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E. Marinella new website

post #1 of 31
Thread Starter 
http://www.marinellanapoli.it/

Do you own one?
post #2 of 31
I have bought 2 bespokes they are ready about 2 months.
post #3 of 31
Ties are OK, nothing special. At full retail, I'd say that they are even overpriced. Drakes makes Marinella's RTW ties. Drakes' namesake ties are made at least as well as the Marinella's and they make a better knot than the Marinella's and they are cheaper. Marinella's are nice ties but they are sub $100 ties in my book.
post #4 of 31
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel
Ties are OK, nothing special. At full retail, I'd say that they are even overpriced. Drakes makes Marinella's RTW ties. Drakes' namesake ties are made at least as well as the Marinella's and they make a better knot than the Marinella's and they are cheaper. Marinella's are nice ties but they are sub $100 ties in my book.

ed

does Drakes offer MTM?
post #5 of 31
Don't know. Any particular reason you want MTM ties?
post #6 of 31
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel
Don't know. Any particular reason you want MTM ties?

I'll phone or email; yeah, 6'5''
post #7 of 31
I like their ten commandments:
Quote:
1- As in all the things, also for tie it is a matter of size: the correct one stays between 8,5 and the 9,5 cms at the widest point 2- The knot: it's important to learn to do it without tightening too much, avoid the effect "hung." Always untie it in the evening and hang the tie well stretched during the night. 3- Using the correct material: silk jaquard for the regimental, lighter silk model foulard for the printed cloth, pattern for the ties with an elegant tone, lines wool or Scottish patterns for winter sporting clothing. 4- A tie for every occasion: in the morning prefer a light colour and patterned tie, in the evening opt for a darker tie. 5- Don't take advice and don't remit the choice of the tie to anybody: the only rule is to follow the instinct. Choosing the tie has to be an irrational action. 6- The instinct has to follow a certain logic, too. Absolutely avoid: too wide and showy patterns, ties with an only central pattern but also too pale and anonymous ones. Remember that the tie reveals the personality. 7- To prefer: even tint ties in definite colours, small patterns (pois, lozenges, little squares, rhombus, small cashmere prints), transversal lines of two or three colours at the most. 8- The colours: the tie must stand out against the suit and the shirt, without clashing. It must be of a colour darker than the shirt's one and more intense than the jacket's one. It's often the only coloured note of a serious clothing, but pay attention not to exaggerate! Avoid the pea green, the canary yellow as the fire red and the sugared almond pink. Darker colours, but not anonymous the bordeaux and the dark red, the blue, the green and the brown. 9- The combining with the shirt is a mine-field where only the good taste can drive you: avoid however the overlap of a tie with a thick pattern on a squared shirt or the combining "all-stripes" of a regimental tie, stripes shirt and jacket in operated material. 10- Never the coordinated tie + small pocket handkerchief: it is as useless as anachronistic affectation. Always avoid to have a too cared and affected comprehensive look and opt for an decontractée (relaxed) elegance.
Charming how the Italian accent breaks through, even in writing.
post #8 of 31
Is it actually a known thing that Drake's makes all of Marinella's RTW ties? I know that both source a great deal of their silks -- particularly the gum twills -- from Vanners in England. I recall that Oscar Udeshi once posted on AA that Drake's was contracted to make some Marinella RTW ties at one point when the company was overwhelmed with orders. Or something like that. Is there more to the story than this?
post #9 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel
Ties are OK, nothing special. At full retail, I'd say that they are even overpriced. Drakes makes Marinella's RTW ties. Drakes' namesake ties are made at least as well as the Marinella's and they make a better knot than the Marinella's and they are cheaper. Marinella's are nice ties but they are sub $100 ties in my book.
Yeah, I've heard that--from RJman, I think. Has anyone confirmed that fact? And if true, does Drake do all the printing too, or just the weaving? And can anyone confirm that the ties that Drake makes for Marinella (if this is, in fact, still the case) are identical in quality of silk and manufacture to those they brand under their own name? As an analogy, the fact that C&J makes shoes to be branded by, among others, Brooks and Ralph Lauren, along with Cleverley, doesn't mean that all of these shoes are of the same quality (they aren't), nor of the same quality as those they brand themselves. Although I could well be wrong about this, I somehow doubt that just any Drake tie is the quality equivalent of a tie branded by Marinella. I'm basing this conjecture on the price differences and immensely-positive reputation that Marinella ties enjoy on the various forums. Can anyone add to this Drake-Marinella connection?

