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st crispins vs vass - Page 2

post #16 of 156
Quote:
Originally Posted by grimslade View Post
Everyone knows a seamless wholecut can't be made.

There are seams, but they're placed quite cleverly.
post #17 of 156
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrigglez View Post
how do they do that...its magic!

Quote:
Originally Posted by grimslade View Post
Everyone knows a seamless wholecut can't be made.

Easy!.........(for those who can).

The damp (or even wet) leather gets pulled over the last and fixed with nails underneath. before anything is cut out of the hide. While the leather dries, it "˜memorizes' the shape. That process is called "˜blocking'(English), or "˜crimping' (American').

Here is the trial (from a waste section) to see how that particular leather reacted:



And here are the finished uppers:



Quote:
Originally Posted by Chips View Post
Holy fucking shit!!!!
post #18 of 156
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post
Easy!.........(for those who can).

The damp (or even wet) leather gets pulled over the last and fixed with nails underneath. before anything is cut out of the hide. While the leather dries, it "˜memorizes' the shape. That process is called "˜blocking'(English), or "˜crimping' (American').

Here is the trial (from a waste section) to see how that particular leather reacted:

Why don't more people do it this way?
post #19 of 156
Both look great.

bengal-stripe, who made those wholecuts?
post #20 of 156
Quote:
Originally Posted by fcuknu View Post
Is there anything more sexy in the world than a seemless wholecut?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrigglez View Post
how do they do that...its magic!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chips View Post
Holy fucking shit!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire View Post
There are seams, but they're placed quite cleverly.

The seams are in the inner side which conveniently not being shown.
post #21 of 156
Quote:
Originally Posted by grimslade View Post
Everyone knows a seamless wholecut can't be made.

You can make exactly four from every cow.
post #22 of 156
Quote:
Originally Posted by CunningSmeagol View Post
You can make exactly four from every cow.

Working on pair #2...

post #23 of 156
OMG someone got it!
post #24 of 156
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post
Working on pair #2...


These are eligible for purchase under the USDA's allowable food stamp purchases.
post #25 of 156
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post
These are eligible for purchase under the USDA's allowable food stamp purchases.

Someone's getting crimped !
post #26 of 156
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post
I own both and would give an edge to St Crispin on leather quality, finish and overall construction. I'd give Vass the nod on lasts (haven't found a SC last as attractive as U), customer service and value for money.

They're about the same. I really like SC's classic last, but I also like all the Vass lasts, each in their own way.

SC is a bit lighter on the foot.

As for service, I've only bought Vass at retail (at Louis) or through the usual intermediaries. For Saint Crispin's, I've dealt with Phillip Car directly (well, by email), and found him attentive, expert and a person who loves what he sells.

- B
post #27 of 156
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip1978 View Post
Why don't more people do it this way?

Because a great many shoemakers are of the opinion that the enormous stress which lasts on the leather makes the resulting shoe less sturdy. Plus it's quite tricky to repair.
post #28 of 156
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sterling Gillette View Post
Because a great many shoemakers are of the opinion that the enormous stress which lasts on the leather makes the resulting shoe less sturdy. Plus it's quite tricky to repair.

I'll reserve my praise for the first seamless wholecut that is inclusive of a sole, sort of like a little bag that's tied around each foot.

I freely give this million dollar idea to Ron Rider.


- B
post #29 of 156
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
As for service, I've only bought Vass at retail (at Louis) or through the usual intermediaries. For Saint Crispin's, I've dealt with Phillip Car directly (well, by email), and found him attentive, expert and a person who loves what he sells.
I have the inverse experience. Bought the SC via retailer and most of my Vass directly from the store. Although there has been one instance of a small QC issue, customer service was excellent and everything was resolved to my satisfaction.
post #30 of 156
The sole treatment and instep of the St. Crispins I've seen have been really great - nothing like the Vass I've handled.
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