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Donegal recommendation for suit

post #1 of 353
11/12/09 at 6:45pm
Thread Starter 
Can anyone point me in the direction of a good Donegal suiting cloth? Looking for a light gray or maybe light brown. Are all Donegals for suits worsted or do they also come in woolen? Is P&H Thornproof just for jackets?
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post #2 of 353
11/12/09 at 6:47pm
I want one of these too, and so far the best bets look like Scabal or H&S.
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post #3 of 353
11/12/09 at 6:48pm
I want to make a pair of donegal trousers to turn my donegal jacket into a suit, but I imagine P&H Thornproof would make terrible trousers.
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post #4 of 353
11/12/09 at 6:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
I want one of these too, and so far the best bets look like Scabal or H&S.

Agreed. I looked at this too and couldn't find anything better than these two options. If you can visit W. Bill or another fabric supplier you might chance across an odd lot that works, though.
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post #5 of 353
11/12/09 at 6:53pm
What's in the W. Bill books is all hand-loomed single-width stuff that would make terrible trousers. T4 swears to me that there are some hand-mades that can work as trousers but I have never seen them.

The Scabal and H&S suiting donegals are machine loomed, and they look very "regular" compared to the hand loomed, also the dot pattern is a lot smaller.
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post #6 of 353
11/12/09 at 6:53pm
I got 6m from a jobber. [Edit: to clarify, this cloth is not Thornproof, it's lighter weight, perhaps 14 oz or so.] What's your objection to Thornproof trousers, mafoofan?
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post #7 of 353
11/12/09 at 6:57pm
the picture of Shannon Hill from the Sartorialist is a great example

he told me it was done in Scabal Cheviot & Donegal book. Cloth number 12724



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post #8 of 353
11/12/09 at 7:13pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
The Scabal and H&S suiting donegals are machine loomed, and they look very "regular" compared to the hand loomed, also the dot pattern is a lot smaller.

I looked through these books last time and recall having this impression. The "grain" was finer, more even and less pronounced than I'd hoped. And none of the colors were in the lighter family I wanted. But, I might go for it anyhow. Maybe more of a mid-gray.

I have to stick with what the tailor carries, but I think they have all the Harrisons, H&S, Scabal, Minnis and Hardy books. I think they can get Porter Harding, too. I just wondered out of these which would work best for a suit.
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post #9 of 353
11/12/09 at 7:18pm
I really liked those Donegal trousers Whnay. recently received from Ambrosi.


Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCal_1 View Post

He looks like the guy Betty Draper is running off with.
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post #10 of 353
11/13/09 at 11:28am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post
I looked through these books last time and recall having this impression. The "grain" was finer, more even and less pronounced than I'd hoped. And none of the colors were in the lighter family I wanted. But, I might go for it anyhow. Maybe more of a mid-gray. I have to stick with what the tailor carries, but I think they have all the Harrisons, H&S, Scabal, Minnis and Hardy books. I think they can get Porter Harding, too. I just wondered out of these which would work best for a suit.
The Porter and Harding Donegals come in two wights and are specially set (woven) for suits. W. Bill makes (made?) a Donegal book that is quite "hairy" but not suitable for suits
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post #11 of 353
11/20/09 at 12:50pm
What trouser configuration are you thinking for the suit? I also have a donegal coat which I am thinking of converting to a suit but I am not sure it will look right without a vest.
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post #12 of 353
11/20/09 at 3:59pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post
I looked through these books last time and recall having this impression. The "grain" was finer, more even and less pronounced than I'd hoped. And none of the colors were in the lighter family I wanted. But, I might go for it anyhow. Maybe more of a mid-gray.

I have to stick with what the tailor carries, but I think they have all the Harrisons, H&S, Scabal, Minnis and Hardy books. I think they can get Porter Harding, too. I just wondered out of these which would work best for a suit.

I can't comment on the P&H tweeds (mine are all stacked back in my closet in unfinished condition) but I second the idea of going with Scabal's offerings. As has already been said, their stuff is not as rough and sporty as others but can hold a trouser crease quite well.
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post #13 of 353
11/24/09 at 2:29pm
Thread Starter 
So, I checked out the Scabal, P&H and W. Bill swatches yesterday. The tailor said any could be made into a suit including the W. Bill stuff, which I really liked. Nice and chunky (I think it's 13+ oz) and it has the color I am after: light gray (which is really black/white with colored flecks). So, I might go with that. Haven't placed the order yet, though. Would anyone still advise against this in a suit (trousers)?

Side question: Which pocket configuration would you choose for a Donegal suit?
ps. I might want to wear the jacket as a separate once in a while.

3 patch
2 patch with welt
2 flap with welt
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post #14 of 353
11/24/09 at 2:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post
3 patch

this.
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post #15 of 353
11/24/09 at 2:35pm
I suppose you've seen this, but I'll post it anyway just in case:

http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/...-shopping.html
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