Yikes, you're right. Many of his are simply unstructured.
I was thinking about going for it on my next jacket.
Thanks for the guidance. I am putting in my first custom order with KW (and am also not particularly knowledgable about shoulder options or structure options).
As mentioned earlier ITT - ordering a dark-grey/versatile/business/evening event/funeral appropriate suit (as context). Leaning more towards "Soft" structure (lighter interlining) and "Soft" shoulder (vs "Standard" for both the Structure and Shoulder) per Aaron's suggestion.
(I like the clean look of the unstructured KW jacket, and per their tumblr looks like most of the photos are of unstructured jackets - but think it might not work best for my frame and the more conservative nature of this particular suit.)
Do you, or anyone else, have any guidance on choosing between Soft and Standard based on the suit I am looking to get made up?
It's really preference. There's an argument to be made in an Anglo-American context that a formal charcoal suit lends itself to more structure, but I don't think that's binding.
As far as what Kent Wang does well, I've tried three of Kent's shoulder expressions: standard (trial suit), soft (my first jacket), and unpadded (my second jacket). I didn't love the standard shoulder, but have been very happy with both the soft and unpadded shoulder options. I slightly prefer the unpadded option's feel when worn, but I think the soft shoulder probably looks better on me (especially the back).
For canvassing, I've likewise gone with both the standard and soft canvas options on different jackets. The soft canvas is a revelation and wears slightly more comfortably, and I'm likely to opt for that going forward, but it also "corrects" for less.
Bottom line: I'd recommend following Aaron's advice (soft canvas/soft shoulder). In this day and age, a well-made, well-fitting charcoal suit will serve your needs, and while purists might find the softer construction less formal, that's unlikely to be a real-world problem, and it's more than compensated for by the comfort of wearing a more lightly-constructed garment.
Soft shoulder/standard canvas:
Unpadded shoulder/soft canvas:
This is a very lightweight (7.5 oz) fabric, but notice how the softer construction shows a bit more rippling? If you're going to be bothered by that, the standard canvas is a safer bet. Otherwise, the lighter canvas is a winner.
heldentenor - wow, thank you so much for such a thorough, and helpful, response! Very much appreciated. Such great info.
Based on your photos, and memory of the Trial Suit (which I forgot but now recall has the standard shoulder, thanks for mentioning), I will definitely go soft shoulder. I do also see the slight "rippling" on the soft canvas, but as the material I'm getting is not that lightweight, think I'll go soft canvas as well for the more comfortable interlining.
The jacket looks great. I'd recommend shortening the sleeves a hair. The pants seem to have some problems. Especially at the back thigh.
This is a great outcome for a 1st jacket. You have a large/built chest shoulder girdle, which often leads to a lot of problems, including bulging lapels and front - back length/balance issues. Those look appropriately corrected for here, which is not easy. I would agree the upper arms look tight which may be impacting the look of the back of the sleeve. Some adjustment to sleeve width or pitch may make sense. I'm not knowledgeable enough to know exactly what. I would lower the button point next time, but it looks well within the range now. If you do lower it, you may want a touch more waist suppression, but I'd leave that to a local tailor after you get it the next jacket with a lower button. Easy and cheap adjustment to be made locally. Pants do look like they need more room. I suspect you are a pretty fit dude and likely have a strong/large posterior chain - you need more cloth to drape off of you butt, bottom line.
Let us know how that w/l blend wears. that cloth is on my radar. nice work!