that itch me even through woven shirts, and I could wear an S.N.S. scarf against my neck with no discomfort at all. Not your granddad's shawl collar. But it may be Søren's granddad's shawl collar. Dag pointed out some of the aspects of sweaters that are unique to S.N.S. On one sweater, a thinner cardigan, a seamlike detail on the sleeve turns out to be an artifact of the knitting--you can pull it taut so the sleeve lays flat, but when you let go the fabric remembers the fold and the detail returns. The fabric on these lighter sweaters seems uniform; on inspection there is a heatherlike variation. Although S.N.S. does not consider themselves designers, according to Dag, "Sometimes the machine has something to say." The cut of the sweaters is also deceptively simple. The armscye is cut straight, rather than fully fashioned, and the sleeve is simply sewn in. That sort of anti-fashion, pragmatic detail is emblematic of their approach. Dag explaining the ghost in the machine. Sort of. Olive this sweater. Dag showing off S.N.S. construction--no fully fashioned shoulder. Can't see the line, can ya Russ? The "Stark" cardigan is a perennial S.N.S. Herning piece, one Dag calls "our SUV." It's a versatile, heavy gauge cardigan with a typical S.N.S. knit pattern, a high neck collar that looks good folded down as well, and metal buttons that add an industrial dimension. One of the few aspects of S.N.S.'s models that changes from year to year is the colors offered. Popular colors in recent years include slate blue, purple, and neutral grays and blacks. There's a hint of Hamlet's and Kierkegaard's uniquely Danish existential angst in a black cardigan that's called the Stark. A striking color offered next fall will be a blood red--at (capsule) presented in a scarf that is essentially one long sleeve. Perfect for taking arms against a sea of troubles. An actual arm to take against the sea... stretching it here. Color swatches. S.N.S. was cutting lengths for stores to take as samples. S.N.S. Herning is available at OAK, Tres Bien, The Bureau, Winn Perry, and the Inventory Stockroom. Albert, not doing his job. Photo by Dan Chaparian
post #2 of 18
For the record, he and I were in deep discussion of this place, now my new home-away-from-home in Los Angeles.
post #3 of 18
I first read about these sweaters recently in Inventory Magazine and quickly fell in love with their design and apparent quality. It's too bad some of their designs are only limited runs. There's at least 3 sweaters just in this posting above, that I'd like to own.
post #4 of 18
Great writeup and pictures. The list of stockists at the bottom should help some noob questions too!
post #5 of 18
I've liked a lot of SNS designs but never wanted to jump because of the palette. That 'blood red' calls to me, though.
post #6 of 18
Pete great writeup, thanks. How do SNS production runs work, meaning when are these generally available? Selection right now in the online stores is basically nonexistent. Looking for a Stark large in green or gray.
post #7 of 18
yeah that blood red looks great
post #8 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoelF View Post
Pete great writeup, thanks. How do SNS production runs work, meaning when are these generally available? Selection right now in the online stores is basically nonexistent. Looking for a Stark large in green or gray.

Not sure. Might be worth e-mailing them.
post #9 of 18
Nice write up and good information shared here on my favorite knit brand at the moment, shoreman. Excellent.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahjota View Post
I've liked a lot of SNS designs but never wanted to jump because of the palette. That 'blood red' calls to me, though.
I personally liked this past season's color palette, but I was also in need of some basic colors in order to be more well rounded with my MC and SW&D wear combined. I own the Stark Cardigan in Steel Grey and it is far and away the best knitwear piece I have ever owned and handled without question and gets some good use. The depth in the weave and intricate details shoreman points out are something to appreciate for sure. Not to mention an all wool blend (keeps me nice and warm) and nice fit to boot. I also own the navy Origo V neck sweater and the pattern and weave on that one is also stupendous. Don't hesitate to pick a knit up from SNS, you shouldn't regret it.
post #10 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonio028 View Post
I personally liked this past season's color palette, but I was also in need of some basic colors in order to be more well rounded with my MC and SW&D wear combined. I own the Stark Cardigan in Steel Grey and it is far and away the best knitwear piece I have ever owned and handled without question and gets some good use. The depth in the weave and intricate details shoreman points out are something to appreciate for sure. Not to mention an all wool blend (keeps me nice and warm) and nice fit to boot. I also own the navy Origo V neck sweater and the pattern and weave on that one is also stupendous. Don't hesitate to pick a knit up from SNS, you shouldn't regret it.
I believe you on the details. I do like the Origo, and will probably get that in navy next year just to fill a wardrobe hole. I've just been looking for knits in non-blue and non-gray.
post #11 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahjota View Post
I believe you on the details. I do like the Origo, and will probably get that in navy next year just to fill a wardrobe hole. I've just been looking for knits in non-blue and non-gray.

It is a nice piece, but yeah those were holes I needed to fill so I hear 'ya. I'm looking forward to some of the new colorways too.
post #12 of 18
Doing what I can not to let any of this tempt me, that said; are there any retailers online? fuck, i've been looking for that stark joint for a while now as well. If anyone sees it around in an XS-S Navy, Gray, Maroon, please help me out.
post #13 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by pbandblunts View Post
Doing what I can not to let any of this tempt me, that said; are there any retailers online?

Tres Bien sells some stuff.
http://www.tresbienshop.net/en/grp/s...-all-items.php
post #14 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by pbandblunts View Post
Doing what I can not to let any of this tempt me, that said; are there any retailers online?
Fail to notice the links conveniently provided at the end of the OP? Also, SNS Herning has their own webshop.
post #15 of 18
Fuck, now I cant decide between the stark or bubble knit cardigans, wish I could get that whole "rack of dopest knits" in my closet.
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