New Raphael suit (not mine)

TheFoo · Jan 10, 2010

I posted this in my blog, but since nobody reads it, I thought I'd repost here. My friend Jon recently had a suit made up by Raphael. I think it looks pretty damned good. Raphael had minimal input from my friend or me (I was there to control my friend, not Raphael). The cloth is Lesser 11 oz. worsted, in air force blue. The shirt is made by Paris shirtmakers--the collar needs tweaking (for some reason, they made it without any interlining). The tie is Charvet.

Feel free to comment here . . . or on my blog

.

robin · Jan 10, 2010

I would have gone for a cleaner break in the trousers, but it looks very good. The shirt collar is nice too. Also, re: your blog. If you updated it more often then people might read it more often.

And then from the same post, there is also this jacket that looks very questionable...

jamesbond · Jan 10, 2010

Originally Posted by mafoofan

I posted this in my blog, but since nobody reads it, I thought I'd repost here. My friend Jon recently had a suit made up by Raphael. I think it looks pretty damned good. Raphael had minimal input from my friend or me (I was there to control my friend, not Raphael). The cloth is Lesser 11 oz. worsted, in air force blue. The shirt is made by Paris shirtmakers--the collar needs tweaking (for some reason, they made it without any interlining). The tie is Charvet.

Looks like he bought a off the rack Canali, would never have guessed it was bespoke. Is this Raphael's default cut?

TheFoo · Jan 10, 2010

Originally Posted by robin

And then from the same post, there is also this jacket that looks very questionable...

Hmm, can I assume you're speaking in jest? I like it quite a lot. The only times I've felt a genuine impulse to try another tailor is when I've seen good A&S in person.

Originally Posted by jamesbond

Looks like he bought a off the rack Canali, would never have guessed it was bespoke. Is this Raphael's default cut?

What, exactly, do you think is wrong with it? I think it looks pretty impeccable.

jamesbond · Jan 10, 2010

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Hmm, can I assume you're speaking in jest? I like it quite a lot. The only times I've felt a genuine impulse to try another tailor is when I've seen good A&S in person.

What, exactly, do you think is wrong with it? I think it looks pretty impeccable.

Nothing is wrong with it....its a classically cut suit. I just wonder if he needed to go bespoke to get something like this? Couldn't he have just picked up a RTW Canali or something for much, much cheaper?

I like Whnay's jacket, looks like the quarters are jutting open on his belt buckle, I hope its not that open normally?

Dr Huh? · Jan 10, 2010

I gotta tell ya, that's a fine looking suit.

whnay. · Jan 10, 2010

I agree - looks pretty damn good to me. Matt, tell him to get cuffs and loose the shoes (or at least polish them).

rnoldh · Jan 10, 2010

Originally Posted by mafoofan

I posted this in my blog, but since nobody reads it, I thought I'd repost here. My friend Jon recently had a suit made up by Raphael. I think it looks pretty damned good. Raphael had minimal input from my friend or me (I was there to control my friend, not Raphael). The cloth is Lesser 11 oz. worsted, in air force blue. The shirt is made by Paris shirtmakers--the collar needs tweaking (for some reason, they made it without any interlining). The tie is Charvet.

Feel free to comment here . . . or on my blog

.

As conservative as it gets ( down to the solid tie and straight across pocket square ). Black shoes too.

I like it a lot. Is your friend a lawyer perchance?

von Rothbart · Jan 10, 2010

Originally Posted by whnay.

I agree - looks pretty damn good to me. Matt, tell him to get cuffs and loose the shoes (or at least polish them).

+1. What's the deal with the shoes?

TheFoo · Jan 10, 2010

Originally Posted by jamesbond

Nothing is wrong with it....its a classically cut suit. I just wonder if he needed to go bespoke to get something like this? Couldn't he have just picked up a RTW Canali or something for much, much cheaper?
Well, in my opinion it's actually quite difficult to achieve 'nothing wrong'. Almost all RTW, no matter how well it fits, is noticeably wrong in some way. After all, bespoke isn't supposed to deliver unicorns and pots of gold, just an excellent suit.

Originally Posted by whnay.

I agree - looks pretty damn good to me. Matt, tell him to get cuffs and loose the shoes (or at least polish them).
The cuffs are there--it's not just clear in the photos. It took an afternoon of arguing with him to get them added. Do you have an A&S thread on here? I was looking for it to add your photo to. He's stubborn about the shoes.

Originally Posted by rnoldh

I like it a lot. Is your friend a lawyer perchance?
Nope. Finance.

KObalto · Jan 10, 2010

Too much knot, too much break, not loving the shoes, but the suit is nice.

TheFoo · Jan 10, 2010

Originally Posted by KObalto

Too much knot, too much break, not loving the shoes, but the suit is nice.

I think the break is in the realm of correct, although he could lose some if he likes. He might just need to adjust his braces.

I hate big knots, but this one looks perfectly right sized to me. It's just a four-in-hand.

literasyme · Jan 10, 2010

I think it looks OK, but undistinguished. I'm also a bit puzzled by what looks like quite a bit of excess fabric under the arms -- the fabric doesn't seem to drape very well there at all, and it looks like there's some kind of bunching going on around the waist that I wouldn't fuss about in RTW, but that in a bespoke jacket I find troubling.

ferguscan · Jan 10, 2010

Originally Posted by KObalto

Too much knot, too much break, not loving the shoes, but the suit is nice.

The tie knot is perfect, IMO. I only wish I could tie knots like that with all my ties.

Stuart

bowtielover · Jan 10, 2010

I think the suit is a great fit for him, the jacket dose need a good pressing but he dose look rather dapper in it.

New Raphael suit (not mine)

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