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Tailors in NZ - Page 2

post #16 of 71
hay Luddite, can you tell us more about Doran and Doran? nothing on their website.

and to answer the very first question of this thread regarding bespoke tailor in NZ, the only true bespoke is
the boys at Preston & Maurice. Malcom the head tailor would be the only one in NZ that went though a proper 10+
apprenticeship on Sevile Row and his apprentice Brendon still goes back to Sevile Row every year to train.

there is a waiting list to get a suit from there and when there is not it's a about a 4 month turn around.
post #17 of 71
I wouldn't call Preston and Maurice the only true bespoke; there are quite a few small operations that will do bespoke work (and most of the High Street stores do "bespoke" by outsourcing to a tailor).

Doran and Doran is a lot more fashion forward. My understanding is that it is a partnership between an Italian immigrant tailor and Paul Doran, who ran the made to measure side of Crane Brothers for several years before moving to Wunderkamer (on Ponsonby Road, owned by Mark Crane, the other Crane brother...)) where he operated a bespoke business.

He now runs what was the bespoke side of Wunderkamer as his own business, with premises upstairs on Ponsonby Road.

You're looking at a bit above NZ$3,000 for a fully canvassed, true bespoke suit from Doran and Doran. Paul says that he now has a six week turnaround, though it was substantially longer when he was at Wunderkamer.

I currently have a suit on order. I will post pictures when it's done.
post #18 of 71
sounds good, i hope its not the same tailor as the one Wunderkamer used because they just use Vinny the tailor and charge a little more.

please do up date us on your new suit! what fabric did you choose?



it really depends on what you classify as fully "bespoke", my bare minimum would be:

-obviously a unique pattern to the individual
-the way the pattern is drawn [very important but hard to explain]
-Iron work; where they would shrink and stretch the fabric to your body shape.
-hand basting, hand stitch lapel join, hand finished pockets, hand set sleeve, hand finish buttonholes
and the this last one is unnecessary but nice to have is a complete hand set lining.

so for me and the only place i have found that would do all of the above as their regular practice is Preston and maurice. Most other places could do it if you ask but the problem is if they dont do these hand work all the time they're just no good at it. practice makes perfect.
post #19 of 71

Hi Luddite

how did you get on with your suit?. I was interested in your comment how crane Bro's was slightly misleading in their claims to do bespoke and have their own workroom. They do have their own work room for alterations and basic stuff though they are not capable of making a suit of any quality, hence they use rembrandt I think.....you can decide on that quality for yourself. This misleading approach is not new and they all do it. 

the biggest problem with NZ suits is that the cut is generally very poor. In a well cut bespoke suit I can swing a golf club.

as for having bespoke tailors in NZ....not many. It is a very labour intensive trade and is compounded when the public generally do not know the difference between a properly trained bespoke cutter and tailor and a made to measure. Look for the cloth cuttings over the floor and the messy workroom and at least there is a chance that the coat will be made on site.

the cutter is the most important component of a workroom, he or she is the one with the fitting knowledge and would have generally trained as a tailor previous. You should always ask your cutter where they trained. If the answer is on made to measure or at any of the technical institutes you are in trouble with your suit. The only way to become a proper bespoke tailor or cutter is to train under one....for a very long time.  I hope this is useful.

When you are inspecting the cut of your suit the coat should fall strait up and down on the front where the coat is buttoning. None of the made to measure will do this as they are what is termed a crooked cut.

As this is my first ever post....not yet a facebooker....truly a luddite....I hope some of this is useful. Happy to pass on info about bespoke suits, tradition, how to tie the perfect windsor knot etc

regards

Brendon

 

post #20 of 71
Brendon: It'll be a few more weeks, mate. What's your background anyway? You talk like you have some experience.

Jim: Interesting. I will ask Paul about Vinny next time I see him. It's curious, because Vinny definitely doesn't look like an old Italian guy - which is what Paul described when at Wunderkamer. What handwork does Vinny's normally compromise on?
post #21 of 71
I can confirm that Doran and Doran either uses or is Vinny's.

