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Kent Wang - Affiliate thread - Page 190

post #2836 of 3940
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyswatter View Post

I've been wanting to have a lighter navy odd jacket made up for a while now--a versatile staple in a mid-weight wool. Options would be soft shoulders, wide lapels, side vents, patch side pockets, welted chest pocket, and half lined. Fabric would be a pick-and-pick, either TR7121 or AR0021.

Now, I'm thinking I'll just have it made up as a suit with the option of wearing the jacket separately as a sport coat. Essentially, I'd have the jacket made up just as described above (my ideal sport coat), but I'd also order matching trousers. I know that it is generally frowned upon to wear a suit jacket as a sport coat, but that's usually when the jacket has a strict orphaned look to it, i.e. a smooth worsted wool, strong shoulders, flap pockets, etc.

I guess the only downsides would be that the suit would have a slightly casual nature given the patch pockets, but I actually wouldn't mind that. The other downside would be potentially different wear rates between the jacket and trousers, but I can't see myself wearing just the jacket often enough for disproportionate wear to be a concern.

Any thoughts on this? At this point, the only thing I'm not sure about is what buttons to go with. What would be appropriate for both a suit and an odd jacket? Light or mid brown? Dark brown horn? Mother of pearl?

That's word for word what my navy is. I love it.

 

So one of your suits has a casual nature. Wear it on Thursdays and/or Fridays. Not that big a deal.

 

editl I have mid-brown buttons I think. Looks alright. I wouldn't worry about the wear-rates. 

post #2837 of 3940
A blazer-suit is a great idea but not easy to pull off. I think taking the approach of a casual suit is the right one. There are a few dedicated threads on this. Search for "blazer suit" and see what comes up.
post #2838 of 3940

Figured I'd post my blazer after the tailor. The folds by the patch pockets are the tailors fault. They did it wrong. I gave them their fair share of ranting and raving after they told me, "everything has folds, bro." Have yet to find a competent tailor in AZ. So they're staying this way for now.

 

Anyone know how to get rid of the center-back wrinkles?

 

(Changes made by tailor, -.5" waist suppression on seams going in to patch pockets, -.25" length to sleeves. 

Changes to future KW order are -1cm waist, -.5cm sleeve [to mimic what the tailor did] plus -.5cm sleeve rotation to fix folds in back of sleeves)

 

38

Wide Lapel

Patch Pockets/Welt Pocket

Half Lined

Soft Shoulder

Horn dark brown buttons

3r2.5

 

Fit Pics (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #2839 of 3940
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjester View Post

Figured I'd post my blazer after the tailor. The folds by the patch pockets are the tailors fault. They did it wrong. I gave them their fair share of ranting and raving after they told me, "everything has folds, bro." Have yet to find a competent tailor in AZ. So they're staying this way for now.

Anyone know how to get rid of the center-back wrinkles?

(Changes made by tailor, -.5" waist suppression on seams going in to patch pockets, -.25" length to sleeves. 
Changes to future KW order are -1cm waist, -.5cm sleeve [to mimic what the tailor did] plus 1cm sleeve rotation to fix folds in back of sleeves)

38
Wide Lapel
Patch Pockets/Welt Pocket
Half Lined
Soft Shoulder
Horn dark brown buttons
3r2.5
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

That looks pretty good, though attempting to fix the wrinkles at the back of the sleeves is definitely something to try on your next jacket.

What fabric is this?
post #2840 of 3940
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyswatter View Post


That looks pretty good, though attempting to fix the wrinkles at the back of the sleeves is definitely something to try on your next jacket.

What fabric is this?

Thanks. And actually it'd be -.5cm sleeve rotation, that was a typo - fixed.

 

7124 on the lower right. It's perfect, it has texture which Kent pointed out a blazer should have. It's not a plain weave of any sort. 

post #2841 of 3940
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjester View Post

Figured I'd post my blazer after the tailor. The folds by the patch pockets are the tailors fault. They did it wrong. I gave them their fair share of ranting and raving after they told me, "everything has folds, bro." Have yet to find a competent tailor in AZ. So they're staying this way for now.

 

Anyone know how to get rid of the center-back wrinkles?

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

(Changes made by tailor, -.5" waist suppression on seams going in to patch pockets, -.25" length to sleeves. 

