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Kent Wang - Affiliate thread - Page 195

post #2911 of 4441
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjester View Post

Really? Vox's more slim to average build?

 

 

I wasn't around for Vox but the remnants of his posts is still awesome. And his tumblr. Where I got this.

 

I had no idea.  This, however, also makes my point in that I've seen numerous Vox fits over the years, but never had any clue he was this muscular.  Flyswatter's fit above makes it very clear he has muscle mass.

post #2912 of 4441
Quote:
Originally Posted by CousinDonuts View Post

Here are my 2 suits side by side. As noted before, suit 2 has a little less waist suppression and wee bit longer length. It also has the standard shoulder and no changes to the shoulder angle.

 

This may surprise you, but I think the first one (with more waist suppression and narrower shoulders) looks better on you.  I think the best drape/cut depends on each individual's build.

post #2913 of 4441
Agreed, I think the first suit looks better too. I'm usually not a fan of shorter jackets (all mine are pretty close to what one might consider "classical" length), but I think the jacket length on the first suit really works for you.
post #2914 of 4441
Count me among the ones who prefer suit #1.
post #2915 of 4441
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post

Flyswatter, have you considered extending the shoulders slightly and not taking in the waist as much on your next jacket?  As I recall we wear the same size jacket for KW.  I have some jackets that fit like your picture, but have lately been gravitating away from them because they emphasize the drop between my chest and waist too much (like an hourglass without the wide hips). Back in the old days, there was a long discussion where Vox broke down Spoo's fits and pointed out how extending his shoulders slightly and taking in the waist less would give him a more masculine V, which I think is reflected in Spoo's more recent fits.  You can search for pictures of Doc Holliday for an excellent example of this concept.  The imparting of that wisdom has stuck with me, so I pass it along for what it's worth.

Interesting food for thought, thanks for sharing. I am still very early in my sartorial journey and certainly still have a lot to learn about the finer points of fit and what flatters my build the best. I will say though that I am pretty happy with the shoulders on the suit above, and the angle/close-up nature of that particular photo perhaps makes my torso look a bit stubby, for lack of a better word. It is true though that I do not have the long and slender build that CousinDonuts has. I am 5'11" (with shoes on) and about currently around 200 lbs, which is 10-15 lbs more than where I like to be. You noticed (even through my suit uhoh.gif) that I have a muscular build.. perhaps I need to lay off the weights for a bit. laugh.gif In all seriousness though, I am curious if the fit of the jacket will improve when I get back down to my normal weight range of 185-190.

When I first started browsing SF and other menswear sites about 2 years go, I was really drawn to the silhouette and shoulders on Phat Guido's jackets:



I think softly padded jackets look great on sloping shoulders. My predilection toward soft, narrower shoulders probably developed out of a loathing for the heavily-padded, built-up "football player" look that I got so often from OTR jackets. I have big shoulders as is and definitely do not need the extra padding. I see your point on extending them slightly, however, and may consider that as I refine my measurements on future MTM.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CousinDonuts View Post

Interestingly, I think Vox and Flyswatter's silhouettes look similar. (but it's been awhile since Vox has been on here)

I'll take that as a compliment. If only I had has wardrobe! worship.gif
post #2916 of 4441
Quote:
Originally Posted by CousinDonuts View Post

Here are my 2 suits side by side. As noted before, suit 2 has a little less waist suppression and wee bit longer length. It also has the standard shoulder and no changes to the shoulder angle.

 

Although the left leg looks the same, the right leg on suit #2 makes it appear like the pants are slimmer, but maybe it's just the way the fabric is sitting in that photo. I don't prefer either suit, and both look very good, though maybe suit #2 looks more "serious". I like the extra length on suit #2's jacket (though I like #1's shorter jacket as well), and I think the shoulders on both look good. It's nice to have some variety, right?

post #2917 of 4441
By the way, New Shoes1,

Here's a pic I posted earlier in this thread of a jacket that is a touch roomier in the shoulders and chest (but I was also probably 8 pounds or so lighter in this pic):



Is this closer to the fit you prefer?
post #2918 of 4441

Fit pics of my finished suit.  Your thoughts and comments are appreciated!