On cloth: A charcoal wool/cashmere herringbone fom http://www.dugdalebros.com/thomas_fisher.html
Edited by Luddite - 5/5/12 at 5:35pm
post #22 of 71

Sorry Luddite started to reply and hit the wrong key. Experience is 10 plus years with Made to Measure and 18 years part and full time training as a Bespoke tailor and Cutter under an ex Savile Row Tailor.( part of those 18 years during made to measure time).

Unfortunately to roughly quote someone from Gieves and Hawkes in London, " after 35 years of bespoke I am still learning"....not good news for me.

There are good tailors and bad, not all bespoke is good, on the flip side a made to measure suit can never really fit. The good news is only  a bespoke cutter tailor and his or her client would know, so from that point of view most suits fit if you follow the logic.....However if a magazine or newspaper calls Murray Crane is a tailor again, I think next year I will watch CSI and call myself a forensic scientist.

  

Do you iron your own shirts? A lot of guys around town have the ends of the collar tips bending curling down, bad look and easily fixed all in the ironing, collar stays are largely a waste of time.

If any one out there would like to learn to iron a shirt well I can post this on this site.

thanks for being my first post reply Luddite

go well

Brendon

post #23 of 71
Watching this thread with interest. Would be keen to get some recommendations on locally available slim fitting business shirts.
post #24 of 71
Impressive background. What do you do now?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brendon View Post

Do you iron your own shirts?

I do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lemmings View Post

Watching this thread with interest. Would be keen to get some recommendations on locally available slim fitting business shirts.

Your best bet is probably the Crane Brothers outlet store in Grey Lynn.

All the usual suspects do comparable, relatively slim shirts.
post #25 of 71

Hi Luddite

Not trawling for Business. But regrettably I am a Bespoke Cutter and Tailor. Just keen to help though. can only make so many suits a year and get booked up easily with no apprentice as yet. Still on my 35 year learning curve or will one day go broke and then I will be the one packing supermarket shelves as I will never sell a made to measure suit again...ever.

Just keen to post some advice for any at this stage and keep some degree of anon

I will post a really good method ironing a shirt when I get time later on

regards

Brendon

post #26 of 71
Where are you based? I'm sure some people here might want to pop in for a chat.

EDIT: Also, the fabric for the suit I have on order is Thomas Fisher 1353. This:

233

The fabric appears slightly darker with a more subtle herringbone to it under most lights.
Edited by Luddite - 5/8/12 at 2:18pm
post #27 of 71

Hi Luddite Interesting I didn't know any one else had got on to the Thomas Fischer in NZ I have only used it once or twice  so far. I think it is good cloth. I travel to europe each year to get the edge on cloth I have about 6 or 7 books from the Fischer range. The most important thing to look for when buying cloth is to look for the 2 by 2 2 yarns in the warp and weft, which the fischer stuff is. Not all other popular cut length brands are I can't say which but I don't sell it unless I have to because of long term performance. Good buying right now with the pound up till now. I will look tomorrow and see if I have that cloth in my range. My only criticism of some of the cloth was that it was a bit soft on the handle. I will have a look at that #.

Will post tomorrow.once i have had a look at the cloth

Just as a note I have been looking at the suits that people have been posting on the internet. As Ak is a small town if you post photo's I wont comment. You are welcome to post photo's of other suits ties etc and I will happily comment

good choice of cloth I think

regards

Brendon

post #28 of 71

Hi All interested

how to iron a shirt. know your iron make sure it is clean. Sound straightforward but a lot of domestic irons have black marks etc 

