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Sartorial mythbusting - Page 104

post #1546 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sator View Post
It is actually unknown where drape originated. Some say it originated on the West End, others in Europe, while others think it was American in origin.

The Anglo-American Sir Winston Leonard Spencer-Churchill depicted in a plate from 1906:




- B
post #1547 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
The Anglo-American Sir Winston Leonard Spencer-Churchill depicted in a plate from 1906: - B
I love that. Anglo-American. Wasn't he a Poole customer...?
post #1548 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by George View Post

Wasn't he a Poole customer...?

Yes. They trumpet the 1936 flannel they did for him.

post #1549 of 1680
Yes, but drape strictly means a "drape cut", rather than a coat cut with ease. It is something very specific, although admittedly it is often used extremely loosely just to mean any coat cut with easy lines (ie one with sack like looseness). Henry Poole today say they cut their coat with drape too. In fact, whether used in a highly specific technical sense or used in the sense that Poole uses it today you would have to say that all modern coats (after the Edwardian era) are cut with some drape.
post #1550 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
A&S definitely has some in-house coatmakers, thought not enough to make 100% of their production.
Good to know.
I wonder if this dual track system (in-house and out-house tailors) creates different qualities in the making, which could explain a lot of quality issues (but not the fit problems).
I would suspect that the in-house tailors have more experience and also easier access to the cutter should there be any questions.

Vox, do you have a greater range of movement in your Steed coats than in others with a high armhole?
Edwin seems to cut a more "modern" sleeve which hangs in a cleaner way compared to the traditional drape sleeves.
post #1551 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by tailorgod View Post
Vox, do you have a greater range of movement in your Steed coats than in others with a high armhole? Edwin seems to cut a more "modern" sleeve which hangs in a cleaner way compared to the traditional drape sleeves.
My son is finishing kindergarten this spring. On the days when I pick him up from school, and as the days get longer, we invariably spend a half hour or so playing with his mates in the schoolyard. At his age, this involves scrambling across monkey bars, sliding down spiral tubes, chasing each other on perilously high climbing structures, and so on. Based on this series of rather unusual torture tests for bespoke tailored clothes, I would declare the high armholes on my DeBoise stuff to be up to gymnastic challenges that would result in scarey ripping sounds with clothes of less martially friendly make. - B
post #1552 of 1680
^
Are you saying your son gets his school clothes from Steed?
post #1553 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post
^
Are you saying your son gets his school clothes from Steed?

He also plays on the monkey bars.
post #1554 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post
^
Are you saying your son gets his school clothes from Steed?



You know, Mahon designed a line of RTW school boy blazers, modeled here by a bird:



Click on either side of her necktie for the full story.

At a target price of $27/each, the cost is even below the Despos Discount®.


- B
post #1555 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by ohm View Post
He also plays on the monkey bars.

Veritas.


- B
post #1556 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
You know, Mahon designed a line of RTW school boy blazers, modeled here by a bird: Click on either side of her necktie for the full story. At a target price of $27/each, the cost is even below the Despos Discount®. - B
They looked just like that at my school...
post #1557 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by George View Post
They looked just like that at my school...

On this side of the pond:




- B
post #1558 of 1680
That's a very nice tie.
post #1559 of 1680
post #1560 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post


You know, Mahon designed a line of RTW school boy blazers, modeled here by a bird:



Click on either side of her necktie for the full story.

At a target price of $27/each, the cost is even below the Despos Discount®.


- B
Hmmmh, I thought he is responsible for this piece of art:

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