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Kent Wang - Affiliate thread - Page 379

post #5671 of 5903

Look at the VBC four season book.  There is a nail head that is a shade lighter than charcoal that is very nice.  I'd post a picture but I keep having technical errors while trying to do so. 

post #5672 of 5903

Here is a picture of the fabric made up:

 

post #5673 of 5903

KW Suit arrived yesterday. Initial impressions are that the fit is better than I would have expected for a first try. Still, there are certainly some adjustments that need to be made. The back across the shoulder blades feels a bit tight, I'm guessing that this is causing some pulling at the sleeve head leading to the small divot over the right shoulder. Thinking of extending the shoulder and the upper back next time to alleviate this but I'll have to ask @Kent Wang what he thinks. Other things that need to be adjusted, sleeves are slightly long, button point needs to be lowered. Jacket length is spot on, which is nice because the 40R had to be lengthened quite a bit for me. The trousers fit wonderfully and I'm strongly considering going to KW frequently for trousers in the future. The sleeve pitch is pretty good. I have fairly straight hanging arms and I had a lot of bunching on the back of the sleeve with the trial suit, they did a good job of correcting it. Any other thoughts for adjustments that can be made for next time?

 

 

 

 

 

post #5674 of 5903

good stuff @Caustic Man:slayer: 

post #5675 of 5903

Yeah, I'd drop the buttoning point about 2 cm (in fact, I'd recommend all Kent Wang customers consider this when they do their initial fitting), and take up the sleeves just a touch.  Might want to nip the rear of the trousers right below the seat just a bit, too.  The trouser legs look perfect.  

 

I don't think I'd fuss with the upper back so much as extend the shoulder about 1 cm, but Aaron and Kent will have a better idea than I of what's going on there.  

 

Great color/fabric.  

post #5676 of 5903

Thanks for the advice. I was considering extending the shoulders as well but I wasn't sure.

post #5677 of 5903
What fabric?
post #5678 of 5903

Hi, new here. Found out about KW through the forum. Went to NY to visit -- had a great experience. I ended up ordering a trial suit (along with many other things), and was hoping for your comments. Aaron, has been extremely helpful and gracious with his time and recommendations. I feel bad tying him up with questions the way I have been; however, so I am hoping to better understand how certain alterations would change the fit. 

 

I am particularly focused on my shoulders, but I would love any input and chance to gain further knowledge. This is my first fully canvassed suit, and I don't ever want to take it off -- and it is only the trial! I see me getting a lot more of these in the future, so I would love to get it right. 

 

I am really lost about shoulders. I think the left looks great from the side and quite nice from the back (but perhaps better in another picture), whereas the right not so much in either scenario. I also wonder if I should go for more of an arm taper as the bicep has about 3cm excess and the forearm even more. Also, not sure how to deal with the differing sleeve lengths. I am debating getting non working buttons and getting that tailored afterwords. 

 

Interestingly, as I have had the suit for a few days, I notice it is overall looking better and better each time I put it on. Pulling down on the tail greatly helps set up the shoulders. The collar roll also disappears  when I do this. However, it returns when I let go. The shoulders remain improved. 

 

Here are the suggested changes:

 

Base SIZE 42
 
Shoulder width ok
Right shoulder -1 cm CHANGE TO: NO CHANGE
Left shoulder ok CHANGE TO  +1 cm
Lower collar -1 cm
Waist -0.5 cm, will be doubled CHANGE TO: NO CHANGE
Back -1 cm, will be doubled
Chest -0.5 cm, will be doubled
Button point -2 
Armhole ok
Bicep -1
Lower sleeve -0.5 cm, will be doubled
Length +2 cm
Sleeve length -1 cm
 
Thanks for the help! Hopefully it was an appropriately presented first post! 


 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

post #5679 of 5903

Do you have intensely unbalanced shoulders? It almost looks like you're leaning over to your right with the way the shoulders seem to be aligned.

post #5680 of 5903

Hi, Thanks for the reply. That is an interesting question. I do actually think I have a side bend going on in my oblique area (not on purpose--muscular/posture imbalances) and perhaps that makes the problem look much more dramatic. Maybe that is why shifting around the jacket makes it sit better. 

