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I need help with Oxxford

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 
Hi guys.

Those of you who wear both italian suits and Oxxford - Gibbons model side vent suits, can you tell me some of the noticeble differences in terms of fitting? Are Oxxford Gibbons made for older gents who have some belly? I have some belly, but still on flat side.

Thanks
post #2 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by MilanoStyle
Hi guys.

Those of you who wear both italian suits and Oxxford - Gibbons model side vent suits, can you tell me some of the noticeble differences in terms of fitting? Are Oxxford Gibbons made for older gents who have some belly? I have some belly, but still on flat side.

Thanks

I find the difference to be more in the shoulder than the chest or waist of the coat. The Gibbons has a more structured shoulder with heavier padding than the corresponding Isaia, Borrelli or Kiton. Brioni, save one or two models, will have shoulders more akin to the Gibbons.

I should also note that the lapel on the Oxxford will not roll in the same way that Italians do.
post #3 of 15
Thread Starter 
shoot. Heavy shoulder padding turns me off. I guess I am interested in Oxxford mainly for 2 reasons:

1) One of the best hand mande suits in the world, if not the best.
2) O.K price on eBay.

But, my heart and desire is really set for Attolini, however. But I cannot seem to find right Attolini suits on Ebay.

Also, not to hijack my own thread, .. why is Attolini coat rather longer than other napolitian suits?
post #4 of 15
You might give the Radcliffe model a try, as it has the softest should of any Oxxford that I've tried. But, it sounds like Isaia might be perfect for you. Great fabrics, a lot of hand work and super soft shoulders. Isaia takes up the greatest space in my closet for these reasons.

Can't help you on Attolini as I don't own any.
post #5 of 15
Thread Starter 
Yup Isaia and Corneliani fit the best on my shoulders.
post #6 of 15
I have one Isaia that fits very trim (made for European market?) at 56L, having narrower shoulders (but I think it was made to fit as a trimmer shoulder) and a slightly narrower waist than my 43L Gibbons, shown here:



I don't think Gibbons are necessarily made for an overweight gentleman; I am 26, and not rotund... yet.

There is definitely more shoulder padding on the Gibbons compared to the Isaia, but not overwhelmingly so; I have fairly square shoulders to begin with, so the shoulder you see there isn't as built up as it looks. I think the lapels are quite nice on the Oxxford, although I think it does roll differently. But I actually prefer this roll to the Isaia I have. Personal preferences, I suppose. Hope that helps a little; if I have time, I'll try to post the Isaia suit over the weekend.
post #7 of 15
I have the Oxxford Crest and while it is not Isaia, etc, it looks the best on me compared to the other Oxxford models. There are a couple on ebay as well right now, I'm thinking in a 44L
post #8 of 15
I second the Radcliffe model suggestion; it's a very nice, clean cut with wondeful roped shoulders.

koji
post #9 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by ranchsooner
I have the Oxxford Crest and while it is not Isaia, etc, it looks the best on me compared to the other Oxxford models. There are a couple on ebay as well right now, I'm thinking in a 44L

The Oxxford Crest works well for me, too. It has slightly roped shoulders and looks to me like a conservative interpretation of Brioni. Here's a picture of the silhouette:

post #10 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by thinman
The Oxxford Crest works well for me, too. It has slightly roped shoulders and looks to me like a conservative interpretation of Brioni. Here's a picture of the silhouette:


Thinman,

Between the Saks and Oxxford Crest suits and who knows what else, we must have similar tastes.
post #11 of 15
The thing about the Gibbons being made for "older gents" is nonesense.

I would characterize it as a traditional, American coat some some shoulder structure and some suppression.

According to my friends at the Oxxford Store it is the easiest model to alter. E.g., you can raise the armhole whereas models with a higher armhole do not allow this.
post #12 of 15
when is someone gonna buy a radcliff and post pix here? really want to see that one.

here is an example of the Gibbons on me; i could stand to lose a a pound or two when the pic was taken. tho:

post #13 of 15
I wish more Radcliffes would hurry up and make it to ebay. I've only ever seen one, and it was some huge size IIRC.
post #14 of 15
I own Oxxford coats/suits in Manhattan and Gibbons models and have tried Radcliffe and Crest.
The Manhattan has nice soft shoulders with a reasonably high arm hole but a low gorge I don't like.
I very much like the Gibbons body and higher gorge (with somewhat narrower lapel), but the shoulders are too padded and a bit too wide for my taste on RTW coats. I solved this problem with my last MTM purchase by having a Gibbons body made with a Manhattan shoulder. It worked out very well and is the closest thing in Oxxford I have encountered to compare with my Italian suits. Of course one pays for this service and it doesn't show up on Ebay (and I'm a fan of Ebay).
I tried on the Radcliffe with high expectations but was disappointed. It is cut narrow with a high gorge and thin lapels but the shoulders are actually signficantly padded...probably even more than the Gibbons. I like a higher button stance, but it was too high on the Radcliffe, similar to some Isaia's where the middle button hits me 3 inches above my navel. Overall I didn't like the feel of the coat, either. The shoulders on the Crest are wide and fairly well padded and so it is not for me.
My favorite suits are Attolini and Barbera made by Attolini. Soft shoulder with roping that somehow retains structure with a "pagoda" appearance. Perhaps better on a suit than a sportscoat. St. Andrews makes great shoulders on Purple Label coats. Isaia are nice but perhaps a little too soft with a very unstructured feel. Kiton generally in-between and also very nice.
post #15 of 15
The people at the Oxxford store described the Radcliffe to me as much more continental than soft shouldered. I think that it looked like Brioni rather than an Attolini or Kiton which is much softer and rounder through the shoulder line. Needless to say, I was not impressed. I think that Oxxford makes really nice clothes, but that their styling leaves a lot to be desired.
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