Quote:
Originally Posted by
SField 
I don't think a truffle tastes better than basically any other fine piece of produce. I don't think that its price is at all justified, and if its price were comparable to porcini, I still wouldn't find it vastly superior to similarly priced products. It's the kind of thing that takes imagination out of menus and it's just such a cop out. I'm amazed and pleasantly surprised if a tasting menu avoids it, especially in season.
there are just too many variables. first of all, i would almost NEVER pay the rate for truffles in this country. I can count on one hand the times I've had really good ones. And you're right that they are a cop-out. they've become like parsley ... mainly there for their looks and the imputed luxury.
THAT SAID, back in the good old days, I lucked into being in alba for the truffle fair two or three falls, and those white truffles are among the most amazing things i've ever smelled or tasted. i remember walking down the main street in alba, really cold, see your breath cold, and half a block ahead of me someone came out of a mushroom/truffle store and when they opened the door, i could smell it from that far away. the difference between those truffles and almost every truffle i've had in this country is like the difference between an Edward Weston original and a picture that's been xeroxed out of a book a half-dozen times. truly an astonishing perfume.
is it better than any other produce item? that's hard to say. it's an old foodie game to wonder which would be more valuable given similar scarcity, an onion or a truffle ... and a great tomato or a great peach (or apple, or pear or any of a dozen things) is amazing. but I would certainly put a great white truffle up there with any of them. now, whether they're worth the crapshoot and the extravagent prices they go for these days is another matter entirely.