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One word: Repetition. Repetition is the problem. With the grain, against the grain...whatever...try to shave with the fewest strokes possible. Re-lather when attacking the same area. Lubrication and fewest strokes is the name of the game. I do believe in the four blade system. There is a video about all the research, time and money that went into developing the four blade system...it works. I got a barber shave six months ago...great experience...terrible shave!!
Not all barbers are the same in regards to shaving. Some are good, some are bad. It also depends where in the world you get your shaves. Pretty much any barber who provides a shave with a straight razor isn't going to provide the optimal shave.
I've tried three blades, four blades, five blades, vibrating, non-vibrating, change the cartridge after every shave. Nothing compares to a straight razor. As for the number of passes, that depends on how sensitive the skin is and how close of a shave you want. However, it's not more passes results in more irritated skin. If that were true, then my closest shaves would always result in irritation. I can go at my beard with five different passes without irritation, and I can go with two passes with irritation. Conversely I've gone those same five passes with irritation, and two passes without irritation.
There's a lot that goes into shaving, and the post and pre shave regimen is just as important as the shave itself when it comes to reducing irritation. Once I discovered that, the number of times my skin was irritated after shaving dropped to nearly zero. Once in a while my skin will be irritated, but that'll be largely because I botched my post shave regimen.