Changes to future KW order are -1cm waist, -.5cm sleeve [to mimic what the tailor did] plus -.5cm sleeve rotation to fix folds in back of sleeves)

 

38

Wide Lapel

Patch Pockets/Welt Pocket

Half Lined

Soft Shoulder

Horn dark brown buttons

3r2.5

 

Fit Pics (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Overall, this looks very good! I think you said before that you doubt the wide lapels on your frame, but I like them with the soft shoulder. For the wrinkling in the lower back, could you specify a more erect posture when inputting measurements? Did you already do that? You don't seem to have the hunchback that haunts most office workers.

 

Also, is it possible that the shirt has a little bit of excess fabric bunching at the back and pushing the jacket out, or do these wrinkles happen with the shirt untucked or with a t-shirt?

 

I agree with flyswatter about the sleeves. I'd ask KW if .5cm is enough, or if it should be more. 

 

Nice fabric.

 

Don't you hate when you care more about tailoring than tailors? I could never say to my boss, "Every factum has errors, bro... the judge probably won't even notice." Instant unemployment.

 

Oh, and don't throw out that tie! How to fix snags.

post #2842 of 3940

Trial KW suit.

 

Would appreciate suggestions on alterations before I email Kent. I know I have to shorten the sleeves substantially. I have t-rex arms. It makes reaching for things a pain in the ass.

 

I'm particularly curious about how to fix the line at the back of the pants. Pockets are also flaring.

 

Excuse the shirt. It always does this weird billowy thing. My other shirts are packed, as I'm in the process of moving.

Pics (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

post #2843 of 3940
Quote:
Originally Posted by scatterbrain View Post

 

Overall, this looks very good! I think you said before that you doubt the wide lapels on your frame, but I like them with the soft shoulder. For the wrinkling in the lower back, could you specify a more erect posture when inputting measurements? Did you already do that? You don't seem to have the hunchback that haunts most office workers.

 

Also, is it possible that the shirt has a little bit of excess fabric bunching at the back and pushing the jacket out, or do these wrinkles happen with the shirt untucked or with a t-shirt?

 

I agree with flyswatter about the sleeves. I'd ask KW if .5cm is enough, or if it should be more. 

 

Nice fabric.

 

Don't you hate when you care more about tailoring than tailors? I could never say to my boss, "Every factum has errors, bro... the judge probably won't even notice." Instant unemployment.

 

Oh, and don't throw out that tie! How to fix snags.

You might be right... it isn't lined in the back, and the shirt may have been doing it. That's a really good observation. It's not bad enough to change on the next one so I'll leave it for now.

 

If .5cm isn't enough, it'll remedy it a decent amount. I'm sure 1 is too much. I think in this instance not fixing it enough is way better than overdoing it. So .5cm will be all that's done this time around.

 

The sleeves are kind of where I want them. Here's a pre-tailor pic with no button up shirt, but showing the silhouette;

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

The sleeves were longer and the sides weren't as suppressed. I like the longer sleeves, maybe to show 1cm of cuff total. At least for now and this can always change. I don't see where Fly said .5cm though?

 

I kind of like the wide lapels now but I'm waiting to decide to put them on the next suit for when I get a shirt I'd actually button up, to try on. If the wide lapels look good with a curved cutaway collar and a 3.5" tie, I may get them again. They were tough to get used to but they do look pretty dang good, too. I will say.

post #2844 of 3940
Quote:
Originally Posted by scatterbrain View Post

 

I'm particularly curious about how to fix the line at the back of the pants. Pockets are also flaring.

I can tell you that's not an easy fix and Kent may not be able to completely remedy that. I have the same thing but on an extreme level (very extreme). I've been told it's caused by, "low flat seat and seem posterior pelvic tilt. The long back rise needs to be shortened. The seat angle needs to be deepened, and the trouser fork line needs to be shifted forward slightly." This was by OTCTailor. 

