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What body type looks best in a Neapolitan shoulders/jackets? - Page 2

post #16 of 30
Thread Starter 
I've seen a shirt shoulder suit jacket, and I think it is superb for casual wear.

For business, I'm unsure in the US they would get it, as it is quite noticeably different to my eye. It's beautiful nonetheless.

But I'm convinced a muscular man can look better no matter one's size with custom wear, in fact, I would say those with extreme from the norm are ideal for bespoke.
post #17 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by dah328
Short of a Mr. Universe-type physique, I don't think that's true at all. Even then, Arnold's managed to find a tailor that fits him well.

I don't think the Neapolitan silhouette is best suited for someone with a V-shaped torso. I think the more military-inspired British silhouettes suit a V-shaped body better.

dan

No, the British SR sihouette, which usually features a lot of waist suppression, would make a muscular guy look like a cartoon. The Milanese silhouette is much better. Manton tells me that Arnold's suits are MTM or bespoke now, but previous to his present incarnation, Arnold wore Armani nearly exclusively (and has said so in many interviews), which suit him very well.
post #18 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soph
And the majority of women prefer a look that is similar if not a tad more than below,
No way. Look at today's Hollywood idols, from the young: Orlando Bloom, Timberlake, and company, the middle aged or approaching middle age: Brad Pitt, George Clooney, Pierce Brosnan, and the truly aged: Harrison Ford, Clint Eastwood. None of these guys are bigger than David, and most are considerably slighter. Only Justin Timberlake (a professional dancer, remember), and Brad Pitt are truly athletic looking. Most women I know or have talked to about the subject find guys who are too gym-toned a little off putting, actually. Nearly all women I have talked to think that bodybuilders are actually a little disgusting looking.
post #19 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy
No, the British SR sihouette, which usually features a lot of waist suppression, would make a muscular guy look like a cartoon. The Milanese silhouette is much better. Manton tells me that Arnold's suits are MTM or bespoke now, but previous to his present incarnation, Arnold wore Armani nearly exclusively (and has said so in many interviews), which suit him very well.
Overly muscular guys look ridiculous in tailored clothing. No cut can help that. The prople who look best are those with "normal" bodies. Proper proportion is what is attractive to the human eye. Chicks may like muscles, and the muscles themselves may be attractive, but when viewed as a whole, the proportions of an overly muscled figure are not pleasing.
post #20 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy
No way. Look at today's Hollywood idols, from the young: Orlando Bloom, Timberlake, and company, the middle aged or approaching middle age: Brad Pitt, George Clooney, Pierce Brosnan, and the truly aged: Harrison Ford, Clint Eastwood. None of these guys are bigger than David, and most are considerably slighter. Only Justin Timberlake (a professional dancer, remember), and Brad Pitt are truly athletic looking. Most women I know or have talked to about the subject find guys who are too gym-toned a little off putting, actually. Nearly all women I have talked to think that bodybuilders are actually a little disgusting looking.
Agreed, although since Troy, Brad Pitt has looked like a steroid induced ape.
post #21 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy
No way. Look at today's Hollywood idols, from the young: Orlando Bloom, Timberlake, and company, the middle aged or approaching middle age: Brad Pitt, George Clooney, Pierce Brosnan, and the truly aged: Harrison Ford, Clint Eastwood. None of these guys are bigger than David, and most are considerably slighter. Only Justin Timberlake (a professional dancer, remember), and Brad Pitt are truly athletic looking. Most women I know or have talked to about the subject find guys who are too gym-toned a little off putting, actually. It shows a little too much vanity, to their minds.


--- You have to have a good mugg first no matter what, then after that, I disagree strongly, it's like when a girl tells you a car doesn't matter when you pull up in a Buick versus a convertible sports car, trust me, not to be cocky, but from vast experience with and many a one night affair, women love on a physical level a lean, muscular physique and no not freaking Steriod Arnold shit. I've had some crazy, wierd, fun shit go down that was strictly related and admitted to by several beautiful women on strictly physical. Women are much better publicly admitting to their sexual/physical desires, but still publicly they don't like to seem shallow or a slut so hence the denial like with cars, money, etc. Don't be naive.
post #22 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soph
--- You have to have a good mugg first no matter what, then after that, I disagree strongly, it's like when a girl tells you a car doesn't matter when you pull up in a Buick versus a convertible sports car, trust me, not to be cocky, but from vast experience with and many a one night affair, women love on a physical level a lean, muscular physique and no not freaking Steriod Arnold shit. I've had some crazy, wierd, fun shit go down that was strictly related and admitted to by several beautiful women on strictly physical. Women are much better publicly admitting to their sexual/physical desires, but still publicly they don't like to seem shallow or a slut so hence the denial like with cars, money, etc. Don't be naive.
Not being naive dude. Again, just check out what I said about the Hollywood idols, always a good gauge of what women *really* want. Not to say that there aren't some girls that like more muscular guys. Of course, it could also be that they are just being nice. BTW, I am pretty lean an relatively muscular for my size.
post #23 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by iammatt
Agreed, although since Troy, Brad Pitt has looked like a steroid induced ape.


