Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH
Jeffery, can you do a post on how to pattern match between the arms and body of a suit? It looks like a nightmare to get correct while still maintaining fit.
It's highly technical and I wouldn't want to bore people with the technicalities, but once you have a pattern that fits, it's pretty basic to get it to match the body. If I were doing a garment for a new client and he chose a check, I would do a muslin or scrap cloth sleeve first to get the fit right before cutting the sleeve, to avoid some of the problems we've seen lately. The slightly separate issue of whether it matches all the way up the armhole , or just partly up from the breastline as we see on a lot of lesser RTW, comes down to ease of construction and the skill of the pattern maker- sleeves that match all the way up are more susceptible to messiness on the hanger (and hanger appeal is important to many retailers) so some makers opt for something that is easier to produce over something that matches nicely. EDIT- if you are into technicalities, see the following diagrams which I had forgotten about (I can't direct link to Flickr anymore, sorry) The shape of the front notch area of the sleeve has to be balanced to the shape of the armhole http://www.flickr.com/photos/21977945@N02/317
The angle of the mid portion of the sleeve is critical to good matching- the SEAM line line must be measured and pivoted adding sufficient ease between the plaid lines, in this case 3/16" http://www.flickr.com/photos/21977945@N02/3172426764/
Which will allow to develop the shape of the cap. http://www.flickr.com/photos/21977945@N02/3172426586/
Obviously, changing the angle of the armhole or the width of the shoulder will require a change to sleeve pattern to maintain the match.