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A&S - Page 83

post #1231 of 1570
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post
This is the first thing I'm making for him- I'll keep that in mind if we go any further with this.

You are a very discreet tailor.




- B
post #1232 of 1570
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
You are a very discreet tailor.




- B

I used to be. Things have had to change.
post #1233 of 1570
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post
I used to be. Things have had to change.
Have you moved out of the RTW buisness?
post #1234 of 1570
Quote:
Originally Posted by George View Post
Have you moved out of the RTW buisness?

I'm moving to the US and had to provide certain types of evidence to support the visa petition, and will have to do so again when I apply for a green card. USCIS does not believe in discretion.
post #1235 of 1570
Quote:
Originally Posted by RSS View Post
^^^Of the A&S coats in that photo ...the early ones (those cut by Mr. Harvey) are matched best ... the latest* is matched fairly well ... those in between are the offending pieces.

I wonder why, if they had a proven pattern for you which they presumably kept on file, they did not go back to this pattern and instead started from scratch with these somewhat less-than-stellar results?
post #1236 of 1570
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post
I wonder why, if they had a proven pattern for you which they presumably kept on file, they did not go back to this pattern and instead started from scratch with these somewhat less-than-stellar results?
I was unaware that sleeve matching had all that much to do with the pattern. I've always thought sleeve matching would be more related to how the pattern was laid on the cloth when cutting.

Cutters at A&S have included C, E, & G. I have no idea who E & G are. C was Colin. There may have been others after Colin ... but I don't have access to all my coats at the moment.

Interestingly the worse offender (in my opinion) ... the second from the right (follow the blue check line) ... has a poor match from body to sleeve (especially on the horizontal) ... but the sleeve to body difference is same at both sides. Of course I suppose that is to be expected.
post #1237 of 1570
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post
I wonder why, if they had a proven pattern for you which they presumably kept on file, they did not go back to this pattern and instead started from scratch with these somewhat less-than-stellar results?

Jeffery, can you do a post on how to pattern match between the arms and body of a suit? It looks like a nightmare to get correct while still maintaining fit.
post #1238 of 1570
Quote:
Originally Posted by RSS View Post
I was unaware that sleeve matching had anything to do with the pattern. I've always thought sleeve matching would be more related to how the pattern was laid on the cloth when cutting.

Interestingly the worse offender (in my opinion) ... back to edit after I look at the picture.

It's both, really. You lay the sleeve a certain way on the cloth to get it to match the front. If the sleeve then needs to be rotated to get the pitch right, the plaid won't match, so, ideally, once you get a sleeve that fits right, you would transfer certain balance marks to guide you in placement of it on the cloth. If they had a pattern that fit and that had the requisite marks, then subsequent sleeves would also match (and fit). So either they disregarded the previous pattern or had a REALLY lousy cutter. It's more likely the former.
post #1239 of 1570
Quote:
Originally Posted by RSS View Post
I was unaware that sleeve matching had anything to do with the pattern. I've always thought sleeve matching would be more related to how the pattern was laid on the cloth when cutting.

It is, but if they have to make changes during fitting to the pitch or sleeve-cap it can throw off the matching; if they have a proven pattern then these changes after cutting shouldn't be necessary.
post #1240 of 1570
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post
Jeffery, can you do a post on how to pattern match between the arms and body of a suit? It looks like a nightmare to get correct while still maintaining fit.
It's highly technical and I wouldn't want to bore people with the technicalities, but once you have a pattern that fits, it's pretty basic to get it to match the body. If I were doing a garment for a new client and he chose a check, I would do a muslin or scrap cloth sleeve first to get the fit right before cutting the sleeve, to avoid some of the problems we've seen lately. The slightly separate issue of whether it matches all the way up the armhole , or just partly up from the breastline as we see on a lot of lesser RTW, comes down to ease of construction and the skill of the pattern maker- sleeves that match all the way up are more susceptible to messiness on the hanger (and hanger appeal is important to many retailers) so some makers opt for something that is easier to produce over something that matches nicely. EDIT- if you are into technicalities, see the following diagrams which I had forgotten about (I can't direct link to Flickr anymore, sorry) The shape of the front notch area of the sleeve has to be balanced to the shape of the armhole http://www.flickr.com/photos/21977945@N02/317 The angle of the mid portion of the sleeve is critical to good matching- the SEAM line line must be measured and pivoted adding sufficient ease between the plaid lines, in this case 3/16" http://www.flickr.com/photos/21977945@N02/3172426764/ Which will allow to develop the shape of the cap. http://www.flickr.com/photos/21977945@N02/3172426586/ Obviously, changing the angle of the armhole or the width of the shoulder will require a change to sleeve pattern to maintain the match.
post #1241 of 1570
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post
It's highly technical and I wouldn't want to bore people with the technicalities, but once you have a pattern that fits, it's pretty basic to get it to match the body. If I were doing a garment for a new client and he chose a check, I would do a muslin or scrap cloth sleeve first to get the fit right before cutting the sleeve, to avoid some of the problems we've seen lately. The slightly separate issue of whether it matches all the way up the armhole , or just partly up from the breastline as we see on a lot of lesser RTW, comes down to ease of construction and the skill of the pattern maker- sleeves that match all the way up are more susceptible to messiness on the hanger (and hanger appeal is important to many retailers) so some makers opt for something that is easier to produce over something that matches nicely.

Interesting. Didn't think of that.
post #1242 of 1570
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post
Interesting. Didn't think of that.

There are also a lot of pattern makers who don't know how to adjust their sleeve pattern when they adjust the shape of the armhole, which throws things off as well.
post #1243 of 1570
The proof that it is possible to make a drape coat for Manton that fits (I changed the picture to black and white and reversed it):




post #1244 of 1570
Quote:
Originally Posted by tailorgod View Post
The proof that it is possible to make a drape coat for Manton that fits (I changed the picture to black and white and reversed it):





+1
post #1245 of 1570
Quote:
Originally Posted by tailorgod View Post
The proof that it is possible to make a drape coat for Manton that fits (I changed the picture to black and white and reversed it):





Great looking suit...
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