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Hong Kong Tailor Report - Peter Lee, Chan, Jantzen, Zee's and Tassels

post #1 of 79
Thread Starter 
Hi Guys,

As some of you know I was recently over in Hong Kong for business. In case you're interested, the fine wine market is very strong over there! Of course, a trip to HK wouldn't be complete without visiting some of the city's top tailors.

After discussing my impending trip with the HK iBlokes, Gazman thought it would be best to introduce me to Lee Baron who has been making wonderful clothes for decades. His shop is in Kowloon in the Far East Arcade a 7 minute walk from the Star Ferry. Since I knew I was going to be ordering numerous items I headed there an hour after I checked in to my hotel.

Peter Lee who runs the shop was incredibly gracious from the beginning. His English is excellent making communication straightforward and efficient. I had some Harrisons Moonbeam and P&H Corduroy shipped over from Andrew Rogers and I located some H&S navy Fresco. To start with so Peter would know my pattern I ordered a bright navy linen jacket from a book the guys like. In fact, both PG and Toilet Duck have items made with this fabric it turns out! The details were notch lapel, 3-2 roll, 3 patch pockets, double vent and smoke MOP buttons. At the basted fitting the jacket was a bit big all around, but was quickly slimmed down. At the second fitting the back was puffing out which needed to be taken in. yfyf so eloquently said I looked almost like a hunchback. :^)

Once I determined Peter understood what I was going for with fit we went over the details of my 3 other garments. They are as follows with photos below. Now before launching into nitpicky critical details, keep in mind I've come to realize that perfection in clothes - even bespoke - is pretty unrealistic. There are always things in hindsight we would have done differently and how envisioned wearing the outfit rarely comes out as intended.

My apologies for the grainy photos, but it's the best I can do at this point. The combination of my long legs and the photo angle makes most of the jackets appear on the shorter side which is a bit annoying. I assure you that all jackets cover my rear and when unbuttoned hang a touch longer in the front. Constructive criticism is always welcome. And yes, my right shoulder does hang lower than my left.

Blue Linen Jacket made from Peter Lee house fabric - notch lapel, 3 - 2 roll, 3 patch pockets (wish small pocket inside right waist patch pocket), soft shoulder, double vent, smoke MOP buttons, quarter lined with cotton gingham - overall I'm pretty happy with this for a first jacket. My only complaint is that it flairs out a bit at the hips which I may try and solve one of these days. I'll wear it a bit more first. I generally always wear it unbuttoned so it has a loose feel to it anyway. It's nice and comfortable and the color is fantastic.

Harrisons Moonbeam blue with red checks - notch lapel, 3 button, 3 patch pockets, soft shoulder with some padding, double vent, horn buttons - I love this fabric. It feels like cashmere and has an airy, light quality about it. It also has great give when I move. I find the colors work with most anything in my wardrobe which is a major plus. I've got to not wear this as much so I don't run it down! I'm not sure what's going on with the rippling on my right side above the patch pocket as that's not normally there.

Holland & Sherry Navy Fresco 3 piece suit - jacket: notch lapel, 2 button, 2 patch pockets with welt breast, soft shoulder with some padding, double vent, horn buttons. Trousers: single outward facing pleat, silver side straps, squared off waistband, 1.75 inch cuffs - Great fabric here as well. It has a slightly softer hand than Minnis and the blue is a bit brighter. Really nice stuff. As Peter mentioned when it was done while looking at my back "fits like a glove!" I wear the jacket a lot on its own hence some shots wearing odd trousers. The DB waistcoat was inspired by some of yfyf's, but I chose no shawl collar and no pockets to go with the casual vibe of the patch pockets.

Porter & Harding Brown Corduroy 3 piece suit - jacket: notch lapel, 2 button, slightly angled pockets with ticket pocket, welt breast, soft shoulder with some padding, double vent, horn buttons. Trousers: flat front, gold side straps, squared off waistband, 1.5 inch cuffs. Vest: 6 button with 4 pockets - Here we ran into some problems. The primary issue being that the fabric seems to like to shrink in on itself. Everything about the suit was clearly tighter and raised upwards a bit after I wore it once. Peter was perplexed and when I brought it in for alterations he mentioned it was clearly smaller than before. I think it still needs some more alterations as even the jacket length is now shorter than originally intended. The vest also clearly needs to be lowered enough (if possible) so I can wear it with odd trousers without the belt showing. Very strange and I'm curious if anyone has ever had similar issues with bespoke corduroy clothing. Back to the suit, I plan on wearing each piece interchangeably or together and took photos as such.