 

Jacket
Adjust sleeve pitch back -1 cm
Erect posture +1 cm
Lower collar -1 cm 
Front Chest +1 cm
Raise right shoulder angle +1 cm 
Sleeve length +1 cm right + 1.5 cm left 
Jacket length +2 cm. 
Button stance -2.5 cm
Half lined
Soft shoulder

Trousers
Seat +1.5 cm 
Rise +2 cm
Inseam 32"

 

 

post #2919 of 4441
Quote:
Originally Posted by topos View Post

Although the left leg looks the same, the right leg on suit #2 makes it appear like the pants are slimmer, but maybe it's just the way the fabric is sitting in that photo. It's nice to have some variety, right?

Exactly.

The pants are the same. My phone timer is short so not much time to set in robopose.
post #2920 of 4441
Quote:
Originally Posted by emb1980 View Post

Fit pics of my finished suit.  Your thoughts and comments are appreciated!

Jacket


Adjust sleeve pitch back -1 cm


Erect posture +1 cm


Lower collar -1 cm 


Front Chest +1 cm


Raise right shoulder angle +1 cm 


Sleeve length +1 cm right + 1.5 cm left 


Jacket length +2 cm. 


Button stance -2.5 cm


Half lined


Soft shoulder




Trousers

Seat +1.5 cm 


Rise +2 cm


Inseam 32"






is that the standard charcoal?:eH:
post #2921 of 4441
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyswatter View Post

By the way, New Shoes1,

Here's a pic I posted earlier in this thread of a jacket that is a touch roomier in the shoulders and chest (but I was also probably 8 pounds or so lighter in this pic):



Is this closer to the fit you prefer?

 

No, but I'm not knowledgeable enough to be able to tell you why.  Check out the pictures of Mao Mao, Doc Holliday and IAMATT on this link for examples of what I am referring to.

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/253439/waywrn-hall-of-fame-pre-2010  

post #2922 of 4441
Quote:
Originally Posted by TyCooN View Post


is that the standard charcoal?:eH:

 

 

Yes.  It looks a little lighter in real life than in these pics.


Edited by emb1980 - 7/17/13 at 3:54pm
post #2923 of 4441
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post

 

No, but I'm not knowledgeable enough to be able to tell you why.  Check out the pictures of Mao Mao, Doc Holliday and IAMATT on this link for examples of what I am referring to.

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/253439/waywrn-hall-of-fame-pre-2010  

Whoa whoa whoa

 

Do iammatt and mafoofan have the same fabric from Rubinacci?

 

http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/6076/tdx003ey8.jpg

http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/7528/brownjacketmafoofan.jpg

post #2924 of 4441
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post

No, but I'm not knowledgeable enough to be able to tell you why.  Check out the pictures of Mao Mao, Doc Holliday and IAMATT on this link for examples of what I am referring to.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/253439/waywrn-hall-of-fame-pre-2010  

Some amazing pics in that thread, no doubt. Those guys are SF legends and they (and their bespoke tailors) sure do have their fit dialed-in. Stuff to aspire to. Makes me realize how far I still have to go, though. confused.gif
post #2925 of 4441
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post

Flyswatter, have you considered extending the shoulders slightly and not taking in the waist as much on your next jacket?  As I recall we wear the same size jacket for KW.  I have some jackets that fit like your picture, but have lately been gravitating away from them because they emphasize the drop between my chest and waist too much (like an hourglass without the wide hips). Back in the old days, there was a long discussion where Vox broke down Spoo's fits and pointed out how extending his shoulders slightly and taking in the waist less would give him a more masculine V, which I think is reflected in Spoo's more recent fits.  You can search for pictures of Doc Holliday for an excellent example of this concept.  The imparting of that wisdom has stuck with me, so I pass it along for what it's worth.

Thank you for the kind words, but for clarity's sake I'll note that my coats don't have any significant shoulder extension. A good bit of fullness in the chest, a vulgar degree of waist suppression, lots of flair in the skirt, but with shoulders cut close to my own.

That said, I don't think guys with narrow, sloped shoulders are well served by the SF taste for extremely soft shoulders. Some guys benefit from structure and, done correctly, even a bit of extension. (An observation directed at no one in particular and meant to agree with your general point.)
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