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Sartorial mythbusting - Page 36

post #526 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by tailorgod View Post
For a start: I don't hate drape and I don't hate A&S! I find it very disturbing that their supporters, one of them especially, always come up with such a strongly negative attitude. It's just that when you brag so much about what you do better than others it actually should be better and not the opposite!
I dont hate drape either but find it to be a waste of time. Certainly the suit that the MD is wearing has numerous flaws and an overall appearance not unlike poorly fitted rtw. I would think he would have a better quality suit on his back but perhaps the sort of customer he gets is theur for the name and cant really see the lack of fit or overall style.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tailorgod View Post
What so many people are not aware of is the fact that some styles are not really meant for every type of figure (voxsartoria is in the right shape and has the best cutter for it, BTW), and drape has it's limitations once the cutter has to adapt the pattern to a portly figure or one with wider hips. Same is valid for those with very sloping shoulders who demand a natural shoulder from their tailors (valid for all styles): It will give you a "sad" appearance and the tailor should advise you against it. John Hitchcock himself has some hefty shoulder padding in his coats.
Probably someone who wears a style that is that unflattering to them is after something much more than clothing such as a lifestyle fantasy. I know a person who prefers a worse made but different silhouette that has nothing to do with comfort or overall appearance and everything to do with cultural signals.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tailorgod View Post
About whnay's coat: The front is not right and it should be easy to spot with a patterned cloth. The problem is that once it is finished and it looks like this it is hard to correct without cutting a new front (which is a lot of work) and it is not the task of the customer to point out such issues to the tailor/ cutter.
As much as I sympathize with Whnay's and anyone who uses Rubinacci's predicament, it may not be important unless you think it is; and if you do believe it to be important and you dont see what's being done, I suppose that's just a situation you have to live with.
post #527 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by iammatt View Post
I am getting the feeling more and more that my approach to men differs from many here, now homoerotic fantasies aside, what's actually wrong with the suit?
post #528 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff View Post
I am getting the feeling more and more that my approach to men differs from many here, now homoerotic fantasies aside, what's actually wrong with the suit?

Nothing, in a technical sense.
It's just that the pinstripes run towards the neck, which creates the unnecessary illusion of being barrel shaped. But that is just a matter of preference as well, I guess.
I personally don't find it very flattering.
post #529 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by tailorgod View Post


For whatever reason my eyes are always drawn to how cleanly the undersleeve is tailored. There seems to be excess fabric in Manton's jacket above, whereas my preference is more [from the man with the ponytail's blog] . . .



It's probably notoriously difficult to finish it cleanly, but below would be enough for me . . .



Or . . . is it a matter of pressing?

- M
post #530 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff View Post
I am getting the feeling more and more that my approach to men differs from many here, now homoerotic fantasies aside, what's actually wrong with the suit?

Look at how the fabric bellows out from the middle button. If that's not a "fit" problem then it's a "fat" problem. Pick your poison.

Judging from the double chin I would say the fault lies more with the wearer and not the tailor.
post #531 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by tailorgod View Post
Nothing, in a technical sense. It's just that the pinstripes run towards the neck, which creates the unnecessary illusion of being barrel shaped. But that is just a matter of preference as well, I guess. I personally don't find it very flattering.
Well, wait a second, perhaps it would be more instructive to see this suit alongside the same wearer in another maker's suit or tshirt and jeans to see if the suit itself flatters? I happen to also know that this is an undarted, sack suit style which was the customer's preference, so from a "fit" pov it deviates from what Nino himself likes to do. But from a construction and pattern matching + feel to teh wearer pov it is much more sophisticated than the A&S suits and possesses a higher standard of construction.
post #532 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by tailorgod View Post
It's just that the pinstripes run towards the neck, which creates the unnecessary illusion of being barrel shaped.
I personally don't find it very flattering.

Agree. Invert the ^ to V somehow and attention will be less drawn to the midsection [and more to the top section], or . . .



Gotta love the architectural mind of the late Ferre.

- M
post #533 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by iammatt View Post



post #534 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff View Post
I am getting the feeling more and more that my approach to men differs from many here, now homoerotic fantasies aside, what's actually wrong with the suit?
The right shoulder is wavy enough that I could surf home on it.
post #535 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmkn View Post
For whatever reason my eyes are always drawn to how cleanly the undersleeve is tailored. There seems to be excess fabric in Manton's jacket above, whereas my preference is more [from the man with the ponytail's blog]

I don't know if you are talking about the excess over the blades, or the rumples in the rear of the sleeve. The former is minimal and well incorporated, IMO. The latter is a pitch problem that was identified and will be corrected (the other sleeve was already hanging cleanly).
post #536 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doxe View Post
Look at how the fabric bellows out from the middle button. If that's not a "fit" problem then it's a "fat" problem. Pick your poison. Judging from the double chin I would say the fault lies more with the wearer and not the tailor.
But again, what makes you think the wearer wouldn't look much worse in another suit? Imagine him in an A&S suit with all it's negligently draping folds? I think also that because I simply do not care about mens' bodies that I must be part of that small percentage that is in no way gay. There are those that are happily gay, those that aren't and a large proportion that live in a state of denial in the middle ground.
post #537 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
or the rumples in the rear of the sleeve.

This. I had a jacket looking pristine at this stage, but upon finishing/tightening-up there was much rumpling there.

Blade looks great.

- M
post #538 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by iammatt View Post
The right shoulder is wavy enough that I could surf home on it.
I see what you mean. Nino's clothing is fitted and also tightly constructed. That means it has to be word for a while to see releases in the chest and shoulder area. It really is only after years of wearing that the you notice the garment gets better. Of course one's weight and shape may have shifted. The jacket, being fitted, may not be seated properly on the wearer causing disturbances; also the shirt may not be fitted properly. I personally wear my shirts fuller than the skin tight style many here prefer and that can cause some disturbance to Nino's jacket lines too, including the shoulder.
post #539 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmkn View Post
For whatever reason my eyes are always drawn to how cleanly the undersleeve is tailored. There seems to be excess fabric in Manton's jacket above, whereas my preference is more [from the man with the ponytail's blog] . . .


Or . . . is it a matter of pressing?

- M

What? I don't have a ponytail! You seem to have been fortunate enough to have missed this threak. You have some reading to do- go get caught up.

The sleeve thing is due to the cut of the undersleeve, not pressing. A clean sleeve will be less mobile than one that has a certain type of messiness in the undersleeve.
post #540 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by el grande tempo View Post


- E

egt, please stir the pot. I'm tied up staring at the azure Caribbean, and a bit torpid from the first martini of the day.

For the time being, I also relinquish official short jokes, fat jokes, and ethnic jokes custodianship...I will, however reclaim these on my return. In the meantime, however, such jokes are timely.

I'll close by noting that this stage of the thread is useless without someone sending jefferyd a Corvato.

I curious if Bunny loses a lot of buttons that close his jackets...and when they pop off, do they make a high-pitched ping! like a flying bullet because of the force and velocity.

Oh: cheers!

- B
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