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Sartorial mythbusting - Page 77

post #1141 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
What annoys me most about that stupid smiley is that it's not anti-aliased properly so the edges are all jagged. It needs foofing. The irony.

It's only an issue when quoted.

My disappointment with it is that it is not animated. You deserve more.


- B
post #1142 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
It's only an issue when quoted.

My disappointment with it is that it is not animated. You deserve more.

I deserve less. At least, I think I do. I wish someone would explain to me how the hell it came about and what, exactly, it's usage is.
post #1143 of 1680
Whew! The last two pages were very exciting!

I wonder how this page will go.

At any rate, do not lose sight of the fact that the OP has updated his blog with more Sartorial Mythbusting.


- B
post #1144 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
I deserve less. At least, I think I do. I wish someone would explain to me how the hell it came about and what, exactly, it's usage is.

iammatt made it. It's usage is as a glyph for you, or things that are you-like.


- B
post #1145 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
iammatt made it. It's usage is as a glyph for you, or things that are you-like.

So, it's like a four-letter word to describe small-timing?
post #1146 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
So, it's like a four-letter word to describe small-timing?

No, I think that when iammatt painstakingly crafted this GIF on his MS Paint, he wanted to capture the 8bit embodiment of a quality that might go by the name, "relentlessness."


- B
post #1147 of 1680
So far, this is a /vox page.

Let's pick things up a bit, people, okay?


- B
post #1148 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
Not the most careful work in the world on the jacket...the trousers are a bit nicer, done by the Ambrosis.
- B

I'm starting to see the distinction between the beautician/stylist/fitter and the technician/finisher in the bespoke world.

Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
You had 's number...well done.
- B

Well, fan is the abbreviated form of "fanatic!"

Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
Ha, well was it worth the wait? These close-ups are not forgiving.

Yep. But I already knew about those smoking [literally smoking] Italian ladies and their deftness with needle and thread.

- M
post #1149 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
Alright, Jeffery, how do these stack up?

Do they make you feel sexy? That's all that counts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mmkn View Post
I'm starting to see the distinction between the beautician/stylist and the fitter/technician/finisher in the bespoke world.

FTFY. And maybe you're right. I may have no taste but I make a better pocket than that Solito dude.
post #1150 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post

- B

There is something familiar about ^^^ British made buttonholes . . . Oh, yea . . .






- M
post #1151 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post
Do they make your wife or other women think you sexy? That's all that counts.

FIFY .


Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post
. . . I'm starting to see the distinction between the beautician/stylist and the fitter/technician/finisher in the bespoke world.

Interesting that you put fitting on that side. I have always thought that fitting [the chalking & pinning] is much more art [beauty] than technical.

Maybe a fitter also does the shaping with the iron and thus is "technical"?

- M
post #1152 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
Here's Manton's old AAAC article...which I have hyperlinked several times in the last month...and it is a pretty clear explanation even though its main purpose is to show how a spalla camicia works.


- B

Thanks
post #1153 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmkn View Post
Interesting that you put fitting on that side. I have always thought that fitting [the chalking & pinning] is much more art [beauty] than technical. - M
It is art that requires solid technique to execute. You will never play Rachmaninoff unless you are proficient at playing scales and formula patterns. You can have an idea in your head of how the garment should fit and look but how many are actually able to execute it? It's more than just pinning and chalking otherwise we wouldn't see so many messes come out of bespoke shops. Fitting is probably the hardest part to learn properly and is why it takes so long to become a cutter. I can think of someone who was taught to make patterns but perhaps his learning the art of fitting was maybe rushed a little and it shows.
post #1154 of 1680
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post
I can think of someone who was taught to make patterns but perhaps his learning the art of fitting was maybe rushed a little and it shows.

There are examples of people who, as far as I can tell, are not good "tailors/technician/finisher," who turn out some of the most stylized [and beauty to the eyes of their beholders] and well made garments I have seen.

They may have drawn patterns, cut, sew, and finished something at some point, but they are better at directing everything together than they are executing the parts. They are like a great conductor or choreographer who has the creativity/sense of proportion/eye for color/social snapshot skills - but can only produce something when paired with great orchestral players or dancers.

Of course, the pairing of Mariano Rubinacci and Gerano comes to mind. There are perhaps others who later in their career gravitate away from production and towards creation [I wonder how much C. Despos, E. Deboise, T. Mahon, Patrick of Chan and the likes actually do tailoring today, compared to earlier days].

When you have the best of the two, like when maestro Arturo Toscanini paired up with the NBC orchestra, the result truly is timeless. I still get chills watching old clips of the maestro in action.

- M

Although I have not seen it, CEGO's father's old Lanvin shirt would be another example.
post #1155 of 1680
Quote:
tailorgod, a Member. Recently arrived from the Satanic Forvm, he carries the protractor and pattern books that symbolize what in German is called Gummibärchen, Kuschelbär, or less typically, Schnuckiputzi.



I am undecided whether I prefer "Schnuckiputzi" over "Hitler" a while back, but calling someone either of these can get you in serious trouble in certain places over here.
What saved you (for the moment) are the swim wear links... I kinda like her (no drape):



and her:



I don't like these (too much drape):



But I guess with the right marketing strategy this look will be a great success even outside the USA. When I look around here (Germany) I sometimes get the feeling it already is...
I know that many think we have secret facilities where we breed blond supermodels like The Klum or Schiffer, but the reality is much more sad (fat, actually)!
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