had a look at the cloth you chose today 1315 from the T F bunch. Yes 2 by 2 which is good, Milled finish which really means it is more of a winter suit. 310 g which you can wear in Auckland except for the hottest month or 2.
I'm glad this Doran and Doran is natures gentleman as described by another post.
If the suit is a bespoke suit here is how it all works, and whilst I won't be unkind there is a weakness here if am to be honest with you,
Made to Measure is no training ground for Bespoke.....especially at Crane Brothers. I was part of a Tv prog recently on TV7, I felt it turned out to be an infomercial for Crane Bro's and despite being reticent in taking part I did, cutting to the chase they had a fellow from Crane bro's measuring the presenter and it was very apparent that he knew little about tailoring as he ticked the boxes on the Made to Measure form. Still it was not as priceless as Murray Crane the so called tailor( according to several articles) admitted that he was not one , that he could not sew a suit! The interviewer asked if he felt like a bit of a fraud, the reply was approx " why should I when I can get others to do this" The others being Rembrandt suits. Anyway as this very nice fellow from Crane bro's and the presenter walk down the street you can see in my opinion, the disaster of what a MTM suit is. The biggest giveaway is the tie showing from beneath the jacket, a sure sign of a poorly fitted jacket. The button position was also too high to be very useful.
Continuing with MTM as no training ground for Bespoke. The important part of bespoke is the taking of the measurements. This should always be done by the cutter.....the person who will cut the suit. This is the fitting expert, this is then bundled and sent to the tailor. I would be interested to know where the nice chap from Doran and Doran was trained that is where the substance is. If it is only at Crane Bro and something like AUT I would not respect that as training for Bespoke, I'm glad people think he is brilliant, but you can find enough out there who think M Crane is a great Tailor, so bringing facts to the table is important for me as I have heard a lot of self PR in this industry and very little of it holds water.
In finishing luddite, reasonably good cloth choice of 120's and cashmere and a reliable weight. The front edge ( where the buttons are) of your suit should fall straight up and down on the coat. A good cutter will establish this during the fitting process in a bespoke suit.
Today I was buying soap in the downtown and on the wall was a sign advertising " bespoke homeopathy aromatherapy". I will add this to the list. Bespoke has many meanings for many people. It is after all just a word