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New suits, alterations, overseas tailors - HELP!

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
My last 3 suits have come from a travelling Hong Kong tailor - JAI Tailor.

Both of them have looked great, but the fit on a couple of them haven't been crash hot. My local tailor who does fantastic work chastised me over the work, telling me you get what you pay for. I took the jacket from a single breasted, 2 button, single vent jacket as it wasn't giving me that nice hugging feeling. Basically there was too much material in the small of my back, not enough around the posterior, and the roll of the lapels into the top button wasn't quite right. But, that's all fixable.

Prices for a two trouser suit have been around AU$600, which is pretty decent IMHO for what I'm getting. What's the general consensus on price, quality, etc?

Anyway, I'd be happy to get another and have selected some material already. However, I want him to get it right without having to restructure it. Should I send him the jacket that I had the work done on to model it off.

Also, how does one go about using an online service where the tailor will not ever meet me? I don't feel confident about measuring myself and getting it right! Also, I want a more narrow leg on my next suit, something a little more sharper... but as I mentioned I'm just not that comfortable.

Any suggestions welcomed!
post #2 of 11
Thread Starter 
Bueller?

I'm really interested in some of the tailors mentioned here - Jantzen and Chang for example and would love to get some new kit, but the whole measurement thing is what worries me.
post #3 of 11
If you want to continue using this outfit, then send them the locally altered suit for reference. You can also specify exactly what changes you want, but this requires a reasonable amount of knowledge. I personally wouldn't use a long distance tailor having never seen them, as opposed to a shirtmaker like Jantzen. Suits are complex and more expensive than shirts which makes the sting of having to take a couple tries before getting it right more painful. And they can't be covered up like a shirt. I don't think Jantzen or Chan will do suits via mail order because the chances of them making a good product are too low and of having a seriously dissatisfied customer too high. Those two outfits stand by their work.
post #4 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by whoopee
If you want to continue using this outfit, then send them the locally altered suit for reference. You can also specify exactly what changes you want, but this requires a reasonable amount of knowledge.

I personally wouldn't use a long distance tailor having never seen them, as opposed to a shirtmaker like Jantzen. Suits are complex and more expensive than shirts which makes the sting of having to take a couple tries before getting it right more painful. And they can't be covered up like a shirt.

I don't think Jantzen or Chan will do suits via mail order because the chances of them making a good product are too low and of having a seriously dissatisfied customer too high. Those two outfits stand by their work.

I'm more looking in the shirt realm I suppose. The service I've been using to date makes decent shirts, but they're a little tent-ish and I want something tapered and more slimline.

So, the next question is... what measurements do I need and is there either a point of contact or website, and perhaps somewhere where I can see some examples of the cloth they use?
post #5 of 11
For shirts: www.jantzentailor.com Hundreds of fabric photos and a detailed, clear order form.
post #6 of 11
where in Australia are you? Jantzen is www.jantzentailor.com and they have a lot of shirt fabrics up there. Post here for reviews, youll probably find someone with whichever one you are interested in. I think Askandy has a thread on Jantzen cloth reviews. Measurement wise, be prepared to write off one or two... As for suits online, I know Jovan is pretty happy with the suits he gets at Barons Boutique, Ravi gets mixed reviews for his online stuff, other internet tailors, dunno.
post #7 of 11
Thread Starter 
I'm in Sydney.

Any idea on ballpark cost for shirts?
post #8 of 11
~au$60
post #9 of 11
Thread Starter 
Sounds good. I have to haggle to get them to AU$75 as it stands with my current guy.

Thanks for the info... going to start looking into it and get someone to measure me up I guess.
post #10 of 11
I think you can measure your existing shirt and let Jantzen know that its a shirt measurement not a body measurement. Someone else should be able to confirm that - ive always bought in store from jantzen when I visit Hong Kong, but I believe Ive seen posts here to that effect.
post #11 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by m@T
I think you can measure your existing shirt and let Jantzen know that its a shirt measurement not a body measurement.

Someone else should be able to confirm that - ive always bought in store from jantzen when I visit Hong Kong, but I believe Ive seen posts here to that effect.

Cool. I'd probably take a photo of me wearing a specific shirt and then take several of the shirt and overlay measurements. See how that goes. At ~AU$60 it's worth a punt.
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