I just returned from a trip to Ireland; while there, I was watching CNN International, and they had a piece on "battle of the bespoke tailors -- Italy vs. Savile Row." Richard Quest (the CNNI anchor) had bespoke suits made by Gieves and Hawkes and by Campagna. I thought the Campagna looked better, although the segment really did not show much of the finished product and ultimately was pretty vacuous. Campagna has recently bought the rights to Caraceni, which I understand was historically one of the great Italian bespoke makers and where he started his career. How he had bought that villa in Italy which serves as his headquarters is beyond me.
Most (maybe all) bespoke English suits have a dart underneath the lapels. This dart is about 3" long and disappears into the under collar. Its aim is to throw more fullness into the chest and get the collar closer to the neck. Maybe that's a "cugno al petto". I have never seen this feature on ready-to-wear suits, although it is quite common on bespoke suits.
I have a couple of bespoke Gieves suits, and they have this feature. Also, a couple of the SaintAndrews jackets (though, interestingly, not all) I own also have this feature. (A Lauren Purple Label by SaintAndrews does not have this.)