 

I'm working with another company to see if it's possible to remedy it online at all. I've tried to pull the rear panel up (which means lowering the waistband) and then lengthening the rear rise (so you don't get a wedgie). The process will be done in about a month through the other company. You can read about my dealings in the fit feedback thread.

post #2845 of 3940
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjester View Post

I can tell you that's not an easy fix and Kent may not be able to completely remedy that. I have the same thing but on an extreme level (very extreme). I've been told it's caused by, "low flat seat and seem posterior pelvic tilt. The long back rise needs to be shortened. The seat angle needs to be deepened, and the trouser fork line needs to be shifted forward slightly." This was by OTCTailor. 


I'm working with another company to see if it's possible to remedy it online at all. I've tried to pull the rear panel up (which means lowering the waistband) and then lengthening the rear rise (so you don't get a wedgie). The process will be done in about a month through the other company. You can read about my dealings in the fit feedback thread.

Whoa; and I thought I was serious about pants fit details. That's a hard won, serious trouser-surgery expertise read there.
post #2846 of 3940
Getting the right fit on trousers is quite a challenge indeed...
post #2847 of 3940
Honestly, trousers might be the hardest thing to fit right for MTM...

Ordered one of the polos on Thursday; received Saturday. Very nice! Love the fit of it--it's fantastic. Now, if other colors would come back into stock...
post #2848 of 3940
Quote:
Originally Posted by razl View Post


Whoa; and I thought I was serious about pants fit details. That's a hard won, serious trouser-surgery expertise read there.

I really just want pants to look 90% great on me. It's hard. I don't have a weird body or anything, maybe just an eye for it. 

Quote:
Originally Posted by babygreenspots View Post

Getting the right fit on trousers is quite a challenge indeed...

You have no idea. Read the "about pants" thread. I've read it all while at work on downtime. Intense stuff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by aravenel View Post

Honestly, trousers might be the hardest thing to fit right for MTM...

Ordered one of the polos on Thursday; received Saturday. Very nice! Love the fit of it--it's fantastic. Now, if other colors would come back into stock...

Yep. I thought a sport coat was hard. That is easy compared to a semi-complex pants fit.

And I want some of the polos so bad. just one or two. 

post #2849 of 3940
Quote:
Originally Posted by scatterbrain View Post

Also, is it possible that the shirt has a little bit of excess fabric bunching at the back and pushing the jacket out, or do these wrinkles happen with the shirt untucked or with a t-shirt?

 

I believe you're right, good sir. Might be suppressed by a better darted shirt or a fully lined jacket. Good call. Kent and I are emailing about it now but this looks pretty good to me.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

edit. Maybe now you can better see the bad pocket folds created by Zizzo Tailoring in Phoenix. I'm scared to take the jacket anywhere else.

 

Future alterations:

-1cm waist suppression (already pictured is -1.25)
-.5cm sleeve rotation
-.5cm sleeve length (already pictured is -.6)
-1cm bicep
-.5cm cuff

Edited by mrjester - 7/14/13 at 4:01pm
post #2850 of 3940
Quote:
Originally Posted by scatterbrain View Post

Trial KW suit.

Would appreciate suggestions on alterations before I email Kent. I know I have to shorten the sleeves substantially. I have t-rex arms. It makes reaching for things a pain in the ass.

I'm particularly curious about how to fix the line at the back of the pants. Pockets are also flaring.

Excuse the shirt. It always does this weird billowy thing. My other shirts are packed, as I'm in the process of moving. Pics (Click to show)





























Thanks in advance for any feedback.

Jacket looks pretty good overall. I'd say -2.5cm on the sleeve length, though you can probably best determine this yourself. Chest might be a tough tight, because it doesn't quite look like the lapels are laying completely flat. I'd say +0.5 cm to the chest. Maybe -1.5cm on the back chest to clean up the slight wrinkling. Front/back balance looks slightly, off, but not sure if it's enough to warrant attempting to correct it.

These are just my amateur opinions, though. I'd listen to whatever Kent says. smile.gif

Also, if you want to clean up the billowyness of that shirt, get a tailor to add darts. I'm a huge fan of darts on my dress shirts!

Quote:
Originally Posted by scatterbrain View Post

I agree with flyswatter about the sleeves. I'd ask KW if .5cm is enough, or if it should be more.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjester View Post

I don't see where Fly said .5cm though?

I didn't. I think he was just referring to my comment that you should attempt to fix the wrinkling at the back of the sleeves. smile.gif

BTW, I think the wide lapels look fantastic on that jacket.
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