 

I will say that I definitely have a little bit more forward rounding in the right than the left, but I actually wear and undershirt that helps with that. 

post #5681 of 5903

The shoulder does pose a problem. This may be a case where you need one side built up a bit more than the other, which is probably outside the scope of what KW can do. If it is an option, I would personally be most comfortable bringing it in to NY and having him see it in person. That should get you the best result, and then you can have the padding shaved (or wadding added) on one side after the fact if required. The suggested alterations seem reasonable....adding 1 cm to the left shoulder should increase the sleeve length (which is presently short), lowering the buttoning point should cover up that exposed patch of your shirt (though I add to the rise when I order as well), and the added length should help the flaring on the jacket. Best of luck.

post #5682 of 5903

Johnsson, thanks so much for the reply. The rise will actually be altered as you suggested. The pants measurements made total sense to me, which is why I didn't post them but perhaps I should have. 

 

What you said about the left shoulder is very interesting!

 

My big concern was that I noticed smoother lines on the left rather than the right, so I was hesitant to make changes on the left over the right. But if I interpret what you are saying correctly, the lower right shoulder would likely need more structure rather than a measurement adjustment to reduce the wrinkling and lines? I did actually go there in person (great experience). The initial measurements were from the in person and the "CHANGE" ones listed were from trying it on again. 

 

Would you find further elaborating on what exactly it means to add 1cm to the left shoulder? I assumed that would take the shoulder and therefore the sleeve higher, not lower. 

post #5683 of 5903

Aaron and I were able to chat on the phone, and we came to an agreement that it is in fact the right shoulder that is problematic. We will be dropping that one by 1cm and altering the sleeve pitch. 

 

I really cannot rave enough about the customer service and the time Aaron was willing to spend with me walking me through the process. To speak with me in person, over email, and on the phone just to make sure we were on the same page is truly incredible. I will, of course, anxiously be awaiting the outcome for my first MTM suit, but I know that I will have no regrets commissioning KW for this project as they were just superb in helping me through the process. 

 

Now if I could only decide what shoulder I wanted. 


Edited by greyandnavy23 - 7/5/16 at 9:41pm
post #5684 of 5903
Quote:
Originally Posted by greyandnavy23 View Post

 

Aaron and I were able to chat on the phone, and we came to an agreement that it is in fact the right shoulder that is problematic. We will be dropping that one by 1cm and altering the sleeve pitch.


 

I really cannot rave enough about the customer service and the time Aaron was willing to spend with me walking me through the process. To speak with me in person, over email, and on the phone just to make sure we were on the same page is truly incredible. I will, of course, anxiously be awaiting the outcome for my first MTM suit, but I know that I will have no regrets commissioning KW for this project as they were just superb in helping me through the process.


 

Now if I could only decide what shoulder I wanted.


You're doing the right thing in trusting Aaron, as ultimately we're just nit-picky guys on the internet. I was happy with my first suit, and only made some minor tweaks on the subsequent one, before ordering essentially the exact same pattern from there on out.

 

The balance issues you describe (visible in your pics) are definitely due to the shoulders....I just picked out the wrong side apparently. ;-)

post #5685 of 5903

Haha, I would say it was less a case of you being wrong, but, more so, my shoulders not deciding where they want to go :/ 

 

Any thoughts on roped, standard, or soft shoulders for me? This will primarily be used for wedding suits at which I am the guest and other formal/semi formal occasions. I think I want to go roped as KW seems to have a subtle roping, and I visually prefer a clear distinction of the sleeve head over a bald shoulder expression. But perhaps would soft would be better for my size? 

 

Part of me desperately wants to go with a wider lapel, or peaks (or both), but Aaron advised I keep it basic for the first MTM, which I agree with. I with with the TRG031 fabric to give it a bit of a pop, while still keeping the pattern a bit more conservative. 

 

Thanks again for your input. 

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