Originally Posted by Svenn
Could someone post additional pics of jackets with full, heavy structured chest pieces and those without so the ignorant of us can tell the difference? I want to know what you mean by slouchy/rumpled. thanks
It's not always easy to tell.
The fact is, while Sator knows a great deal about tailoring and has a lot of valuable information to convey, for the last year or so he has had an axe to grind, which frequently causes him to leave out relevant information, mistate facts, and make speculation based on no evidence beyond his own preferences. An example of the latter would be his claim that soft tailoring was introduced as a cheat by houses that didn't want to work hard.
As to your specific question, soft does not necessarily equal rumpled or slouchy. One hallmark of soft tailoring is the "drape" effect of excess cloth in the chest near the armscye, but at most what one should see from that is a subtle verticle ripple on either side of the chest. The rest of the coat should hang very cleanly. Indeed, this is why it is considered harder
in certain respects to make a soft coat than a structured coat. When a coat has a lot of padding and a hard canvass, it is easier to use those underlying guts to make the cloth do what you want it to do. Cloth is much more likely to appear smooth on the wearer when it is backed up and smoothed out by a stiff canvas. With little padding and a soft canvas, gravity does all the work, which means that the fit and especially the balance have to be very precise.
Here is an example. Can you tell just by looking whether the canvas is soft or hard?