Originally Posted by Wes Bourne
Iirc, most/all my rtw shoes and boots had some heel spring when new. Only the front of the heel and an area near the ball of the foot make contact on a flat surface. This might explain why:
Originally Posted by Imakeyourshoes
always taught to make the heel flat, some companies do not build their own heels up, they buy pre made from outside companies, you can request certain dimensions but when you have so many different lasts being used, each with different heel pitch and toe spring size its never going to fit all the lasts perfectly, some places scour it flat after putting the first heel piece on and then building up from there, some places just scour the top piece flat, but it should be made flat either way, but most places are hammering out as many pairs as possible and just putting pre made's on, sometimes ive noticed that when heeling a pair of bespoke hand welted shoes that having the shank and filler in only a shallow depression in the insole gives it that extra bit of shape that can make the front of the heel lower than the back, which doesnt have the shank, only the upper thickness, could possibly be why those rather expensive shoes posted have the wrong pitch on the heel, its only a problem if you feel it though when you walk i guess
I wouldn't put it past many of the lower end manufacturers to be indifferent to heel pitch.
Nevertheless, I'm not buying that this is a critical or even the main reason a shoe sits on the breast edge after having been worn a while. If nothing else, even buying pre-made stacks is no great impediment to leveling the heel base while the shoe is being made..
More then that, however, I have seen shoes that I knew
were built with a level, flat heel sit on the breast edge after being off the last for some time. And these were shoes with a good spring steel shank in them.
Despite all that, without the original last...even if there is some real distortion that has occurred during wear...the cobbler is guessing
how much to remove from the breast of the heel. The chances of simply making both heel identical in height are slim ti none.
I don't believe anything should be removed unless the repairman has done such an amateurish job as to leave the outsole thicker under the breast of the heel that it originally was. In any case, this would only apply to full sole jobs where a splice was situated under the heel.
Barring that, if nothing
is removed the shoe ends up fitting and feeling like it did when it was made. But in the absence of the original last, if any material is removed, the shoe is taken out of its original configuration and will never fit as it was designed to fit again.Edited by DWFII - 8/6/11 at 8:20am