--- Yea, Brad has a tough life:
post #24 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy
Not being naive dude. Again, just check out what I said about the Hollywood idols, always a good gauge of what women *really* want. Not to say that there aren't some girls that like more muscular guys. Of course, it could also be that they are just being nice.

BTW, I am pretty lean an relatively muscular for my size.


--- I think people still think muscular means extreme, when really a natural physique when not flexed is really quite toned and not "HUGE" at all in a relaxed state.

Celebrity and money makes you better looking, look at all the ugly ass rock stars that pull uber girl models.

The stars you mentioned all have pretty boy faces, which is and always will be attractive to women, then the body plays in after. It's hardly a deal breaker for most women, just a prefered preference, or for a physical/sexual one time affair. It's more about symmetry for women. IamMatt's point of the statue of David is true in many ways.

-Anyway.....what was this post intially about---we're all so serious about this. lol......
post #25 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soph
--- Yea, Brad has a tough life:


I am not sure that is the point. Billy Bob Thornton, who is no he-man, had her too. So did her own brother for that matter.

I think that a lot of girls like muscles on a guy. I just think that muscles look better when a guy is in a t-shirt than when a guy is wearing a suit. When you can't see the definition, bulk is just bulk.

It is kind of like a girl with huge tits. Sometimes they just look fat if what they are wearing does not show off their assets.

BTW, I would still take that incestuous, blood-vile carrying Jolie. But not for more than a night or two.
post #26 of 30
Thread Starter 
Pitt at the opening of Troy with that musculature underneath:
I think he looks alright in a tailored? sportcoat.
[


IamMatt on Jolie:
BTW, I would still take that incestuous, blood-vile carrying Jolie. But not for more than a night or two.

---Agree, she's one sex machine looking female. See my point, she's the one night stand because she's so hot, but I doubt alot of us would ever marry her.
post #27 of 30
I think slim, with some muscle is the best type for almost any suit (including Napoli style).

Quote:
I still don´t see one sophs questions answered : is the neapolitan "shirt shoulder" to casual or informal for a suit that can be worn in the evening for a nice dinner or for more formal events?
I ask, because i plan to order a mtm Caruso suit in dark grey/charcoal which is supposed to be an all around suit. I really like the shirt shoulder but i am not sure of its versatiliy...

I don't think it's "too casual" for the evening or a nice dinner (or business), but maybe it might be for formal events. If you want "spalla camicia" but retain as much formality as possible, then get a jacket with no patch pockets and no flaps...also choose a fabric that doesn't seem too casual.

Also remember that all Neapolitan jackets are not done with "spalla camicia." You can get more structured shoulders (still with very light weight, minimal padded construction) that are very commonly used in suits made in Napoli.

Another thing is that there are many different silouettes available in Naples...for example a Borrelli may be suited for a slimmer person, but a Kiton can accomodate a fuller physique.
post #28 of 30
I always thought Paul Drake from Perry Mason was a sharp-dressed "big man."
post #29 of 30
La 'spalla camicia' (or, if you will, the Neapolitan or shirt-sleevehead) is suitable for all body types. I am powerfully built, with broad shoulders and I, personally, find it : (a) more comfortable than the classic sleevehead and ; (b) more flattering, since I do not need (any more) padding. Remember that one of the main features of the spalla camicia is 'fullness' in the upper arms ; the sleevehead is pushed through the armhole.

Now, is it 'suitable' for business or, shall we say, more 'serious' occasions ? Some non-Italian tailors say nay - but then, they would, wouldn't they ? A large part of the problem is that they don't know how to make it ; this is not a criticism, by the way ; the spalla camicia simply is not part of their tradition. My answer is this : if you choose a dark, good-quality fabric made-up with, say, jetted (or, 'besom') pockets, welted breast pocket, etc., - i.e., without fuss - what difference does it make ? Remember also that the sleevehead need NOT be 'ruched' (i.e., gathered) ; in this way, particularly with heavier weight fabrics, the difference will be perceptible only to the cognoscenti. I personally like it ruched, but I ask my tailor to do this by making the head very full and then gathering the excess fabric into tiny pleats. However, I should never ask anyone but a highly skilled southern Italian tailor to do this : the results can be a little d'Artagnan !
post #30 of 30
I don't know how Michael Jordan would look in a Neapolitan suit. Thing with basketball players is that they have over-exaggerated and disproportionate deltoids (from shooting baskets). Just take a close look at any basketball player during a game and you will see that they have HUGE delts, but smaller everything else. A Neapolitan shoulder might actually help this look better because it would sort of de-emphasize the size of the shoulders, but I wouldn't recommend to anybody to try to develop the physique of a basketball player.

Look at RJ for example, while his arms (biceps and triceps) are not small, they are disproportionate with his shoulders (you would think a guy with delts that big would have bigger arms):

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