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Kent Wang - Affiliate thread - Page 381

post #5701 of 5900
Quote:
Originally Posted by wigglr View Post

I heard the opposite that they shy away from the spalla camicia

Yikes, you're right. Many of his are simply unstructured.

I was thinking about going for it on my next jacket.
post #5702 of 5900
Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post
 

I would highly recommend the unpadded/unstructured option without camicia.  It's a very clean look, and all of my future KW jackets will have it. 


Thanks for the guidance.  I am putting in my first custom order with KW (and am also not particularly knowledgable about shoulder options or structure options).  

 

As mentioned earlier ITT - ordering a dark-grey/versatile/business/evening event/funeral appropriate suit (as context).  Leaning more towards  "Soft" structure (lighter interlining) and "Soft" shoulder (vs "Standard" for both the Structure and Shoulder) per Aaron's suggestion.

 

(I like the clean look of the unstructured KW jacket, and per their tumblr looks like most of the photos are of unstructured jackets - but think it might not work best for my frame and the more conservative nature of this particular suit.)

 

Do you, or anyone else, have any guidance on choosing between Soft and Standard based on the suit I am looking to get made up? 


Edited by AloysiusSF - 7/7/16 at 5:20pm
post #5703 of 5900

It's really preference.  There's an argument to be made in an Anglo-American context that a formal charcoal suit lends itself to more structure, but I don't think that's binding. 

 

As far as what Kent Wang does well, I've tried three of Kent's shoulder expressions: standard (trial suit), soft (my first jacket), and unpadded (my second jacket).  I didn't love the standard shoulder, but have been very happy with both the soft and unpadded shoulder options.  I slightly prefer the unpadded option's feel when worn, but I think the soft shoulder probably looks better on me (especially the back). 

 

For canvassing, I've likewise gone with both the standard and soft canvas options on different jackets. The soft canvas is a revelation and wears slightly more comfortably, and I'm likely to opt for that going forward, but it also "corrects" for less. 

 

Bottom line: I'd recommend following Aaron's advice (soft canvas/soft shoulder).  In this day and age, a well-made, well-fitting charcoal suit will serve your needs, and while purists might find the softer construction less formal, that's unlikely to be a real-world problem, and it's more than compensated for by the comfort of wearing a more lightly-constructed garment. 

 

Soft shoulder/standard canvas:

 

 

Unpadded shoulder/soft canvas:

 

 

This is a very lightweight (7.5 oz) fabric, but notice how the softer construction shows a bit more rippling?  If you're going to be bothered by that, the standard canvas is a safer bet.  Otherwise, the lighter canvas is a winner.

post #5704 of 5900

heldentenor - wow, thank you so much for such a thorough, and helpful, response!  Very much appreciated.  Such great info.  

 

Based on your photos, and memory of the Trial Suit (which I forgot but now recall has the standard shoulder, thanks for mentioning), I will definitely go soft shoulder.  I do also see the slight "rippling" on the soft canvas, but as the material I'm getting is not that lightweight, think I'll go soft canvas as well for the more comfortable interlining.

 

Thanks again!

post #5705 of 5900
Here's some full-length fit pics now that I've have the pants tailored.

Wide lapels, 3-2 roll, no shoulder padding, full canvas, half lined, linen/wool blend.

The lower back looks odd, but I checked on it throughout the day and the wrinkling/bunching seemed to fall out... Something I'll keep an eye on, though.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



post #5706 of 5900
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainTohm View Post

Here's some full-length fit pics now that I've have the pants tailored.

Wide lapels, 3-2 roll, no shoulder padding, full canvas, half lined, linen/wool blend.

The lower back looks odd, but I checked on it throughout the day and the wrinkling/bunching seemed to fall out... Something I'll keep an eye on, though. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



 

The jacket looks great.  I'd recommend shortening the sleeves a hair.  The pants seem to have some problems.  Especially at the back thigh.  

post #5707 of 5900

@heldentenor You have the ideal shoulders for either option IMHO. Too often you see guys with too much slope opt for unpadded (not so much in this thread) and it winds up less than flattering. I suppose it's the predictable backlash to the overstuffed suits of past decades.

post #5708 of 5900
^ I agree. For my next order, I'm planning on juuuuuust barely shorting the sleeves, dropping the buttoning point 1-1.5 cm, looking into some mobility issues with the jacket (the sleeves are very tight when I bend my arm, crossing my arms leads to tightness across the front my delts), and then trying to figure out what the hell is going on with the back of my pants. I don't mind a few lines running from the front of my thighs to the back of my knees, but this is a bit much.

Overall I'm very happy with my first order, and I'm planning on making several more orders through KW. I'm a very difficult OTR fit, and this jacket has been a revelation.
post #5709 of 5900

@CaptainTohm I wonder if letting the lower back out a touch would help the drape?

post #5710 of 5900
Aaron or Kent can help a lot with the pant fit. I'd recommend making them a good bit less slim while you're changing things up.
post #5711 of 5900
Quote:
Originally Posted by wigglr View Post

@CaptainTohm
 I wonder if letting the lower back out a touch would help the drape?

I was just about to recommend this. KW may also recommend altering the vents to clean the lower back up.
post #5712 of 5900
All good advice gents. I just emailed Aaron with these pictures and a couple in-action photos to exacerbate any fit issues.
post #5713 of 5900

This is a great outcome for a 1st jacket.  You have a large/built chest shoulder girdle, which often leads to a lot of problems, including bulging lapels and front - back length/balance issues.  Those look appropriately corrected for here, which is not easy.  I would agree the upper arms look tight which may be impacting the look of the back of the sleeve.  Some adjustment to sleeve width or pitch may make sense.  I'm not knowledgeable enough to know exactly what.  I would lower the button point next time, but it looks well within the range now.  If you do lower it, you may want a touch more waist suppression, but I'd leave that to a local tailor after you get it the next jacket with a lower button.  Easy and cheap adjustment to be made locally.  Pants do look like they need more room.  I suspect you are a pretty fit dude and likely have a strong/large posterior chain - you need more cloth to drape off of you butt, bottom line.

 

Let us know how that w/l blend wears.  that cloth is on my radar.  nice work!

post #5714 of 5900
Thanks for the feedback! I agree that the pants are a little slim still. I have a terrible time with pants, these are probably my second best fitting pair and they still have flaws. I'm hoping my next order will have a little better drape on the trousers, and I can have them replicated by Luxire. I'd be a happy man if I never had to buy OTR pants again.
post #5715 of 5900


KW mid-grey suit
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