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Looking to tailor a dual-use jacket

post #1 of 16
Thread Starter 
Hey folks,
I'm looking to tailor a charcoal colored jacket for use in both a business setting and for dressy-casual occasions. Perhaps something along the lines of this:



Hoping you can help me out here. I'm looking at something relatively slim so is there anything I should mention to my tailor on top of the following?

- Double vents
- Two button
- Narrow lapels (How narrow can I go without it being too informal?)
- High armholes (How high do I go? I read somewhere on SF that its the height between my thumb and little finger extended?)
- What do you recommend I specify with regards to pockets?


Also, I live in Singapore which is perenially scorching. So ideally I'm looking for something quite lightweight. I've read about Thomas Mason cotton and David & John Anderson but the former seems quite pricey and I don't know any tailors here who carry the latter.

Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!
post #2 of 16
Thread Starter 
Oh and yes if anyone can help on top of this, where should the suit end (which part of the bottom) and can I ask for a Neapolitan-esque padding?
post #3 of 16
Do you already own similar jackets at all, or is this your first foray into tailored clothing generally?
post #4 of 16
Thread Starter 
First foray, yup.
post #5 of 16
Thread Starter 
Any body, please?
post #6 of 16
My only suggestions are to not go with a lapel as skinny as the model is wearing, and to not get besom pockets like he has. I think besom pockets are better off on more formal jackets. As far as the length, most will tell you it should come to the first joint of your fingers. For something that slim with smaller lapels, you could probably get a way with it being a little shorter than that if you like.
post #7 of 16
Blue rather than gray.
post #8 of 16
Mohair for tropical climate. And avoid Joe's.
post #9 of 16
Thread Starter 
Thanks folks.

Is around 2" for a lapel too narrow? I'm probably looking at a notched one.

I'll be looking closely at mohair, thanks for the suggestion!

If somebody and just help with the armholes and shoulder padding queries, I'll be off to the tailor soon
post #10 of 16
2 inch is most definitely too narrow. Armholes and shoulder padding is a matter of negotiation with your tailor. You'll find out if you've won or lost when you collect the suit.
post #11 of 16
Thread Starter 
Ok folks, thanks for all the help. Just got a bespoke 2 piece charcoal made the other day. 2 3/4 inch lapels. Double vent, two button. Thought screw it about the climate (since I travel a bit), and got a Super 130 wool. Fitting next Tuesday. Anything besides the usual (high and tight armholes, back doesn't crumple, jacket stays on shirt collar, length at first joint of thumb) that I should be looking for? Cheers.
post #12 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbc View Post
Just got a bespoke 2 piece charcoal made the other day. 2 3/4 inch lapels. Double vent, two button. Thought screw it about the climate (since I travel a bit), and got a Super 130 wool. Fitting next Tuesday.

Anything besides the usual (high and tight armholes, back doesn't crumple, jacket stays on shirt collar, length at first joint of thumb) that I should be looking for?

The lapels are still rather narrow. Men do not follow the fashions.

As for fit, there's no reason to measure length by the thumb. Arm length varies too much. If it doesn't cover your bum, it's too short. Substantially more, and it's too long. Trust the tailor on this one.

Finally, a charcoal suit jacket will never be anything but a charcoal suit jacket. It is certainly not a dual-use item.
post #13 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by amplifiedheat View Post
The lapels are still rather narrow. Men do not follow the fashions.

As for fit, there's no reason to measure length by the thumb. Arm length varies too much. If it doesn't cover your bum, it's too short. Substantially more, and it's too long. Trust the tailor on this one.

Finally, a charcoal suit jacket will never be anything but a charcoal suit jacket. It is certainly not a dual-use item.

Thank you for your comments, I'll bear that in mind when I go for the fitting.

WRT to the dual-use comment, I think what I meant by that was a suit that's suitable for work and other occasions, like a suit-up occasion at a club. No going to pair it with jeans
post #14 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbc View Post
Thank you for your comments, I'll bear that in mind when I go for the fitting.

WRT to the dual-use comment, I think what I meant by that was a suit that's suitable for work and other occasions, like a suit-up occasion at a club. No going to pair it with jeans

Glad to hear it. Suit up!
post #15 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbc View Post

Also, I live in Singapore which is perenially scorching. So ideally I'm looking for something quite lightweight. I've read about Thomas Mason cotton and David & John Anderson but the former seems quite pricey and I don't know any tailors here who carry the latter.

Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!

These are brands of shirting fabrics not cloth for suits.
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