Kettle water in the iron

spray the shirt all over. Set the iron to cotton and steam for now

Sleeves first ...get the seam flat start with the iron , stay away from the seam until you have got the first say 8 inches of the seam flat, then move across to the edge that you will now create with the iron. Continue the same way down to the gauntlet, pull on the cuff to deepen the pleats on the cuff and press. Turn the steam off and slowly iron down the sharp edge you have created down the sleeve. without the steam this will ensure the crease stays longer through the day back on steam. Do the yoke next. Put this on the end of the ironing board. When doing the front seam of the yoke on left and right pull on the collar level with the seam to make ironing easier without creasing the seam. ( easy to accidentally do this). Back body next, again when you get to the pleat  if one there pull on the collar area to deepen the pleat. No pleat no problem. Front next dont bash into the buttons unless you want to knock them off or tear the shirt ( have seen this).The placket , place the iron on the bottom end and move upwards always pulling from the top of the placket gently to moderately to stretch it out, do this again with the dry iron. Be careful if you have a dirty iron it will leave a mark. The collar is the part that will separate you from the crowd. I thought of this myself from tailoring. The under collar is fractionally smaller than the top collar. After it is washed it will always bend under. so when ironing. On steam again, put the iron on the back of the collar( ie the side that never shows) start at one end and move slowly along all the time pull on the collar from the opposite end stretching the collar. Take a ten second break, turn the iron off steam and do the same without steam. The break is to ensure that yuo don't burn the collar. If you do it will wash out through the next wash and it is on the unseen back of the collar. Finally fold the collar over ( as it is worn)and allwing the approx 5mm fold from the seam press the iron down making a soft crease for an instant in the centre of the collar only. Do not make the mistake of creasing the collar all the way along. If you follow this you will not need to use those useless collar stays.

If you are wearing a canvas collar shirt you may need to gently move some fullness away from each end of the collar. this will only apply if you are buying shirts generally in London as opposed to the fused shirts.

See how you go. good luck with the Brendon method (almost patent pending) 

regards

Brendon

post #29 of 71

I would concur with the gentleman above. Doran and Doran are utterly brilliant, and Paul is one of natures gentlemen. 

 

Please dont get mugged by the likes of Crane Bros, who essentially peddle Rembrandt as their own and add a massive mark up.  If you want Rembrandt go to Smith and Caugheys and at least get it at a reasonable price.

 

You may sense I have had some bad experiences with the so called tailors, which cost me around 50% of the original price to get fixed.

 

You pay for quality

post #30 of 71

Hi Luddite

had a look at the cloth you chose today 1315 from the T F bunch. Yes 2 by 2 which is good, Milled finish which really means it is more of a winter suit. 310 g which you can wear in Auckland except for the hottest month or 2.

I'm glad this Doran and Doran is natures gentleman as described by another post. 

If the suit is a bespoke suit here is how it all works, and whilst I won't be unkind there is a weakness here if am to be honest with you,

Made to Measure is no training ground for Bespoke.....especially at Crane Brothers. I was part of a Tv prog recently on TV7, I felt it turned out to be an infomercial for Crane Bro's and despite being reticent in taking part I did, cutting to the chase they had a fellow from Crane bro's measuring the presenter and it was very apparent that he knew little about tailoring as he ticked the boxes on the Made to Measure form. Still it was not as priceless as Murray Crane the so called tailor( according to several articles) admitted that he was not one , that he could not sew a suit! The interviewer asked if he felt like a bit of a fraud, the reply was approx  " why should I when I can get others to do this" The others being Rembrandt suits. Anyway as this very nice fellow from Crane bro's and the presenter walk down the street you can see in my opinion, the disaster of what a MTM suit is. The biggest giveaway is the tie showing from beneath the jacket, a sure sign of a poorly fitted jacket. The button position was also too high to be very useful.

Continuing with MTM as no training ground for Bespoke. The important part of bespoke is the taking of the measurements. This should always be done by the cutter.....the person who will cut the suit. This is the fitting expert, this is then bundled and sent to the tailor. I would be interested to know where the nice chap from Doran and Doran was trained that is where the substance is. If it is only at Crane Bro and something like AUT I would not respect that as training for Bespoke, I'm glad people think he is brilliant, but you can find enough out there who think M Crane is a great Tailor, so bringing facts to the table is important for me as I have heard a lot of self PR in this industry and very little of it holds water.

In finishing luddite, reasonably good cloth choice of 120's and cashmere and a reliable weight. The front edge ( where the buttons are) of your suit should fall straight up and down on the coat. A good cutter will establish this during the fitting process in a bespoke suit.

Today I was buying soap in the downtown and on the wall was a sign advertising " bespoke homeopathy aromatherapy". I will add this to the list. Bespoke has many meanings for many people. It is after all just a word

Brendon

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