And now onto the suit I had made my WW Chan. I was measured and chose the specifics at Chan's NY visit this Spring. Patrick was very down to earth and understanding of what I was after. I came in for my basted fitting and there were some noticeable changes that needed to be made, but after a few more fittings we had a great garment I was happy to take home with me. I think it's clear from this photos that this is the nicest suit of the lot. The silhouette is fantastic and it fits like a dream. I don't understand how they made something so fitted yet feeling like pajamas. In hindsight, I'd probably change a few minor things like getting the welt pocket a half inch higher and the arms a bit slimmer, but that's just me looking for faults.

Minnis Air Force Blue Woolen Flannel DB suit - 6 buttons, peak lapel (I requested a slight touch slimmer than standard), medium shoulder structure, flap pockets that will primarily be tucked in, double vent, horn buttons

In summary, if you're looking for a special suit, Chan is the place. Peter Lee offers spectacular value and I will continue to use him regularly for odd jackets and more casual suits. But for something truly luxurious on occasion, it's tough to beat Chan. Below is a better photo of the fabrics lined up together.

I also had a chance to visit Zee's Leather which is in the same arcade as Peter Lee. I picked up a wonderful case that I now use regularly. The color is more chestnut/bridle tan in real life. Excellent quality. They had tons of other high quality bags. I wasn't enamored with their shoes, but perhaps one day I'll give them a whirl if I'm in town more than a week for a bespoke pair.

Be sure to stop by Tassels and say hi to Walneal. Amazing selection of Edward Greens among others. It was astounding to see a wall full of bright green shoe boxes! Unfortunately all the widths were in E so I couldn't grab anything. Well worth a visit.

And finally, how can one go to Hong Kong and not have shirts made up? I used Peter Lee, Chan and Jantzen. Not surprisingly, Chan's is the highest quality, but they also charged the most. Basically NY custom shirt prices while Peter and Jantzen were in the $40 - 55 range. I definitely give the edge to Peter over Jantzen, but both work well depending on who has the fabric you desire.

All in all an amazing trip. Can't wait to go back!
post #2 of 79
Thanks for the great post, D. Photos in daylight would be wonderful if you have the time. I like all your choices, but the brown cord suit is pretty dang cool. I'd like to take a trip to HK in the near future.
post #3 of 79
Originally Posted by Parker View Post
Thanks for the great post, D. Photos in daylight would be wonderful if you have the time.

I like all your choices, but the brown cord suit is pretty dang cool.
I'd like to take a trip to HK in the near future.

Yeah the cord suit is awsome
post #4 of 79
Thread Starter 
^ Thanks guys! I just wish it fit better! Aargh. I have faith that it will eventually after some more work. It's just heavy lugging that thing around in a garment bag half way across the world.
post #5 of 79
Thread Starter 
And I'm sure daylight photos will make their appearances in WAYWN posts in the upcoming weeks...
post #6 of 79
What's the pricing like with Peter Lee?
post #7 of 79
Thread Starter 
With buying the fabric from Harrisons or Holland & Sherry plus labor for the suit the total package from start to finish was around $550 per suit. Pretty good buy if you ask me!
post #8 of 79
Very nice! Thanks for posting. It was really kind of the HK guys to show you around. I hear they are very generous in that way. And I hope to make a similar report in the next year or so.
post #9 of 79
Very nice haul. The Zee's case looks pretty good as well!
post #10 of 79
All of the Lee's jackets waistline are not smooth when buttoned.
post #11 of 79
Thanks for this post; very interesting not least because I have lived in HK 7 years and never heard of Baron. Can any HK customers report on his fabric stock and how much for say a blazer and suit using his fabrics?
post #12 of 79
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys! Fishball - I see that on the Fresco and the slightest bit on the linen. I'll check those again later. The others seem fine to be when I use a leveler on the photos. Thanks for the feedback.
post #13 of 79
Thanks for taking the time to share all those photos. The Chan suit does appear to have the best fit of the bunch. It looks like your tailored wardrobe grew dramatically while in HK.
post #14 of 79
Thread Starter 
ApplesHK - The majority of fabrics at Peter Lee's don't excite me too much. He has some fun things, but generally not at the level of Harrisons and H&S which I outsourced. His book of linens is especially good though. DandySF - yeah, it just about doubled while I was there!
post #15 of 79
Awesome report, thank you very much.
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