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A&S - Page 105

post #1561 of 1570
10/25/11 at 8:03pm
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Edited by F. Corbera - 10/26/11 at 4:38am
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post #1562 of 1570
10/25/11 at 8:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

Of course I'm speaking to you.
Your clue is interesting, but we would have to include everyone who utters a gerund.
The coat reference is G4701. Now stop giving me a hard time ... Piobaire has done plenty of that today.

If you are going to continue, please give me time to get a drink ... or rather another drink.
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post #1563 of 1570
10/25/11 at 8:08pm
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Edited by F. Corbera - 10/26/11 at 4:37am
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post #1564 of 1570
10/25/11 at 8:14pm
I can say this. John measured and handled all the fittings. All my communications were with John. Even my one repremand* was administered by John.

* Happened the time I arrived to discover someone had told him that I'd given them permission to photograph my clothing ... on premisis. To this day I have no idea who that was.

As for using A&S, I haven't been back since the double breasted made up in 'Manton's Cloth.' Hint: 30642
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

If we're lucky, the quality of service at the RTW operation will equal that of the bespoke operation.
It's an exciting time.
I'm waiting with bated breath. Then again, we had prawns tonight ... so perhaps that should be baited breath.
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post #1565 of 1570
10/25/11 at 8:23pm
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Edited by F. Corbera - 10/26/11 at 4:37am
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post #1566 of 1570
10/25/11 at 9:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by RSS View Post

Hint: 30642.

I will reply once I whip out my Enigma.

11.5 oz Lesser dark blue flannel with a grey windowpane?
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post #1567 of 1570
10/25/11 at 9:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by poorsod View Post

11.5 oz Lesser dark blue flannel with a grey windowpane?
BINGO! But rather than grey ... I just say 'chalky windowpane.'
Edited by RSS - 10/26/11 at 3:24am
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post #1568 of 1570
10/26/11 at 7:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post

I've had occasion to wear my jacket a lot the past couple of days. While it still suffers from the issues discussed at length above, I have to say, there is something to Mr. H's admonition that the coat has be worn before you really know how it fits. It does "settle" and conform with wear. It's changed considerably. The non-parallel stripes are still an issue, of course, and the left sleeve is still funky in back but in terms of the waist, it still looks tight but does not feel tight. It's super comfortable and I no longer "feel" my wallet in the breast pocket, which is nice.
The shoulders are totally conforming and breaking down, much earlier than I have experienced with other tailors.
So, jury still out but it's improving, though of course "settling" is not going to fix various other issues.

Interesting to hear about the softening as I can tell that my recent Steed jacket is doing the same thing. It's borderline a touch snug in parts of the shoulder/armhole areas, but by the end of the day it seems to have molded to my body. Hopefully soon it will feel that way first thing in the morning as well. I look forward to following its development. The garments I've had made in Hong Kong don't seem to mold as much (granted they fit great right from the beginning so no worries there).
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post #1569 of 1570
11/5/11 at 9:40am
Graydon Carter, editor of Vanity Fair uses A&S.
Quote:
(..)Mr. Carter, who edited the book with Cullen Murphy, noted that the tradition of bespoke tailoring has been discovered by a new generation that is far more fashion obsessed than when he was in his 30s and bought a tweed jacket and a nailhead double-breasted suit at Anderson & Sheppard. “As you get older, good tailoring can correct a lot of ills,” he said. “It can take 10 pounds off.”

Is that so?

“Good tailoring, and Spanx,” he said.

http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/10/28/cut-from-the-same-cloth/

More pictures: http://www.zimbio.com/Graydon+Carter/pictures/pro

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aish-jennifer-lopez-benecio-del-toro-at-gucci-vanity-fair-bash-21.jpg
Edited by DutchDaedalus - 11/5/11 at 10:12am
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post #1570 of 1570
11/9/11 at 6:44pm
As far back as the eary sixties I've heard of 3-4 month setting time for the coat to settle into shape and then needs a one time "Tune Up". So that is nothing new, and goes way back further than that, because he was an old tailor here in the North West US. Thomas Mahon wrote about the waiting period, too, saying the cloth is fluid (not the first time I heard that, either). Those who use it for an excuse for bad tailoring should be avoided. After a real "Tune Up" the problems should be gone, otherwise they never finished firtting the garment before they let it out the door.
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