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New Raphael suit (not mine) - Page 15

post #211 of 482
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomasso View Post
Moo, take away either his smoke or his mirrors...but not both; the kid needs something to defend himself with.

What thing this person smoke? Mirror is for cocaine?
post #212 of 482
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
The person who drew those lines admitted that they may not indicate problems after I explained my opinion. How do you always manage to be so stupendously wrong?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Moo View Post
He continued to say that it looks sloppy, which is probably not what someone wants in a bespoke jacket, military style or not.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
So, because someone posted criticisms of a suit that I think looks good, that he later rescinded, and then called it sloppy, my judgment must be wrong or biased? I'd rather lack height than sense.
He has a name, you know.

And you haven't fairly represented what I said, Foo. Although I admitted that the severe waist suppression may not have been a tailoring error, I was far from admitting it was a success. The same goes for the chest which continues to look saggy to me. It may be more swelled than vox's Steeds, but that's only defensible if the end result is aesthetically pleasing. Here it's not clear that it is.

Elements of design aren't justified just because "that's the way they're supposed to be." If that were the case, tailors and SAs around the could rejoice as they slap ill-fitting suits onto their clients whilst assuring them that the effect is intentional.
post #213 of 482
Quote:
Originally Posted by furo View Post
My point was more of: if the purpose and intent is to have a utility suit, then why go the $5k route if the intent is met with a cheaper alternative achieved by RTW + competent tailoring? From what you and others have stated, it seems you're caught up in the means (rather than the end result), i.e. the "process" of going bespoke, and that principle in of itself I find absurd. But again, that's just me. I'm one of those guys who says, "Hey, if I can get a great steak at Outback for $15, I'm not going to spend $50 at a fancy restaurant for the same steak so that I can enjoy the "experience" of fine dining..."
Ugh. If whnay's jackets are replete with 'errors', then to my eye, they are interesting, if not beautiful errors. Think Kate Moss' wide set eyes. Or Nicole Kidman's forehead. Or Angelina Jolie's entire face. I don't accept that vertical lines have to be parallel to each other or horizontal lines have to be parallel to the floor for a jacket to be 'beautiful'. 'Correct', maybe. 'Beautiful', no.
post #214 of 482
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
Here it is shortly before it died:



We all dressed that way. RSS, me, maybe iammatt and Manton (Californians, though, so maybe not as completely)...as boys. It was American and equalizing.

Our mutual friend FNB has an article on his site that captures the mood of this very well.

I forget where, but there were scans of guys just walking around Grand Central in the 70s...anyone recall where these were? That was NYC before the ruined 80s look.

I should scan and post a couple photographs from TIME magazine before college and then freshman year...in the pre-collegiate shot, it was in a street protest. But I'm in a BB Golden Fleece three piece suit and what we call a No.2 BB repp tie. The other, from 1982, I'm in college...I'm in a BB Golden Fleece "blazer" with envelope patch pockets, and a print bowtie that I still wear to this day.

Today, it is a social niche look. Back then, though...well, I am nostalgic.


- B

I wore the "uniform" too, but by the early 80s, long after college and graduate
school, I was wearing Norman Hilton and Chipp MTM, Ivy- based but evolved;
Two button shaped jackets sometimes with side vents. I had abandoned BB
some years before because it was "dull" and didn't suit my build. I never went
the Gordon Gecko route,however. I still dress more or less the same way.
post #215 of 482
Today, it is a social niche look. Back then, though...well, I am nostalgic.


- B[/quote]

Come to think of it, it was a social niche look before it became the
"uniform" Pre - early 1950s the style was largely confined to Ivy
grads and the respectable classes of the Northeast and Yankee
outposts in San Francisco, Chicago, etc and those who emulated
them. I am old enough to remember when the Ivy look swept
menswear.
post #216 of 482
Aportony's suit is the way I hope my future suits can look. Nothing catches my eye because its just a well fitted suit which works well with his body type (unsure why he didn't add a vest )

Mafoofan's pals suit looks uninspiring. The Roman silhouette mixed with the skimpy lapels and low 2 button stance jacket do not appear flattering on him.

Does anyone believe perhaps a 3rd button or a vest might have transformed the overall look to something better for his body type?

As to Whnay's jackets, would like to see pics of non Rubinacci/A&S suits jackets on him as a point of comparison.

'
post #217 of 482
Just thought I'd do a side-by-side comparison.
post #218 of 482
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Ay329 View Post
Aportony's suit is the way I hope my future suits can look. Nothing catches my eye because its just a well fitted suit which works well with his body type (unsure why he didn't add a vest )


Thanks Michael (and everyone else) for the kind words.

The suit does have a vest but IIRC, it was too warm to wear it on that particular day.
post #219 of 482
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
Did you read the link? It's become a bunch of guys who post on the Internet to proclaim their superiority to other guys on the Internet. If I want to read that, I always have your threads here, which make much the same point but with greater subtlety and a lot more wit.

You lovable dork.


- B
post #220 of 482
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Ay329 View Post
Aportony's suit is a well fitted suit which works well with his body type

yep +1
post #221 of 482
Quote:
Originally Posted by whnay. View Post

I'm digging that Tie Knot, Aport's suit rocks, TR's Chan is superb Foo's friend's suit looks And TR paid how much less for his suit? hmmm....
post #222 of 482
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soph View Post
I'm digging that Tie Knot, Aport's suit rocks, TR's Chan is superb Foo's friend's suit looks And TR paid how much less for his suit? hmmm....

What reactivated you? Vitamins?


- B
post #223 of 482
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
What reactivated you? Vitamins? - B
I'm cheating on my girlfriend. She thought I'd lost it when reading threads just like this.
post #224 of 482
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soph View Post
I'm cheating on my girlfriend She thought I'd lost it when reading threads just like this.

That's why you should read this forvm on the toilet, door closed, like most do.

Run the faucet also.


- B
post #225 of 482
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
That's why you should read this forvm on the toilet, door closed, like most do. Run the faucet also. - B
And clear the browser history. "You paid what for these shoes?" What are these wooden things that go into your shoes? What is this (Vass) wooden shoe puzzle? Why do you have 7 pairs of brown shoes? haha
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