It was by Yigak Azrouel. It was one of the best leather jackets I've ever seen! Seriously!
I'm so glad he got back into menswear. I remember that in 2001 or so, he made a brief foray into menswear (there were some cool coated western style shirts - same FW season Tom Ford did a really cool black denim sportsjacket for Gucci), and then... nothing for a while. He really does a good job with layered, very American, but not nostalgic, looks. Wish more people were into his stuff and less into straight up heritage brands, tbh.