Edit: Sorry, Manton. I posted before realizing that you had. I'm raising the same question.
post #10 of 31
Roger: Drake does not, to my knowledge, weave or print silk. The silk is all sourced from various English silk makers. Ditto Marinella. Some companies like Hermes do make their own silks, but this is the exception rather than the rule in the tie world. Now, comissioning silk is another matter. That works much like suitings. Most of the renowned merchants work with spinners and weavers, to the extent of supplying a design and specifiying weight, ply, and weave, but they do not themselves make any cloth.
post #11 of 31
Manton, so is the process one in which Drake or Marinella purchase the woven silk (to their specifications) and then apply the printing (with printed ties) and/or the color dyes? What about woven ties in which the pattern (say stripes) is already woven in. Do the tie companies just purchase it and then cut, fold, and stitch the ties? For some reason, I had imagined that the tie makers did much more than that.
post #12 of 31
To the best of my knowlegde, the silk makers both weave and print. The tiemakers cut and sew. And put in the lining, the loop, etc. However, they often comission silk made to their specifications, including weight, color, pattern, weave, etc.
post #13 of 31
Argh!
There was a thread where someone bought a Marinella which had a "Made in England" and the telltale "MD" initials in tiny font printed on a tag. That was made by Drake's. I don't believe that all Marinella are made by Drake's; it's a misconception certain others have been perpetuating. Marinella have their own workrooms and they use them. I own ties from Marinella and Drake's and they're both excellent. I find Marinella's patterns a little staid on the whole.I prefer Holliday & Brown, who also supposedly made some Marinella ties according to Udeshi. Those were made in England and now are made in Italy. Marinella said it used to buy silks from Holliday & Brown and from its defunct colleague Sambrook Witting. The H&B patterns can very closely resemble Marinella, so I'd say there's truth that they sourced their silks from the same sources. However, I believe now the H&B silks are sourced from Mantero, a large silk weavers and tiemakers that owns H&B.
I can understand if Drake's or H&B occasionally helped Marinella fill orders the way years ago C&J would occasionally make shoes for John Lobb. Drake's in particular will use its tiny initials on items it makes in order to show it made them. Find those on a Marinella tie tag and you have a Drake's-made Marinella. If you can't, I don't believe Drake's made it.

I think Marinella's nice; I think the mystique is overplayed, except that the shops in Milan and Naples truly are otherworldly (they even blew away my decidedly hard-to-impress sister, who brought me back a Marinella souvenir from one) in atmosphere and service; the silks are truly wonderful,better than Hermes IMHO;and they have done a very good job preserving not just their name and integrity but a house style as sharp and clear as a the lines of a Bertone-designed car.
post #14 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton
Is it actually a known thing that Drake's makes all of Marinella's RTW ties? I know that both source a great deal of their silks -- particularly the gum twills -- from Vanners in England. I recall that Oscar Udeshi once posted on AA that Drake's was contracted to make some Marinella RTW ties at one point when the company was overwhelmed with orders. Or something like that. Is there more to the story than this?

hey M, thought we had lost you to the exciting world of publishing. glad to see you around
post #15 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJman
Argh!There was a thread where someone bought a Marinella which had a "Made in England" and the telltale "MD" initials in tiny font printed on a tag. That was made by Drake's. I don't believe that all Marinella are made by Drake's; it's a misconception certain others have been perpetuating.
Sorry, RJman if I made a faulty attribution. That's what happens with a faulty memory! And it's so hard to check sources on these forums. I probably read a post of yours in which you said what you've repeated here and just remembered the connection between the firms.

BTW, for anyone who really likes Drake ties, take a look at what Sierra Trading Post have for sale these days. Lots and lots of them at excellent prices (as low as $35 and $42 on sale). If they're half the tie some seem to think, there are some good deals to be had. The patterns on the mini-florals and medallions are quite similar to Marinella patterns.
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