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Sartorial mythbusting - Page 93

post #1381 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
Wait a second...why would salmon be twice the cost of a burger?

Is not salmon from the sea?


Well, when you are flaunting your decadence, irrational pricing is only an advantage. It was 25 cents for bread: baguette or focaccia. We lived like kings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by iammatt View Post
Yawn.

You're just jealous.
post #1382 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
No, I think the (RJ)man with $3000 shoes is trying to imply I'm being a snob for frequenting a restaurant in college that sells $8 burgers and tops out at $16 for salmon. What can I say? My dorm didn't have a chef .
Tout seul au fond de ma fumerie
Pour un public de vieux
Je rechanterai ma chanson à moi.
Celle du temps où j' m'appelais Jacky...

Être une heure... une heure seulement...
Être une heure... une heure quelquefois.
Être une heure, rien qu'une heure durant.
Beau, beau, beau et con à la fois!
post #1383 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJman View Post
Pour un public de vieux

..


- B
post #1384 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJman View Post
Tout seul au fond de ma fumerie Pour un public de vieux Je rechanterai ma chanson à moi. Celle du temps où j' m'appelais Jacky... Être une heure... une heure seulement... Être une heure... une heure quelquefois. Être une heure, rien qu'une heure durant. Beau, beau, beau et con à la fois!
Okay, I ran that through Google translator, since I wasted my time at college learning how to make arguments that really irritate people instead of studying a basically dead language. Are you saying I'm a scantily veined opium whore?
post #1385 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
Okay, I ran that through Google translator, since I wasted my time at college learning how to make arguments that really irritate people instead of studying a basically dead language.

Are you saying I'm a scantily veined opium whore?

You are not that far yet. Right now you are just a tweed-lovin' rubinacci-wearin' OneShoe-clad attention whore.
post #1386 of 1680
We now enter the section of the page where for the remainder of the page, no snark or sarcasm is allowed.

This ban includes litotic statements.


- B
post #1387 of 1680
post #1388 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarquisMagic View Post

Watch it there buddy...that smiley is right on the line.


- B
post #1389 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
Watch it there buddy...that smiley is right on the line.


Can you please explain where these smileys stand:

post #1390 of 1680
[quote=mafoofan;2934573]Okay, I ran that through Google translator, since I wasted my time at college learning how to make arguments that really irritate people instead of studying a basically dead language.


Are you saying I'm a scantily veined opium whore?[/QUOTE


Tu es vraiment un branleur et un petit con...

La langue morte t'emmerde .
post #1391 of 1680
Well, the drape tutorial will take some more time, so in the meantime I have a few questions for the wearers of drape and "Drapinchen" (I'm sure you covered this subject elsewhere on this forum or even in a book, but I don't follow clothing fora that much and I don't bother to buy books about clothing in English):

What made you choose the drape style?
The look, feel or the fact that it stands out?
Why choose one drape tailor over other ones? (Steed over A&S/ Mahon, Rubinacci/ Solito and alike and reverse?)
post #1392 of 1680
Ok, here is an explanation why I think that the recent A&S drape cut sucks (in comparison to other drape cuts):

We all demand a high armhole, right? To provide a better range of movement, right?

I'm so glad we managed to agree on this!

But, the height of the armhole is only one ingredient for a better range of movement.
Your tailors do measure your armhole diameter, right? It's basically the width of your arms when held against the torso.
The armhole diameter in the pattern should not be too much wider than the direct measurement.
Which is shown in Abb. 41a:



In Abb. 41b you can see the effect of what they do at A&S. The armhole diameter gets really wide, which also has an effect on the under sleeve, which has to correspond in shape.

In this picture you can see the estimated difference of an A&S cut to a normal one, indicated by the white, dotted line. The red, dashed line shows the additional width in the scye area.



This extra cloth is not necessary for the drape in the back, it just creates a messy bulging in that area.



Some are likely to say that this extra cloth is essential for comfort and movement, right?
Actually, the range of movement is depending on the back width and the shape of the sleeve (as explained by jefferyD). German tailors use what is called "Rollfalte" (or Drapinchen ), which is a vertical fold behind the arm scye to give additional range of movement.
Take a look at the back of Vox' coat, it's pretty "clean" in the back, isn't it?



Compare that to the back of T. Mahon's coat:



Also have a look at Manolo Blahnik. It seems that his back width is not big enough to allow proper movement of the arms. The unsightly wrinkles in the sleeve cap is a good indicator for restrictions in the back.



But that is something that happens even to the most expensive or stylish cuts:



End of part 1!

post #1393 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by lasbar View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
Okay, I ran that through Google translator, since I wasted my time at college learning how to make arguments that really irritate people instead of studying a basically dead language.


Are you saying I'm a scantily veined opium whore?


Tu es vraiment un branleur et un petit con...

La langue morte t'emmerde .

post #1394 of 1680
, since Google Translator may muck it up (as it must have done to my Jacques Brel verse), branleur = jerkoff and petit con ~ little shit. At least I actually learned something I can use with my degree.
post #1395 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJman View Post
, since Google Translator may muck it up (as it must have done to my Jacques Brel verse), branleur = jerkoff and petit con ~ little shit. At least I actually learned something I can use with my degree.

Ah, the beauty of the French language in its truest form.
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