Mr. McNairy's eagle-itarian business card.
After a pass around the open floor of the Angel Orensanz Foundation building (a former synagogue) at (capsule), the first display that really turned my head was Mark McNairy's. Keen-eyed Styleforum members are likely familiar with McNairy's collection of classically American-styled, UK-made shoes, carried by Mike and Adele at Epaulet in Brooklyn and oft-highlighted by Michael Williams's blog acontinuouslean, but Mark's upcoming collection will cover dudes head to toe. At least neck to toe"”Mark will offer neckties, t-shirts, oxfords, trousers, and outerwear (all made in the United States) while continuing to deliver shoes that both embody and defy tradition.
Ties in madras and repp stripes.
McNairy served for a few years as a design director at J. Press, the old guard of go-to-hell pants (and suits, and shirts, and accessories). Despite their, uh, preputation for being buttoned down and conservative, J. Press has for-just-about-ever provided for the man who wants his sportcoats loud and his emblematic ties to wink and nudge, an type that occasionally includes me. McNairy's own collection toes that line and takes a couple of well-shod steps over it.
Perusing the goods. Note the desert camo.
The new pieces include a nylon windbreaker cut coaches jacket style, done in bright, jockey-silk tones (with a printed lining proclaiming JERSEY FRESH, so the other dudes in the country club locker room will know where you came up); and "expedition trousers" in plaid flannel that are somewhere between pajama pants and mountaineering gear. The jackets may be a little loud for some, especially in pink and orange, although McNairy himself wore the green quite well.
Expedite these pants.
Keeping with the tradition of his line that started last spring, there's a range of oxfords in classic colors with off-beat details like contrast collars and mixed panels reminiscent of old Brooks Brothers fun shirts. I appreciate that, although the cuts are slimmer than more staid prep brands, they are not intended to be worn pulling at every button. The clothes have a streetwear awareness in their mix of color, flash, and wit. Camouflage cargos mingle with bright oxfords and checked shirts. A bright red cotton jacket with a fold down knit collar is labeled the "Fill'er up" jacket.
These are sample sizes, so I would have overfilled the Fill'er up jacket.
A pale pink oxford to meet all your pale pink oxford needs.
The rack. Knits, military shirt jackets, trousers, coaches jackets.
Even with all the new merch, I see the shoes as the best of McNairy's line. The (capsule) display showed off the longwing brogue boot McNairy is producing with Engineered Garments (yes, it is sold with panels of scotch-grain and smooth leather that alternate on each boot--wear with a McNairy fun shirt for maximum fun), along with a number of styles that playfully combine old-standard shapes from America, England, and Italy with leathers and soles I've never seen in a mall-store window. See monkstrap captoes in dirty buck suede, camo-canvas mixed wingtips, and plenty of blue suede.
Mixed scotch grain and full grain leather longwing brogue boot for Engineered Garments.
The sprezzatura here is inherent in the design, which conveniently allows you to close both buckles.
The shoes are perhaps not as heavy duty as their forebears--British bogstompers or 'Murrican campus kicks, but they pair well with narrow indigo denim and some are still appropriate for work--assuming dressing with a little charisma isn't frowned upon in the office. A saddle shoe with four different leathers sits next to the Engineered Garments boots, and elsewhere a pair of olive suede boots (leather sole here) sits above jodphur boots in a mature shade of dark brown but with a thick crepe sole.
Back in the saddle--brown leather heel strip, gray suede rear quarters, dark brown pebbled leather saddle, and white full grain leather. Out of focus: Mark McNairy (left), Adele of Epaulet.
Boot in olive suede with leather sole. The fairest of them all, in my opinion.
That's goodyear welt, son.
McNairy (for Bass Weejuns) boat moccasin. You can practice your knots on this thing.
This shoe has a white sole. Won't make a WASP joke.
Mark McNairy stockists include Epaulet in Brooklyn, the ACL Shop, and Beams in Tokyo, among others.
Epaulet's Mike Kuhle (of Brooklyn) modeling Mark's cotton overcoat, with Mark McNairy (of New Amsterdam) modeling the coaches jacket.