I have had MTM and true bespoke experiences.
- Hickey Freeman--3 suits
- Oxxford--1 suit
- Local custom tailor--1 suit
With all of the above, measurements were made by a tailor in the store. (It seemed as if they measured things I did not know existed!) The cutting and sewing were all done in the factory. When the final product arrived, small details were tweaked by the local tailor. The fit on all the suits is great. With MTM, I was able to select the fabric, color, and style. Small things such as slanted pockets, side vents, ticket pocket, working sleeve buttons, and vests were nice touches. (I should add that the fabric of the Oxxford suit is exquisite. Most of the construction, I'm told, is all by hand.)
Last year, I found a wonderful tailor who can make a suit "from scratch". He did all the cutting and sewing. Several months after the initial measurements, I came for the first fitting. I was horrified. What I saw was stitching and exposed fabric without any lining. (The tailor, by the way, convinced me to get a wine red lining.) The tailor, a perfectionist, spent an hour pinning and measuring. A month later, the suit was nearly done, and it was a thing of beauty. More tweaking and fine tuning. A few weeks later, the finished suit was "ready". Needless to say, it has become my favorite suit.
As nice as my MTM suits are, there is a difference in the fit of the bespoke. The look of the bespoke suit is sleek and elegant in every detail. And I love the color of the lining, too.
The cost of the bespoke suit was not much more than the MTM from Hickey Freeman--and less than the MTM suit from Oxxford! The tailor is a man who came to the US from Poland (years ago) and has been making suits for more than 50 years. A true artisan and gentleman.