Ok, here is an explanation why I think that the
recent A&S drape cut sucks (in comparison to other drape cuts):
We all demand a high armhole, right? To provide a better range of movement, right?
I'm so glad we managed to agree on this!
But, the height of the armhole is only one ingredient for a better range of movement.
Your tailors do measure your armhole diameter, right? It's basically the width of your arms when held against the torso.
The armhole diameter in the pattern should not be too much wider than the direct measurement.
Which is shown in Abb. 41a:
In Abb. 41b you can see the effect of what they do at A&S. The armhole diameter gets really wide, which also has an effect on the under sleeve, which has to correspond in shape.
In this picture you can see the estimated difference of an A&S cut to a normal one, indicated by the white, dotted line. The red, dashed line shows the additional width in the scye area.
This extra cloth is not necessary for the drape in the back, it just creates a messy bulging in that area.
Some are likely to say that this extra cloth is essential for comfort and movement, right?
Actually, the range of movement is depending on the back width and the shape of the sleeve (as explained by jefferyD). German tailors use what is called "Rollfalte" (or Drapinchen
), which is a vertical fold behind the arm scye to give additional range of movement.
Take a look at the back of Vox' coat, it's pretty "clean" in the back, isn't it?
Compare that to the back of T. Mahon's coat:
Also have a look at Manolo Blahnik. It seems that his back width is not big enough to allow proper movement of the arms. The unsightly wrinkles in the sleeve cap is a good indicator for restrictions in the back.
But that is something that happens even to the most expensive or stylish cuts:
End of part 1!
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