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Which plaid? - Page 3

post #31 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andre Yew
Oxxford probably wins by a large margin on construction, but its styling always leaves a bit to be desired.

That may be true for RTW but Oxxford MTM offers tremendous flexibility in design choices, much more than any other MTM maker. There's really nothing that they won't do to modify a jacket pattern(shoulder padding, gorge, button stance, front quarters, collar, waist, etc....) or trousers(rise, pleats-flat, dimensions at cuff, knee and thigh.) As for fit, in addition to its standard MTM program, Oxxford also offers a program where a pattern is cut and a fitting is scheduled. This program is offered only at their workrooms and involves a surcharge.
post #32 of 51
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomasso
That may be true for RTW but Oxxford MTM offers tremendous flexibility in design choices, much more than any other MTM maker. There's really nothing that they won't do to modify a jacket pattern(shoulder padding, gorge, button stance, front quarters, collar, waist, etc....) or trousers(rise, pleats-flat, dimensions at cuff, knee and thigh.)

I think this would be great for someone who has a very strong and technical sense of what he wanted, but I think that even enthusiasts like posters of the clothing forums don't necessarily know all the details that go into a great-fitting and -looking suit. We've seen examples here of the Schubert custom shoe experiments and Jantzen shirts that have tried to imitate other styles, but they invariably look like a poor copy. I think it's easier to start out with a house style that you like, and go from there.

--Andre
post #33 of 51
I think I'd be pretty at home with the Mahon/A&S house style from all I've seen. I don't terribly like lots of shoulder padding or canvassing, and the cut seems just right.
post #34 of 51
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdfast
The cloth you chose is really very nice. I was looking at it myself a few months ago and thought it had a lovely pattern and a nice hand as well. My only reservation, which stopped me commissioning a bespoke suit, was that it was a trifle too light.

An update: I got the suit yesterday, and it looks very nice. I'm amazed at how much of the fit he got right including things that the MTM guys never get, but as always there will be a few tweaks necessary here and there, which we will discuss when I meet Tom in SF this Monday. Interestingly, in the forward fitting, the pants were high-backed requiring suspenders, but they're now sidetabs only. He must have thought my butt looked too big or something.

Holdfast's comments are very interesting because now I see that a drape-style suit requires a heftier cloth than 9 oz. It still looks pretty good, but I can see how it would hang better with more weight. I'll take pictures maybe tonight when I wear it for the first time for a Momix performance, where I will probably be severely overdressed, but I'll take one for the team.

--Andre
post #35 of 51
Thread Starter 
I had a great Monday: I went to San Francisco to see Tom Mahon for him to check the fit of my suit, and I also had great lunch with Iammatt. After lunch we went to meet Tom, and had a great time talking about clothes, his philosophy of tailoring, and other things. (We found out he flies planes when we asked why his new business cards had Spitfires on them.)

The best surprise for me was seeing Matt's Rubinacci suit. Now I understand drape, and it's something that can only be judged in person: pictures can convey some of its charm, but you really have to see it in real life, because its effect is 3D in nature. It's an amazing suit that really stands out in real life, and I have never quite seen anything like it before.

I've attached a picture of the three of us below. I'm on the left, Tom's in the middle, and Matt's on the right.

--Andre
LL
post #36 of 51
Thanks Andre. I also have to say that Tom is a terrific guy and your suit and the others he had in progress all looked great. Your fabric choice was, in my mind, correct.
post #37 of 51
Andre,

Thanks for posting the pic. The suit looks great -- there's more suppression and shape than I would have imagined there could be in a drape suit. This makes me look even more forward to my appointment with Tom in NYC.
post #38 of 51
The suit looks beautiful Andre.

My earlier comments about weight were more about being able to wear it across a few seasons in the kind of temperate climate I have in the UK. My Ede suits are not particularly drapey at all so I wasn't considering that aspect when judging the weight (though I did take into account how it would hang in general). Logically a slightly heavier cloth should drape better than lighter ones but really, when you have a suit that looks as dapper as the one you're wearing in that photo, such issues are hardly worth considering!
post #39 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by iammatt
Thanks Andre.

I also have to say that Tom is a terrific guy and your suit and the others he had in progress all looked great. Your fabric choice was, in my mind, correct.

If I'd known I'd have met you guys for lunch. My appointment was at 11.
post #40 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by Will
If I'd known I'd have met you guys for lunch. My appointment was at 11.
Lets plan it for next time. Have you switched over from A&S to Mahon?
post #41 of 51
I'm trying Thomas for the first time. Not only is he very good, he visits three times a year. That is more than anyone else and makes the fitting cycle much more convenient now that I'm travelling less.
post #42 of 51
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys. I'm really enjoying the new suit. It feels a bit odd when I slip on one of my RTW suits now.

Will, I didn't realize you were in San Francisco. We should try to get together the next time. Maybe when Tom revisits, or when Tony Gaziano returns. What did you end up ordering? I ordered a double-breasted suit in a 13 oz. navy chalk stripe for my next suit.

One thing I found out from this suit is that I think drape improves with the weight of the cloth. Matt's 15-20 oz. suit is fairly dramatic proof of that.

--Andre
post #43 of 51
I ordered a blue 10 oz. mohair DB with a quarter lining.

Soft tailoring benefits from heavier cloth but Matt is a stronger man than I. I walked to the hotel wearing a 10 oz. worsted and was sweating in the suite.

Be happy to visit Tony G. with you.
post #44 of 51
Not stronger, just younger and dumber. It was quite hot in there, but hopsack breathes well enough.
post #45 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andre Yew
I think this would be great for someone who has a very strong and technical sense of what he wanted, but I think that even enthusiasts like posters of the clothing forums don't necessarily know all the details that go into a great-fitting and -looking suit. We've seen examples here of the Schubert custom shoe experiments and Jantzen shirts that have tried to imitate other styles, but they invariably look like a poor copy. I think it's easier to start out with a house style that you like, and go from there.

--Andre
I will add that MTM simply cannot offer the fit of bespoke. I have used Oxxford, fitted at the NYC flagship. All the little balance tweaks etc. that are possible with bespoke are not with MTM. Yes, you can pick practically every little detail. But at the end of the day it's just not as perfect as it would be if the pattern is made for me.
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